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Yes. The lower wishbone bolt faff Is much easier with the driveshaft out. If the upper arms are old, do them as well....
 

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Yes. The lower wishbone bolt faff Is much easier with the driveshaft out. If the upper arms are old, do them as well....
the uppers are a bit 'clonky'. to be fair ro my tester, he has put them down as an advise but as the lower wishbone is being replaced, I may as well replace the upper while I am in there.

I feel that doing just one side is probably counter productive, based on the "if one side is f**ked, the other side won't be far behind" principle.

So, both upper wishbones, both lower wishbones and driveshaft boots on both sides. Bearing in mind that I changed the uppers on my 147, is that little lot a DIY task? Is the hub nut a impact gun task, or can it be done with breaker bar (& scaffold bar if necessary)
 

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So I've made a start on this and it's largely been painless.
The only issue I have run into is the wire that runs to the hub, I'm guessing it's ABS? I've undone the wee bolt but the plastic housing has cracked. Can that wire be cut and re-soldered further along its length?
 

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I recently had my wheel bearing done on my GT, passenger side, and they managed to disconnect the wire somewhere in the engine bay so that they didn't have to remove it from the hub. So it's possible on the GT, maybe yours too?
 

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Well, this is turning into a naus.
The new passenger side left hand lower wishbone doesn't fit, not even close. We can get three of the boots in easily but the rear inner is misaligned by about 5mm. That is going back.

And we managed to mangle one of the hex bolts on the drivers side. Everything else is undone a treat, just that one f**ked allan bolt that we can't shift. Any suggestions for getting one of those out?
 

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I tried the drill, it just polished the inside of the damaged cap bolt.
No access for a grinder at the back either.
Having slept on it, I'll pick up a nut splitte tomorrow and try that
 

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Luckily I don't have a life, so I could spend my afternoon underneath the car, carefully drilling through the side of the nut until I felt confident enough to whack it with a chisel.
932204
 

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Glad the old girl is still giving you some fun!
I love her to bits, such a great all rounder. I think they are hugely under-rated cars.
The front suspension is now completely off the car, so that's is all being replaced, along with new cv joint boots. That and adjust the handbrake and she's through the MoT for another year.
 

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well, that's one job I shall farm out next time.
In the end, I replaced both lower wishbones, both upper wishbones and both anti-roll bar links. I also replaced both cv boots on each drive shaft, as all four had split.
the passenger side ABS cable was collateral damage, as it couldn't be freed from it's housing, and I ended up drilling it out. My local motor factor sourced a replacement for £21.
I also needed two new drive shaft cap bolts as one was rounded and one was damaged when I had to drill it's nut off.
All in all, about 12 hours work to overhaul the front suspension, with the car on axle stands in a large garage and no power tools (apart from the electric drill).
 

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932446


these are all on the drivers side. New lower arm, new upper arm (top left) and new ARB.

My refitting sequence was:-
Fit lower arm
fit strut complete with new upper arm. Note how the bottom of the strut is resting/pushing the lower arm down. This allows the driveshaft/hub assembly to be lifted into place.
Fit hub/driveshaft assembly
 

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drivers side again

932447


picture taken lower down, showing the strut keeping the lower arm forced down, thereby allowing a clear run to fit the drive shaft
 

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drivers side hub & driveshaft complete assembly, with new inner & outer boots fitted.

932448


Note that the ABS cable is still attached to this side. I couldn't shift the passenger side and ended up breaking the sensor off in the hub. So on the drivers side, I undid the plug at the bulkhead, tied some string to the plug, and carefully drew the cable through the bulkhead and inner wing, leaving the string in place to help me feed the sensor cable back along it' original path when I reassembled everything
 

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threading the ABS cable back through the bulkhead

932449


apologies for the blurry pic. The green string goes under the ridged plastic pipe through a join in the inner wing and bulkhead, and is all hidden by a big rubber bung.
Threading it through sounds easy, in reality it was a fiddly job and probably would have been easier with a pare pair of hands.
 

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Couple of pointers, for anyone finding this thread while contemplating doing the job themselves.
Make sure the drive shaft cap bolts are cleaned out and make sure that your allen key is firmly home before attempting to undo them, as it is very easy to round them off.
Removing the ABS cable from the hub is extremely difficult. Unplug it as the bulkhead end and thread it through instead. The ABS system doesn't seem to need any sort of reset after disturbing it in this way.
Buy quality parts. I bought a kit and the lower arms didn't fit, not even close to fitting. That delay cost me four days.
With the lower arms, I took the time to clean up the lower arm mounting bolts and then ran them through their respective threads on the lower arms. During fitting them, I also made sure that they went it finger tight until the bolt protruded from the other end of the thread before using a socket on them. I didn't want to damage the aluminium threads.
 

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IMO the best thing anyone working on Alfas can buy is a DeWalt DW899 impact gun with a 54v battery. Hub nuts - don’t even need to be unstaked, just undo them. Crankshaft nut - pah, easy. Subframe bolts, also easy. Annoying M12 bolts in the suspension -simple.

Yes, ABS sensors are a ”fit once because they’re never coming out again“ items. With the foam at the top removed, they’re easy to thread through.

Quality parts - TRW are cheap enough now. Birth are still OK. Ebay kits are junk.
 

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IMO the best thing anyone working on Alfas can buy is a DeWalt DW899 impact gun with a 54v battery. Hub nuts - don’t even need to be unstaked, just undo them. Crankshaft nut - pah, easy. Subframe bolts, also easy. Annoying M12 bolts in the suspension -simple.

Yes, ABS sensors are a ”fit once because they’re never coming out again“ items. With the foam at the top removed, they’re easy to thread through.

Quality parts - TRW are cheap enough now. Birth are still OK. Ebay kits are junk.
I might have to have a sniff at an impact gun, after all my birthday is coming up...
 

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well, I'm gutted. After a mere 21 years use, the front door speakers have started crackling and booming, making it nigh-on impossible to listen to music in the car.

I havent had the speakers out yet, are they difficult to change? Or are they like the GTV and just pop the covers off? Any recomendations for repacements, as I guess that AR originals are going to be few & far between nowadays
 
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