The one I took apart a while back was all white chalky corrosion in the gear end of the motor drive and the other bearing end too. Probably water runs down the cables and starts that process and eventually it seizes up. Might have freed up with cleaning and lubrication but it also lost electrical connectivity so wasn't worth doing more.Just curious to know if the motors can be lubricated / serviced, as my 156’s rear windows are still working but a bit slow?
We did have two!...we should all have two V6 Alfa's on the drive, isn't that right?!
Good man, with great taste in engines!We did have two!
Yes and no. Replacing the rocker box gaskets has cured the bulk of the "drive spotting", although the job list does state "various leaks". So there is more work to do there but drips are nowhere near as bad as they were thanks to the new gaskets. I'm waiting for a formal quote from Autolusso for the work but given the low mileage that the car will be doing, I think that the work can be done in batches rather than one go, in order to spread the cost. The car fits my needs for a family saloon so well, I'm in no rush to replace it with anything else any time soon.Did you get the sump oil leak sorted?
@TaffMGF - At the risk of asking an obvious question: any chance the child-lock cutoff functions on the power-input before it gets to the switches - and that it's shorted to "locked" ?So, and apologies for the long post without pictures, it appears that something is stopping the feed getting to the rear window(s). Are the rears fused separately from the fronts?
I don't even know if that is a thing! I've never set the child locks but then I've never sat in the back... You've got me thinking now!
Good work on fixing it! Your pain our gain, that is why posting it publicly is so appreciated.And the rear electric windows now work. It turned out to be a fuse, but, according to the various fuse box diagrams that I have found, the fuse that was blown wasn't one of the window fuses. It was a 20Amp fuse located in one of the two smaller fuse box's located above the main inner fuse box. (I would attach a picture but I can't seem to at the moment?). Anyway, all four windows now working a treat. Lovely job.
I'd measure actual coolant temps through OBD.Not sure if I have an issue or not...
The car 'feels' like it's running a bit hotter than I seem to remember. She seems to get up to normal working tempreture (70-ish degree's) as usual but then the slightest hint of traffic and she climbs to 90-100 degree's without much prompting. The fans kick in at around 100 degree's, and she hasn't overheated. A steady drive usually gets the temp back down to 70-ish fairly quickly.
I know it's been warm lately but I haven't exactly been thrashing it about.
Am I being twitchy? I recently replaced the coolant reservoir but I can't imagine it would effect the running temp, or am I missing something fundamental?
GTAs & GT 3.2s had 32mm super special lightweight hub nuts from factory, but most are on the standard 36mm by now.Most V6 driveshafts that I've encountered have had a 36mm nut, and a Halfords impact socket fits. Other than the GT, which has 32 mm sockets. Impact guns are good for getting them off.
In theory you can split the shaft from the outer CV, but you need 4 arms and a lot of luck. I always find it easier to remove the whole shaft and do it on the bench. You only need to remove the inner CV (easy) to get both boots on.