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Discussion Starter #1
Just had a de-flapped one fitted, so my manifold is up for grabs if anyone wants it.

Removed from my 2007 GT Blackline with the 1.9 JTDm engine. Has been used for 80k miles, however EGR system was blanked at approx 40k miles.

Condition is generally good. Swirl flap mechanism was working correctly at the time of removal, and there are no signs of the flaps coming lose from the spindles yet. The spindle under flap 3 can easily be turned by hand, and all 4 flaps open and shut together nice and smoothly.

Vid of action - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ylps2KvYMQ

There is the normal light coating of black/carbon deposits on the internal surface, but certainly not severe. For the last 40k miles this car has been running up/down the motorway, so good conditions to minimize build up.

If anyone's interested in taking it, let me know - otherwise I'll return it to CDTI surgery as they offer a refund on returned mani's!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
CDTI Surgery are offering £40 for it as a return/refund, so make an offer if it's worth more than that to you! If not I'll post back to the Vauxhall gang!
 

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Re the MOT fail..

Well that is a worrying development...

Didn't know they had started looking for pre cats already....will have to make sure the undertray is on and that the heatshield is in place when I go..not due for 9 months but forwarned is forearmed ....

Glad there was nothing else to speak of.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re the MOT fail..

Well that is a worrying development...

Didn't know they had started looking for pre cats already....will have to make sure the undertray is on and that the heatshield is in place when I go..not due for 9 months but forwarned is forearmed ....

Glad there was nothing else to speak of.
Yea.. If that's the case then I'm probably the first of many to get caught by it!

Half thinking about coring out the original cat so it looks completely stock from outside... Gives majority of the benefit of the straight through pipe (albeit with a bit more pressure drop compared to the decat piece) but with none of the signs from outside..

Just need to find a large enough drill bit to chew through the matrix cleanly!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Easy to do a little turbo clean without it too!
(I think you showed me the pics of your old cat, when i asked the question)




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I hadn't even considered that..

Might give it a bit if a clean up when I get the downpipe off!

Gonna spend some time on the oil cooler unions too.. They're in alright shape at the moment, so will get their annual clean up and waxoyl coating!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mid week bump!

I'll be posting the mani back to CDTI on Saturday if no one's laid claim to it before then.

As for the new mani fitted, very happy with it :thumbup:
 

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Mid week bump!

I'll be posting the mani back to CDTI on Saturday if no one's laid claim to it before then.

As for the new mani fitted, very happy with it :thumbup:
New Mani you had fitted - is it an ally mani for ally mani swap? Was it the plastic mani originally fitted to yours and you switched to the ally mani? Seeing as you have had a deflapped mani fitted, rather than having the original one deflapped and fitted to your car, how does the new deflapped mani look - can you see the plugs and welds (albeit that it will be a neat job) or is it totally flush on top, like the CF3 manifold fitted to earlier GTs (up to 55, i think?).

Thanks in advance - reason for all the questions - selling wife's car, she can have my much newer BMW and I am seriously looking at another GT - depending on the age I go for, manifold, EGR, Turbo, Turbo pipes, oil cooler will all receive attention! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
My car came with the black plastic/metal composite mani originally, and the de-flapped unit I had fitted was the all aluminium - so yea I've stepped back a version.

As for how it looks, it looks alright I suppose.. They aren't exactly beautiful to begin with!

If you go looking, you can see the welded up ports from the top, although they are well hidden. The welds actually weren't all that neat on the CDTI surgery unit, quite lumpy on top but they do the job... Certainly haven't wasted time grinding them back flat with the rest of the inlet!

Although it had received a silver rattle can paint job which does help smarten it up a bit - best part is that it was spotlessly clean inside, where it really counts.

This is it as I received it, before fitting obviously:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One thing to watch out for is stripped threads.. The mani I received came with some of the EGR port threads in a pretty shoddy condition.

To their credit, CDTI surgery offered to replace it if I returned it, but as I was booked in at Autolusso to get it fitted the day after it turned up in the post that wasn't really an option for me... We discussed it and the best option was to send it along to Loz and let him sort it whilst fitting..

