[goldmax]

Picked up the new Veloce at the weekend and really impressed, drives nice, comfortable and certainly stands out from the crowd. Around here in Mid Lincs you don't see too many so quite exclusive!

Been driving the car as normal, although have tried out the power a few times but only within the TCT range, never gone near redline, otherwise kept the car in Normal. Is the run in really worth it, I have read so many conflicting things about it, some say drive slow some say drive like you've stolen it....anyhow, I'll continue to use a fair breadth of the rev counter but not go mental. Also, I may have a oil change done midway to the first service, is this wise?

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

most importantly, use the whole rev range as soon as the engine is warm. So switch to D as soon as the needle hits 90°C.

What's the oil change interval now? I always change every 10k or thereabouts, but I keep the normal filter change interval.

 

[Richard H]

Just let it warm up and then drive as normal

 

[Cfm78910]

Congratulations, excellent choice! I took things easy for the first 700 miles or so, I still think it's the best way but others will disagree. If you can take it for an additional oil and filter change halfway between services. Your turbo will thank you and you are highly unlikely to ever have problems if you do. The 1750 takes a long time to run in properly, I noticed pleasant changes around the 7000 mile mark.

 

[epsonix]

Picked up the new Veloce at the weekend and really impressed, drives nice, comfortable and certainly stands out from the crowd. Around here in Mid Lincs you don't see too many so quite exclusive!

Been driving the car as normal, although have tried out the power a few times but only within the TCT range, never gone near redline, otherwise kept the car in Normal. Is the run in really worth it, I have read so many conflicting things about it, some say drive slow some say drive like you've stolen it....anyhow, I'll continue to use a fair breadth of the rev counter but not go mental. Also, I may have a oil change done midway to the first service, is this wise?

Congratulations. Yeah, like others say, drive normally until you reach 90C on the dash (what on Giulietta (at least all 1.4) is shown when coolant on thermostat reaches 70C and still up to mid 90s I think).
Probably you anyway did most of break-in already, but I think you did it OK. Some say to run slowly, but that uses low rpms, and is not good (actually very bad) for engine, especially one which is during break-in phase. There are opinons that 90% of burn in happens within first 20-30 miles, and once engine is hot you should ride the car like if you stolen it, and important to also use engine to slow down from high rpms. Not sure about that method, for me it seems bit extreme. I read it, but I went for compromise both on my Honda NC750X bike (low rpm engine, redline at 6.5krpm) and wife's Giulietta 1.4TB (other cars I had 2nd hand). I drove normally trying not to exceed 3.5krpm before engine was hot, and then allowed myself for 4, ocassionally 5krpm for first 500km. I didn't use low rpms at load (say below 2krpm at all). After that 500km I allowed bit more rpms, and at 1kkm I went to redline from time to time. I used engine to slow down often (dynamic drive forces this anyway).
On motorbike I had mandatory 1kkm service with oil change, I did it at 900km. On Giulietta I changed oil after 5kkm (1 year, car not used that much), but if I was doing it again, I would probably change also after first 1-2kkm.
Afer 2 years G shown 127BHP on dyno, and went into 147BHP @ RON98 after ECU mod (mod was not extreme, there was still a lot of headroom). Runs nicely, so I'm happy.

Regaring oil changes in general. Do it every 10kkm(6kmiles) if you drive on the city mainly, or 15k/9kmiles if you do motorways only. Not less often than once a year. It is important for 1.75 turbine mainly (on 1.4 MA for MA module), but in general applies to every modern & complicated engine like ones with turbo- all service intervals given in instruction manuals are for falsing people that it is OK, lowering theoretical costs of usage, but then after 100kkm engine often is already used or with problems with plenty of deposits of old oil etc. Manufacturers are happy, that happens after warranty, so people pay more for service in a few years time (e.g. on TBI turbo failures), and then scrap your car earlier, and car business is doing well.

 

[mazor]

hmm, I too have a new run out brand new GQV. I guess using dynamic mode through it's full rev range would be recommended after warm up to 90?

 

[Richard H]

Just drive it normally, don't think about it.

Don't let the engine labour, don't thrash it when cold.

 

[goldmax]

Congratulations. Yeah, like others say, drive normally until you reach 90C on the dash (what on Giulietta (at least all 1.4) is shown when coolant on thermostat reaches 70C and still up to mid 90s I think).
Probably you anyway did most of break-in already, but I think you did it OK. Some say to run slowly, but that uses low rpms, and is not good (actually very bad) for engine, especially one which is during break-in phase. There are opinons that 90% of burn in happens within first 20-30 miles, and once engine is hot you should ride the car like if you stolen it, and important to also use engine to slow down from high rpms. Not sure about that method, for me it seems bit extreme. I read it, but I went for compromise both on my Honda NC750X bike (low rpm engine, redline at 6.5krpm) and wife's Giulietta 1.4TB (other cars I had 2nd hand). I drove normally trying not to exceed 3.5krpm before engine was hot, and then allowed myself for 4, ocassionally 5krpm for first 500km. I didn't use low rpms at load (say below 2krpm at all). After that 500km I allowed bit more rpms, and at 1kkm I went to redline from time to time. I used engine to slow down often (dynamic drive forces this anyway).
On motorbike I had mandatory 1kkm service with oil change, I did it at 900km. On Giulietta I changed oil after 5kkm (1 year, car not used that much), but if I was doing it again, I would probably change also after first 1-2kkm.
Afer 2 years G shown 127BHP on dyno, and went into 147BHP @ RON98 after ECU mod (mod was not extreme, there was still a lot of headroom). Runs nicely, so I'm happy.

