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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I polished the GTV for the first time. I tell you, polishing with an electric polisher is no easier than doing it by hand!:eek: I tried my products as suggested by the sales people and the car most deffinitely is shinier. But the swirl marks are still there, only slightly less. I will need something more aggressive than the "Swirl-X" from Meguiars...

I was supposed to add a glaze as well, but the whole job on the GTV with only the swirl-x took me 5.5 hours from 13:30 to 19:00!:wow: When I'm done, I'm going to have shoulders like Arnold Swarzenegger!

Some pix:
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The panel beater could not adjust the bumper as his guys didn't understand the mechanism so I'll have to align it again at some point... On my way home, another big stone flew from a truck and hit the front bumper in exactly the same spot as the previous huge stone chip! Luckily it only left a dust mark:D

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/emcon1/AlfaOwner/191220112661.jpg
 

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This is an art. If you did it the 1st time its almost guaranteed you'll not bring out the full potential when you do it alone and unsupervised. We did the same for the S3 and GTi...our swirlmarks were removed but only for a month! Must be the products we used!

Its also very important to know the speeds and the pressure to apply to the polisher, also the correct pads! AND...after the buff when you've sealed (some say this is a waste...I tend to agree, a couple days after the polish a bird decided to drop some poo on it...the drive home to go and wash it off was useless...the bird poo was etched in the paint!!!) it with a microfibre is also important.

Here towards the end it can get tedious and you start cutting corners, rather take a brake and do it right, but the next time you do it you'll be a pro!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Corrie, I'm gentle on the corners. And the polish I'm using is very mild stuff. I will have to get something to remove the oxidised paint as this is the layer where the swirl marks are in.

Guili, that's why I took so long with it. I was doing it properly, but the "Swirl-X" is too mild. I have a Shield machine that makes getting the right pressures a breeze: The pad should rotate slowly in a random manner, and if it doesn;t, you're pushing to hard. The trick is knowing how much polish to apply.

Today's job will be an attempt at glazing. I do have the correct pads, however I was only using two types yesterday: Terry cloth fpr applying the polish, and the "wool" cloth (it's not wool, just called a "wool" cloth) for buffing. Today I will give the final polish with the foam pads.

Black cars are horrible to keep clean! After polishing the car ot started attracting dust immidiately (static?) and this morning it looks covered in dust!
 

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Ian, Swirl X is too mild. Try Megs Ultimate Compound.
Which Shield machine do you have? The cheap one or the new DA one like the Megs G220? If it's the cheap one you will never win, it does not have the power. Careful of the "wool" pad. It might be too harsh.

I only use my machine to polish (correct defects). I glaze and wax by hand and buff off by hand.

Black cars are a B*tch, ask Sarel.

To prevent static try washing the car after you have polished and waxed.
 

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A black GTV is so beautiful but after a while I couldn’t live with it and thanks to the old Fart scratching it I decided that Yellow was the way to go.
Yellow is the new black.
But each time I see a old pick of it in black I regret the color change for about 5seconds:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ian, Swirl X is too mild. Try Megs Ultimate Compound.
Which Shield machine do you have? The cheap one or the new DA one like the Megs G220? If it's the cheap one you will never win, it does not have the power. Careful of the "wool" pad. It might be too harsh.

I only use my machine to polish (correct defects). I glaze and wax by hand and buff off by hand.

Black cars are a B*tch, ask Sarel.

To prevent static try washing the car after you have polished and waxed.
Thanks Springbok. I'm using a Shield dual action polisher, but not the big angle-grinder 6 speed type job, the single speed unit. It does work well, and I think I'll also start polishing by hand because I've now learned that it's not much less effort with a machine!:(

I used the wool pad sparingly and only to buff off the polish. The speed of the machine is not very high so it is very gentle. I know about black cars... Mine is usually only clean for 1 hour after it's been cleaned!
 

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You need 2 products and 2 only IMO 1. Menzerna. This polish breaks down so u can't damage ur paint. I suggest a lake country white pad for this. 2. Colonite wax. If I tell u 2 capfuls will wax ur whole car. Goes on like an oil but dries like a wax. The freakiest **** u will ever see. Apply with a Meg's yellow sponge and take off with microfiber.


Warning. Do not use microfibers u buy in the shops. The cloth is non scratch but the stitching on the edges is not. I cut mine off.
 

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sorry HG! Don't agree, I'm a Meg's man, if u utilize the product properly, it's great, Ps Ian

using the wool pad was a mistake, wool pad should only be used with big machine, small random orbital machine should only be used with medium sponge pad, I think I am gonna post a thread for detailing, me and benzina sanded my 2600 down with 2000 Meg's wet paper and proceeded to cut with the big makita and wool pad, must say benzina is the man with that machine, I'm better with the g220 which we still gonna use to polish and then wax,with the solid black car try the following, next time u wash her, use Megs color x, it will bring the depth of color out and act as a wax layer, this is an easy one step to just get u started, effort vs result u will be very happy and your car will wash easier next time, for an older car in black(not saying she's old u know what IMean)u can literally do this every wash, it takes me around fifteen minutes to apply and buff off by hand, this should give u that just waxed look permanently, as for the swirling, honestly u probably induced more with the machine than u got out, u probably need to cut the whole car, the safest way to do that is to use Meg's diamond cut2.0 it's about a level 10 cutting compound(out of a max rating of 12) and IMPORTANTLY is a diminishing compound meaning that it will cut the first few passes and then diminish into a polishing compound as u continue to work it. This can be safely applied by a novice using the dual action polisher and a medium foam pad(please buy a Meg's pad, some pads are really crap and cause damage) also what most guys forget is this, prime your pad, meaning wet it with compound before u start, else dry pad plus paint equals damage. Doing this is quite safe, u won't burn through t,he paint at all, use any speed from 3 to max, and medium pressure, u will be surprised with the results, also remember once the paint has been cut, like with swirl x, u need to protect it with something like a wax, but as I said for that color, color X is absolutely perfect, if u don't believe me, check me 75 it's like glass!!!!
 
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Yes, that 75 of Frost has a flawless paint finish!
I have had good results from Autoglym Paint Restorer. It removed the swirl marks on the wifes Beemer very nicely. You use straight motions with this product, not circular motions usually used for polishing. And it is developed to be applied by hand, not machines. Follow up with normal Super Resin Polish or whatever.
 
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