But Loz and the gang managed to get a longer bolt/stud to find some intact thread right at the bottom, so no extra repairs were needed in the end so everyone turned out happy :thumbup:

But something to be aware of at least!
 

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One thing to watch out for is stripped threads.. The mani I received came with some of the EGR port threads in a pretty shoddy condition.

To their credit, CDTI surgery offered to replace it if I returned it, but as I was booked in at Autolusso to get it fitted the day after it turned up in the post that wasn't really an option for me... We discussed it and the best option was to send it along to Loz and let him sort it whilst fitting..

But Loz and the gang managed to get a longer bolt/stud to find some intact thread right at the bottom, so no extra repairs were needed in the end so everyone turned out happy :thumbup:

But something to be aware of at least!
that's very pretty (genuinely)!

I have retained the old manifold from my previous GT in preparation for another GT, although at the time, I didn't know I would have another - must be fate!

Thread issues - much the same as the issue you can be presented with for the MAP sensor - sucks! however, a very good point and one I would definitely have overlooked!

Nice to know you can switch from the plastic manifold to the ally - didn't know that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice to know you can switch from the plastic manifold to the ally - didn't know that.
Yep!

The original swirl flap actuator is left attached to the wiring loom, and just tied up/secured out of the way... ECU still thinks everything is hunky-doory, and the swirl flap actuator is harmlessly turning itself!

I can't see any evidence of it from above, so all's good!
 

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One thing to watch out for is stripped threads.. The mani I received came with some of the EGR port threads in a pretty shoddy condition.

To their credit, CDTI surgery offered to replace it if I returned it, but as I was booked in at Autolusso to get it fitted the day after it turned up in the post that wasn't really an option for me... We discussed it and the best option was to send it along to Loz and let him sort it whilst fitting..

But Loz and the gang managed to get a longer bolt/stud to find some intact thread right at the bottom, so no extra repairs were needed in the end so everyone turned out happy :thumbup:

But something to be aware of at least!
The one on my wiesel was the same, the egr valve was held on by 2 bolts with about 3 turns of thread...

Fixed with some helicoils. My Dad keeps various sizes in stock, nothing to do with me being a gorilla, honest.
 

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In case anyone is thinking about de-flapping (and you must if you have metal flaps) it's not essential to change to an all-alloy manifold. The plastic version can be de-flapped very easily too. Doesn't even need welding, the spindle holes can be tapped for bolts Loctited in place. See http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...lean-how-anywhere-159-1-a-4.html#post14243601

The plastic manifold is actually a bit easier to remove and replace, since it comes apart in situ which makes it easier to remove the studs from the head. And keeping it means the actuator motor can stay where it is, mounted to the underneath.

The downside is that the plastic plenum is all one piece and more difficult to clean inside because of that, but oven cleaner does it eventually (the stuff in the orange box, comes with a large plastic bag - seal inside, shake often, leave overnight). Best not to use that on the metal stubs and EGR/throttle body mount like I did, as it stains the alloy dirty brown, so they then need painting.
 

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keeping it means the actuator motor can stay where it is, mounted to the underneath.

I think thats a bad idea. If that motor breaks, it will generate an error code and appears to restrict the engine revs. You would have to take the manifold off to get it. Mine is cable-tied near to the fuel filter
 

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As you like. Seems unlikely to break to me, since it has no load, but in any event taking the manifold off isn't a huge deal, it looks stock (which might matter someday during MOT as the War on Diesel intensifies), and I just don't like things dangling off cable ties. Which is also why I repaired the undertray fixings with Rivnuts. They're fine for cables, though :)
 

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As you like. Seems unlikely to break to me, since it has no load, but in any event taking the manifold off isn't a huge deal, it looks stock (which might matter someday during MOT as the War on Diesel intensifies), and I just don't like things dangling off cable ties. Which is also why I repaired the undertray fixings with Rivnuts. They're fine for cables, though :)

Mine broke!
 
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