[KaizerG]

I've created a list of things which I want to sort out on my Spider to get it sorted back to as near a pristine condition as possible.

The list:
1. Filler Cap release button sometimes does not work when pushed (solenoid?)
2. Door rubbers need to be replaced
3. Squeak where the dashboard meets the windscreen on the drivers side. Sounds like rubber on glass (NB – very irritating). occurs when body is flexing when turning on uneven ground
4. Drivers Door Window does not seal properly and get road noise (not serious as does not leak)
5. Hot air blows through vents at all times especially after a long drive
6. Brake Shudder (disk skim needed)
7. Fuel Gauge backlight not working at times (loose connection?)
8. Tick tick at cold start up which lasts for a few seconds (apparently tappets and need engine flush to remedy)
9. Tick tick when switching off car (sounds like the fan slowly decreasing in speed)


If anyone has any info or advice on any of the issues please let me know. Also good to hear if anyone else has had similar experience in some of these and how they got them sorted.

 

[Gertie]

I've created a list of things which I want to sort out on my Spider to get it sorted back to as near a pristine condition as possible.

The list:
5. Hot air blows through vents at all times especially after a long drive
6. Brake Shudder (disk skim needed)
8. Tick tick at cold start up which lasts for a few seconds (apparently tappets and need engine flush to remedy)
If anyone has any info or advice on any of the issues please let me know. Also good to hear if anyone else has had similar experience in some of these and how they got them sorted.

1,2,3,4,7,9 your prognosis is same as my guess.
5. Is your Aircon working at all? My condenser's kaput too...
6. I bought my car with terrible brake shudder from 120 hard braking - did a bed-in procedure and voila - sorted! (see below)
8. I'm wary of flush after I lost big-end bearing shortly after doing that once. :tut: I'd rather just live with it - it is not detrimental to engine - as you say - it lasts a few seconds.

Brake bed-in process:
Drive normally (to heat up car and brakes normally) to a quiet, straight road with no stop streets (preferably double lane).
Speed up normally to 80km/h and brake to 15km/h relatively firm. [NEVER STOP] Do 3 times total braking a bit firmer every time.
Speed up normally to 100km/h and brake to 15km/h relatively hard. [NEVER STOP] Do 3 times total braking a bit harder every time. By now you might feel some brake fade.
Speed up normally to 100km/h and brake to 15km/h very hard. [NEVER STOP] Do 3 times total braking a bit harder every time. By now you WILL feel brake fade - abort the process when brake fade is quite bad.
Cruise home (try to make it about 10km) using brakes sparingly. Park car (preferably only with gears / blocks) for at least 3 hours for proper cool down.

Brake usage tip:
Never jump on brakes - squeeze it firmer and firmer until required firmness (can be quick, but the essence is: be progressive)

HOT Brake tips:
1. Never press hard on HOT brakes when standing still - a spot of brake pad will deposit on disc forming a higher friction spot that will shudder under braking. Rather creep the last few meters at the traffic light / stop street - remedy is brake bed-in process.
2. [NEVER] wash / hose down HOT disc that will create micro cracks in disc and make spot hardening, thus changing wear characteristics, thus generate uneven disc surface and in turn shudder under braking - worse case the instantaneous cooling of the disc will warp the disc and will shudder from the onset and you might even feel it even when not braking - only remedy is replacement.

 

[KaizerG]

Thanks Gertie for the input!

5. The funny thing is that even when all vents are closed, aircon switched off, fan set to 0 etc. it still seems like hot air is blowing into the cabin? Did try put the aircon on and it didnt seem to make a difference so may be the condenser being bust, whats the cost? (I'll probably not fix and just drive with the hood down more )
6. Could you explain what a bed-in procedure is because my shudder is also when hard braking at higher speeds!
8. I'll take your advice then and live with it, not a major issue

 

[Gertie]

Thanks Gertie for the input!
5. Did try put the aircon on and it didnt seem to make a difference so may be the condenser being bust, whats the cost?
6. Could you explain what a bed-in procedure is because my shudder is also when hard braking at higher speeds!
8. I'll take your advice then and live with it, not a major issue

5. Any excuse to drive top down :thumbs: I got quoted R3500
6. Sorry man - I edit the other post - I have this habit of pressing the submit button - and then realizing I had more to say...
8. That was the advice I received from my machie when I had a tick-tick on my 146TS - sure you can change the cam followers - but why? What OIL are you using as there is that other thread with OIL war stories... And the followers work on oil pressure

 

[KaizerG]

Wow thanks Gertie for the in depth instructions. Going to have to now try find a quiet stretch of road where I can do this. Will give feedback once I've given it a go.

