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So I sold my old 147 2.0 TS and waiting to get delivery of my MA135 in just over a week from now. I am terribly excited, as I have the Alfa Red Distinctive, 17 Sport alloys and red and black interior.

I have read some topics on running in, and I am almost certain that the first few 20 miles after getting her out of the showroom I'll give her some serious beans on some sloped national roads that I have close by. I am reluctant to do a gentle run in, especially after my terrifying oil burning former 2.0 engine

Anyone else here followed that school of thought as in rag her for first few dozen miles?


Cheers
 

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As far as I was aware, new cars didn't need running in - that was done at the factory when the engine was bench tested? Take the advise of ur dealer maybe? I would take it easy for the first 100mile and then drive as normal - maybe not raging her neckout till a few thousands miles have past, each to their own?!

Congrats on ur purchase, show us some pictures when you have collected her :)
 

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I ran mine in with a degree of mechanical sympathy and it hasn't had the oil topped up yet and its done 20000 kms in 9 months
 
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I ragged my QV from new, plenty of revs, varied speeds. It's mostly the tyres & brakes etc that you need to let bed-in. Not using any oil 6k miles on it.
 
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My QV has been driven with gusto since I bought it but I rarely rag it, I let the torque do the work. Mine hasn't used any oil in just under 10k miles unlike Mrs C's 3 month old Fiesta.
 

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My dealer told me not to be careful and just drive it normally apparently the engine automatically remaps after 1000 miles and you should see an improvement in performance. We'll see soon enough I'm on 850 now, I'll keep you posted :)
 

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You still need to run a vehicle in. It's budget manufacturers who have started this myth car's don't need run in. My dealer said to take it easy for the first 2000 miles for my Cloverleaf...
 

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The main thing is to vary the load and use a variety of rpm and throttle settings.

Personally I would stay off anything more than 1/4 throttle (which is actually 1/2 maximum throttle by the time your un-linear electric throttle hands it over to the manifold) for the first 500 miles and limit myself to 3000 rpm.

After that... use more gas but stay below 4000 rpm until you've reached 1000 miles.. then only increase the rpm in increments... nipping into the next 500 revs for a few seconds at a time.. but for longer periods as the miles increase.

Don't go onto the motorway for 3 laps of the M25 and think that's fine.. you need to work the rings in the bore or it'll glaze. Glazing is what makes your rings leak. Labouring the engine (big throttle, too high gear/low revs) is less good than more revs and a light, almost zero throttle.

When it's brand brand new, do several short trips rather than a trans-continental raid in one trip. If you allow the engine to cool down every so often, that will prevent glazing too.

If you love your donkey/have a fetish for it.. then change the oil and filter after 500 miles. That's when most of the swarf from the build and running-in can be flushed out and it's the best thing you can do for your engine. DIY or £90 by any sensible mechanic. Use the proper recommended oil (and stick to semi-synthetic while you continue to run in)

By the time you get to 3000 miles then it should no longer be possible to influence the state of the rings by your driving style.. but cars do still continue to loosen up, past 8 or even 10,000 miles.. so they're obviously still tight.

Remember that your old oil burner might have been leaking oil through knackered valve guides. When you run-in you're not just running in the pistons and rings... everything else (including the valves and guides) needs to settle in and the easier time you give it, the happier everything will be and the more oil will stay where it's supposed to.


Ralf S.
 

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My dealer told me not to be careful and just drive it normally apparently the engine automatically remaps after 1000 miles and you should see an improvement in performance. We'll see soon enough I'm on 850 now, I'll keep you posted :)

Your dealer is telling porkies - you've got 170bhp from the start :thumbs:
 

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I spoke to the head tech at my dealer (and have spoken to other dealers when purchasing other cars):

1 - Drive it fairly carefully, not revving too highly.

2 - The consensus is even though you should be driving carefully, it will help the engine loosen up and release all the power if you floor it (red-line) two or three times in that period, but obviously make sure you don't keep it at high revs.

3 - The engines need time to loosen up. After about 3-4000 miles, the engine will be looser and so will also be more powerful. This is just how engines work, they become more powerful and more economical after they've been given time to open up.

Very, very similar advice was given to my brother for his Golf GTi and TT-S.
 

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Well I'm now on 1070 miles. There certainly isn't any big difference but it does feel like I'm getting smoother power delivery at low revs in 'N'. I know it will have loosened up a bit but I suspect it's more that my driving style has adapted to it now, otherwise it feels pretty much the same. Hopefully I'll see the fuel consumption start to creep up a bit though, I'm currently getting around 33mpg on my 12 mile commute to work - mostly town driving with an average speed of 20mph (according to the computer) and driving fairly conservatively
 

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Your dealer is telling porkies - you've got 170bhp from the start
Dealer is not telling porkies. He does have all the bhp from the start, but the engine runin periode is the first 1500 kilometres (sorry but I always forget how to convert to miles). No need to be extremely rough or extremely careful. Just drive it casually with a bit of speedy driving when traffic density allows it. It's not about sealing off horsepowers, it's about smoothing the powerdelivery.
 

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Dealer is not telling porkies. He does have all the bhp from the start, but the engine runin periode is the first 1500 kilometres (sorry but I always forget how to convert to miles). No need to be extremely rough or extremely careful. Just drive it casually with a bit of speedy driving when traffic density allows it. It's not about sealing off horsepowers, it's about smoothing the powerdelivery.
LoL - so there is 170bhp from the start? Like i said? :rolleyes: 170bhp is 170bhp
 
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Your dealer is telling porkies - you've got 170bhp from the start :thumbs:
My dealer also told me that though, so is that two dealers telling porkies?

I was told remapping occurs at 1,000 and 2,000 miles and my dealer advised me to not turn on Dynamic mode until the engine is at 90C and don't rev it hard for the first 500 miles.

I'm on 1100 miles now and have only taken it over half revs a few times.
 

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My dealer also told me that though, so is that two dealers telling porkies?

I was told remapping occurs at 1,000 and 2,000 miles and my dealer advised me to not turn on Dynamic mode until the engine is at 90C and don't rev it hard for the first 500 miles.

I'm on 1100 miles now and have only taken it over half revs a few times.
Fair play - my dealer told me it was not the case

I don't doubt that the mapping adjusts after a given time to the users driving style (as most modern cars do) but I'd still say you've got full BHP from the start. It would be difficult to sell a car going "yeah, it's not as quick as it should be but in 1000miles it will be just fine!".

As a reference there isn't any difference i can tell from having driven a QV with 25 miles on the clock and mine with 7000 miles on it :)
 
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I suppose the only way to be sure is to have it tested on a rolling road.

I've never heard of any other car doing dynamic remapping for the running in period, and it's not in the manual, but the dealer said it so I've got nothing else to go on.

I think we're all agreed though that it's best to not go into Dynamic mode with a cold engine?
 

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Yep - I personally always drive in D mode as soon as the car is turned on but i don't give it the beans until it's warmed up :p :thumbs:
 

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Yep - I personally always drive in D mode as soon as the car is turned on but i don't give it the beans until it's warmed up :p :thumbs:
Same here in my 1.3JTDM-2, the accellerator response is hopeless in N mode :rolleyes:

Back in the early nineties I made the mistake of gently running-in my new Citroen
AX Diesel- which resulted in glazed cylinder bores and high oil thirst :rant:

So I've just driven my Mito normally from new, and it's running fine at 12000 miles :)



Chris
 
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