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All the 156’s that I’ve had with rear windows not working are because the motors are seized
Just curious to know if the motors can be lubricated / serviced, as my 156’s rear windows are still working but a bit slow?
 

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Just booked in for the cambelt change and the oil leak to addressed. off to Ferndown for my first visit.
 

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Back from Ferndown and I'm very happy with the service there. Laurence and his team carried out a comprehensive health check on the car, then rang me to talk through it before starting on the work I wanted doing. I've had the cam belt done, along with the rocker box gaskets and they replaced the spark plugs while they were in there. The car feels little bit smoother now.

As a result of the health check, I've a list of work that needs doing and so it's a case or prioritising those tasks as I doubt I have the funds to do the lot at once. Plus I've just spotted a GTV V6 without a sunroof that I can afford...we should all have two V6 Alfa's on the drive, isn't that right?!
 

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Just curious to know if the motors can be lubricated / serviced, as my 156’s rear windows are still working but a bit slow?
The one I took apart a while back was all white chalky corrosion in the gear end of the motor drive and the other bearing end too. Probably water runs down the cables and starts that process and eventually it seizes up. Might have freed up with cleaning and lubrication but it also lost electrical connectivity so wasn't worth doing more.

Other fail point is the cable itself which I've seen on other makes if there's only one pulley for the cable to run on and the other end is just a plastic block. 2-pulley ones seem not to suffer that way but I guess add 0.0001P to manufacturing cost so they moved to the "cheaper" more failure prone type.

Might be worth lubricating the runner that has the glass carrier and maybe silicone spray the glass channels and see if that improves things?

As to reducing the corrosion, perhaps less easy as you'd need to stop the water from getting down the cable into the gearing and motor. Add some sort of plastic shield to help keep the cable end dry and perhaps drill a drain hole in the bottom of the gearing to allow it to drain too. Periodic strip down and reapply grease may help tho not having one to hand I can't say how destructive that'd be after the first time.

Can't recall the orientation of the motor in the Alfa now but having the cable entry to the gearing lower than the motor may also help them last a bit longer in terms of furring up inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
...we should all have two V6 Alfa's on the drive, isn't that right?!
We did have two!

Things came to a head when I had the belt done on the GT, we had to hire a car for a couple of days while the GT was being cared for by Waterfall Garage in Bridgend. John there reckoned we needed a "car and a half" to cover such occasions, so we just acquired "half a car" (compared to the V6 156 at any rate). An immaculate '57 plate Nissan Micra with 15,000 miles on the clock for the price of a rusty wreck.

Did you get the sump oil leak sorted?
 

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We did have two!
Good man, with great taste in engines!



Did you get the sump oil leak sorted?
Yes and no. Replacing the rocker box gaskets has cured the bulk of the "drive spotting", although the job list does state "various leaks". So there is more work to do there but drips are nowhere near as bad as they were thanks to the new gaskets. I'm waiting for a formal quote from Autolusso for the work but given the low mileage that the car will be doing, I think that the work can be done in batches rather than one go, in order to spread the cost. The car fits my needs for a family saloon so well, I'm in no rush to replace it with anything else any time soon.
 

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Bit of a small update to the 156, as it is currently proving to be very reliable (albeit not getting used too much).
The rear outer door handle on the passenger side had always been iffy, as the lower pivot was broken. The handle still worked and the door opened but there was a “knack” to it and it often defeated people. So I tracked down a replacement handle on e-by-gum-bay and fitted it. Fitting it took about an hour from start to finish and involved stripping the door card off.
Now, while I was in there, I thought I would have a look at the electric window on that door. Neither of the rear windows have worked since I got the car, and the PO had told me they hadn’t worked for a while. I assumed it was the usual jammed motor malady that affects the 156 and, as it hadn’t been a huge problem, I had given it a good firm ignoring.
With the door card off, I cut away the weather proofing to see if there was an obvious problem, but there wasn’t a glaring error in there. I dug out my multi-meter and started checking the elec windows plug. No volts at all, anywhere.
So I fetched a spare car battery, jury-rigged a pos and neg lead, & started poking them into the plug. And the window went down, as smoothly and as silently as if it were new. Switching the leads over made the window go back up again, equally as smoothly.
So I took off the elec windows switch on the driver’s rear and hooked up my improvised leads, with the same result. The window went down & up faultlessly.
My final check was to remove the driver’s master panel (with all four switches on) and I switched the cables around in order to cross-check if the switches function. On the drivers’ panel, and with the cables switched over, the rear switches operate the front windows but the front switches don’t operate the rear windows. Switching the cables back on their correct switches had the original situation (front windows function when front switches are operated, rear windows do not function when the rear switches are operated).
So, and apologies for the long post without pictures, it appears that something is stopping the feed getting to the rear window(s). Are the rears fused separately from the fronts?
 

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So, and apologies for the long post without pictures, it appears that something is stopping the feed getting to the rear window(s). Are the rears fused separately from the fronts?
@TaffMGF - At the risk of asking an obvious question: any chance the child-lock cutoff functions on the power-input before it gets to the switches - and that it's shorted to "locked" ?
 