Regaring oil changes in general. Do it every 10kkm(6kmiles) if you drive on the city mainly, or 15k/9kmiles if you do motorways only. Not less often than once a year. It is important for 1.75 turbine mainly (on 1.4 MA for MA module), but in general applies to every modern & complicated engine like ones with turbo- all service intervals given in instruction manuals are for falsing people that it is OK, lowering theoretical costs of usage, but then after 100kkm engine often is already used or with problems with plenty of deposits of old oil etc. Manufacturers are happy, that happens after warranty, so people pay more for service in a few years time (e.g. on TBI turbo failures), and then scrap your car earlier, and car business is doing well.

Thanks for the in depth reply epsonix, how will we ever know the best way to break a car in? All I know is I bet the people on these lease deals who hand the car back after a year haven't taken it steady, when you look at the amount of nearly new cars out there at dealers makes you wonder how they were treated during their first few k of miles. And if it was such an important thing I'm sure there would be huge stickers on your dash saying drive steady etc, and the dealer would make a point of telling you too.

Like most say here I have driven as normal, and given it some oomph a few times and with the tct you can't over rev or go near redline anyway. Do you think its ok to take it to my local small garage for an oil change? Is it best I buy the oil and give it to him so I know he uses the correct stuff (selenia sport power) ?

 

[goldmax]

In the manual it says Dynamic mode is automatically disabled in the first kilometres in order to guarantee correct settling of the mechanical parts, are they saying that's when most of the bedding-in is done? during the first few miles?

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

it doesn't say that in my manual, must be something new....

 

[goldmax]

it doesn't say that in my manual, must be something new....

In my manual it's on page 32

 

[goldmax]

Took the Veloce out for a drive yesterday, was the first time I felt part of it, like i wasn't just a passenger, so easy to drive now (it's my first auto, never driven one before 'till last weekend, then i had to negotiate Derby and Nottingham). Fuel consumption seems quite good considering its been driven in various revs and speeds. I think about 350 miles on £47 or thereabouts, will do a more detailed check soon.

My wipers don't start when it rains(in auto position), but once I've turned them on they seem to work auto then, is this normal?

 

[cue2]

The wipers need an initial manual use for a safety reason; imagine you were to start scraping ice off the screen and the wipers were activated!

 

[goldmax]

The wipers need an initial manual use for a safety reason; imagine you were to start scraping ice off the screen and the wipers were activated!

That explains it, and there I was driving with rain on the screen hoping it would start wiping! Also, not sure if I have auto lights on mine, how do I find out?

 

[cue2]

There is setting on the light stalk for "Auto".

 

[symon]

Peronally, if it was my new car I would change the oil and filter after the first 1000 miles, and then every 10,000 miles after.

I think an early filter change is very important, because of any stray metal particles worn off the surfaces in the initial bedding in.

And I would drive it fairly normally, but avoid low speeds in high gears etc (I don't drive like than anyway)

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

New oil filters don't catch particles smaller than 20µm. Alas particles over 1µm could possibly do damage in the bearings. As the filters age and get loaded, they start to catch smaller particles.

Wanna see an actual particle count on new oil? it's not unusual to dump oil that's actually cleaner than what you're putting in....

 

[cue2]

New oil filters don't catch particles smaller than 20µm. Alas particles over 1µm could possibly do damage in the bearings. As the filters age and get loaded, they start to catch smaller particles.

Wanna see an actual particle count on new oil? it's not unusual to dump oil that's actually cleaner than what you're putting in....

Interesting. Does this suggest it's better to leave the oil and filter initially?
Also, I wonder about the oil change where the plug is not removed actually causing damage ?

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

well, there's some studies that have been suggesting:

1) to leave oil filters longer, ie 2 terms in stead of 1. we already have a long oci so wouldn't suggest that but if you change at half the interval I'd suggest not changing the filter. For the diesels at least it's very easy to inspect them, don't know if the petrols use a cartridge or spin-on?

2) Leave a bit of used oil in the sump. Used (but not worn out completely) oil contains a lot of partially reacted anti-wear additives, and these are often more sensitive and powerful in preventing wear.

Trouble with leaving the plug and sucking out a JTDM as used in the G is that you leave a LOT of used oil in... over 20% really.

Now, you could ideally combine the above and do something like this:
11k: drain and fill (about 0.5l is left in the oil filter and above it)
22k: drain and fill (again, 0.5 l is left)
25k: change the filter which has now filtered the last oil you've put in... you might need to add some oil after this.
33k: start from the top...

particle count from new mobil1 0w-40:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/akashafamily/Lube Stuff/37542143.Mobil10W40.jpg

notice the size of the particles aswell.

and a better quality example:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/akashafamily/Lube Stuff/37245297.JohnDeere10W30.jpg

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

also, oil in a new car most likely isn't the same as you buy at the dealer. There won't be any friction modifiers in the break-in oil as they prevent proper break in.

If you want to change the oil very early, make sure you don't use an energy conserving oil. I would suggest a proper break-in oil, or a motorcycle oil (wet clutch compatible, low on friction reducing chemistry).