8. Oil: I currently use Castrol Edge Fully Synthetic. It seems this is fairly common issue after reading some threads. I'm going to take your advice and just live with it.

I've emailed Alan at Midlands Motors in PMB with the same list and asked him to quote on the work needed for each issue. I will then prioritise and start getting them done.

My first order is to get rid of that rubber squeek as it drives me nuts!

 

[turbonutters]

Make sure that the tick tick at startup isn’t the cam belt tensioner they tend to do that when not properly tensioned and it disappears when the motor heats up. If not looked at could result in a belt failure.

The hot air into the cabin is thanks to the heater matrix not shutting of properly I sit with the same thing in my GTV. Easy remedy will be putting a additional valve in the feed pipe this increase the cooling of the ac as well since the heater matrix can not preheat the system.

For the squeaking dash or windscreen fit a strut brace it will stiffen up the front end and alleviate the flex around the dash a bit.

 

[jzee786]

now i know why my gtv also has hot air coming through the vents and my ac not working either so i need a new condenser kaiser your spider looks tooo hot! hope you can sort out your lil niggles found out the ex owner of my car had big sound in the gtv removed it all coz im trying to find out why i have a petrol smell in the car after its parked for a while check rear shelf petrol pump under seats (or on top of seats) still dont kno what it is will keep checkin!

 

[turbonutters]

now i know why my gtv also has hot air coming through the vents and my ac not working either so i need a new condenser kaiser your spider looks tooo hot! hope you can sort out your lil niggles found out the ex owner of my car had big sound in the gtv removed it all coz im trying to find out why i have a petrol smell in the car after its parked for a while check rear shelf petrol pump under seats (or on top of seats) still dont kno what it is will keep checkin!

Most probably the FPR that form part of the fuel pump assembly that cracked it happens.
Remove rear seat, remove the black cover behind it and check for fuel on top of the white insert that screw into the top of the fuel tank.

 

[jzee786]

@ turbo nutters did exactly that no fuel anywer opened the gold(brass) metal cover just below battery behind rear seat tightened all bolts just cannot seem to find the petrol smell source any other possibilites? could it possibly be my fuel pump? three sec mechanical noise from the rear when i start her up(hoping nothing serious)

 

[corriedw]

Where does the breather go?

 

[turbonutters]

@ turbo nutters did exactly that no fuel anywer opened the gold(brass) metal cover just below battery behind rear seat tightened all bolts just cannot seem to find the petrol smell source any other possibilites? could it possibly be my fuel pump? three sec mechanical noise from the rear when i start her up(hoping nothing serious)

Fuel pump, filter and FPR are in the tank.
In the boot there’s a carbon canister mounted next to the battery make sure all the pipes are connected.
It could also be the filler pipe and the gasket around it if the attendant spilled fuel while filling it could have entered the cabin.
When you removed the seat is the sound proving beneath it wet?

 

[stefaans]

When I was at Reef Scrapyard about a month ago, they had 2 Spiders that was virtually complete.... I'm pretty sure you'll find almost everything you need there.

 

[turbonutters]

Where does the breather go?

All the way to the right front wing with a blue pipe.:thumbs:

 

[jzee786]

nutters no fuel anywer no wet noise jus a cluncky mechanical pump like noise but it goes away after 3 secs please pm your number to me or email me.

 

[KaizerG]

When I was at Reef Scrapyard about a month ago, they had 2 Spiders that was virtually complete.... I'm pretty sure you'll find almost everything you need there.

I'll give them a call, thanks!