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@TaffMGF - At the risk of asking an obvious question: any chance the child-lock cutoff functions on the power-input before it gets to the switches - and that it's shorted to "locked" ?
I don't even know if that is a thing! I've never set the child locks but then I've never sat in the back... You've got me thinking now!
 

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I don't even know if that is a thing! I've never set the child locks but then I've never sat in the back... You've got me thinking now!
At least on my 2005 SW, there's a switch on the drivers door switch-panel to lock out the rear windows, as a safety feature.
 

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A brief update, nothing much as the car is generally quite reliable, albeit with a few niggles.
She developed a squeak from the rear right wheel which turned out to be worn brake pads. Easy enough to fit new ones and cost about a tenner fro new pads.
In the recent hot weather, I parked her up after a long-ish drive and noticed a puddle underneath. Upon opening the bonnet, a stream of coolant was jetting from a hairline split in the header tank. £20 got me a new pattern header tank which took 5 minutes to fix.
And the rear electric windows now work. It turned out to be a fuse, but, according to the various fuse box diagrams that I have found, the fuse that was blown wasn't one of the window fuses. It was a 20Amp fuse located in one of the two smaller fuse box's located above the main inner fuse box. (I would attach a picture but I can't seem to at the moment?). Anyway, all four windows now working a treat. Lovely job.
 

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And the rear electric windows now work. It turned out to be a fuse, but, according to the various fuse box diagrams that I have found, the fuse that was blown wasn't one of the window fuses. It was a 20Amp fuse located in one of the two smaller fuse box's located above the main inner fuse box. (I would attach a picture but I can't seem to at the moment?). Anyway, all four windows now working a treat. Lovely job.
Good work on fixing it! Your pain our gain, that is why posting it publicly is so appreciated.

Saved photo in the overflowing folder marked Alfa stuff :party:
 

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Not sure if I have an issue or not...
The car 'feels' like it's running a bit hotter than I seem to remember. She seems to get up to normal working tempreture (70-ish degree's) as usual but then the slightest hint of traffic and she climbs to 90-100 degree's without much prompting. The fans kick in at around 100 degree's, and she hasn't overheated. A steady drive usually gets the temp back down to 70-ish fairly quickly.

I know it's been warm lately but I haven't exactly been thrashing it about.

Am I being twitchy? I recently replaced the coolant reservoir but I can't imagine it would effect the running temp, or am I missing something fundamental?
 

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Not sure if I have an issue or not...
The car 'feels' like it's running a bit hotter than I seem to remember. She seems to get up to normal working tempreture (70-ish degree's) as usual but then the slightest hint of traffic and she climbs to 90-100 degree's without much prompting. The fans kick in at around 100 degree's, and she hasn't overheated. A steady drive usually gets the temp back down to 70-ish fairly quickly.

I know it's been warm lately but I haven't exactly been thrashing it about.

Am I being twitchy? I recently replaced the coolant reservoir but I can't imagine it would effect the running temp, or am I missing something fundamental?
I'd measure actual coolant temps through OBD.
The gauge in my TS shows ~75 when it's actually 86-87, but shows ~95 when it's actually close to 100.

I feel like it doesn't take much traffic for the TS to climb up to 95 either, but it also comes down again quickly upon moving in unobstructed air (no cars in front).
 

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So, MoT time and I dug the 156 out of storage where she had patiently sat all summer while I played with the V6 GTV.
The MoT man found a couple of issues, the biggie being that the CV joints have both split. He hasn't specified inner or outer boot and I haven't yet had a chance to get under there and have a look, my plan is to get the car into my garage over the weekend and work out whats-what.

Are the driveshafts on the V6 156 set up the same way as the TS cars? With the large nut (64mm?) that needs a special slimline socket? Or can the boots be replaced without removing the entire drive shaft?
 

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Most V6 driveshafts that I've encountered have had a 36mm nut, and a Halfords impact socket fits. Other than the GT, which has 32 mm sockets. Impact guns are good for getting them off.

In theory you can split the shaft from the outer CV, but you need 4 arms and a lot of luck. I always find it easier to remove the whole shaft and do it on the bench. You only need to remove the inner CV (easy) to get both boots on.
 

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Most V6 driveshafts that I've encountered have had a 36mm nut, and a Halfords impact socket fits. Other than the GT, which has 32 mm sockets. Impact guns are good for getting them off.

In theory you can split the shaft from the outer CV, but you need 4 arms and a lot of luck. I always find it easier to remove the whole shaft and do it on the bench. You only need to remove the inner CV (easy) to get both boots on.
GTAs & GT 3.2s had 32mm super special lightweight hub nuts from factory, but most are on the standard 36mm by now.
 

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cheers for that, I knew it was an outsize nut but not sure where I got 64mm from!

I've still not had a chance to get it into the garage yet, bit it sounds as though removing the entire drive shaft is the easier option for the home DIYer?
 

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I think so. When you unbolt the 6 hex bolts from the inner hub, make sure they are clean - poke the recesses with a small screwdriver. Otherwise your bit won’t engage properly and it will cam out, wrecking the bolt.
 

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I've just noticed that my "lower front suspension arm ball joint is excessively worn" as well. That's a whole lower wishbone, isn't? Might as well do both while i'm in there.
Oh well.
 
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