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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have removed the MA unit on my 03/2010 QV as I had rough idle and started loosing one cylinder. Fault code P0304 indicated that cylinder 4 was falling out.

Check out Ransoman's guide on removal of the unit, then I will take it from there.

I had valve actuator parts falling out of cylinder 4 unit as I lifted the MA unit off, just as Ransoman had warned. I will advise you to try to avoid this by sticking something under the unit asap as these are small parts and there are room for them to drop down beside the inlet valves. No fun trying to catch them with a magnet afterwards...

Here these inlet valve actuator parts. Parts at right side faces towards inlet valve top, i.e. downwards

Update: If these parts fall out as shown here below a very small lock ring is missing ! Try to find a replacement, I damaged the parts during assembly as they fell out and got jammed !

Metal

Now you have the unit placed on your work table.

Remove the sheet metal MA unit top cover using a T25 bit. Around 20 screws holds this cover. When the cover is removed, the arms with rollers between inlet cam and MA unit can be moved away and spring and piston can be removed.

Now the 'could-be-loose' hollow nut (or cylinder) is accessible. My number 4 could be turned using two fingers !
A 17mm hex top fits. Thread is M22x1 if anyone should consider reparing it.

I tigthened the remaining 3 nuts/cylinders using a calibrated torque wrench and going up in steps from 20 Nm to find the torque they were tigthened with. All were tight at 40 Nm, 2 out of 3 moved a bit at 45 Nm.

I then degreased the threaded parts on the defective unit, added some Loctite 648 (strong thread lock) and torqued it 40 Nm.

As I had the sheet metal cover of the unit I decided to fill the voids in the unit with engine oil in hope that it would make the bleeding of the unit quicker. I'm not sure it made a difference, but it can't hurt.

Put pistons and spring back in nut/cylinders, move the arms with rollers back in their place. Place the sheet metal cover and make sure the rocker arms are inside the guide arms on the cover. Mount the many T25 screws and tighten. I use a T-wrench singlehanded, that will be around 10 Nm.

Test if all 8 inlet valve actuators is safe, i.e the lockring works. Use a light pull in the piston with 2 fingers. I strongly suggest you find other actuators from a scrapped unit or find replacement lockrings, if your pistons falls out. I tried to secure mine using a pinch of grease and ended up damaging an actuator during assembly.

You are now ready to return to Ransomans guide and mount the unit. I will add one comment though: First time I mounted the unit, I just pushed it down and tightened the bolts. That means the inlet camshaft will we interacting on all 4 units during assembly, and that does not help you getting it in place.
I was told on the danish clubs forum, that there is an assembly tool with E-per no. 2000043500. Ididn't have to think long to invent something, that would help during the assembly process: Rollers pushed in, 4 short bolts jammed between roller frame/arm and the sheet metal cover pins stopping the roller units from going too far out. I used M8 bolts on the 2 cylinders where the cam was 'active' and M6 for the other 2. This made assembly a lot easier. The cam interaction caused the bolts to be released during assembly.

This shows the M6/M8 bolts in place and unit ready for mounting.

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Transmission part

I tightened the 9 pcs T45-bolt 25Nm.

I did not remove the vacuum pump, instead I removed the stud bolt using two countered nuts. It is then possible to lift the valve cover vertically up with the punp in place. I also left the turbo heat covers in place.

More pictures:

Unit disassembled.
From top: 4 pcs spring/pistons, the many T25 screws, the sheet metal cover facing inside up, MA unit body with the nut/cylinders facing out. Number 4 (right) nut/cylinder is removed and is placed in lower right corner of the photo. The 4 arms with rollers are rotated out of the way to the left.

Auto part Engine

Looking down into cylinder 4 sparkplug tube. Inlet valve tops are in top of picture, cam is in lower part of the picture. The rightmost cam lobe is actuating unit 4 inlet valves.

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Nice writeup. Thanks for posting this :) I will link this in my original thread as this is great help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Please tell me what state was laying under the top cover unit MA? You change it? Or sealant? On a photo red ...
Hi. I reused the red seal on the sheet metal top cover on the MA unit. I don't recall if I added a smear of sealant though...
 

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Hi. I reused the red seal on the sheet metal top cover on the MA unit. I don't recall if I added a smear of sealant though...
Thanks for the answer Leo.dk.
My problems started six months ago. I start popping bug P1062-71. 5 seconds, the machine worked on 3 cylinders then everything is OK. Sometimes the error itself propadala.Vo ride again pops up. Immediately changed the oil and filter. Enough for the day. Then again changed and the result is the same. It was decided to disassemble the unit and clean it Multiair. When disassembling contamination not identified. The only suspect was a red lining the upper lid of sheet metal on the device Multiair. It is like a bud that has dried on the temperature and crumbled into small particles. Once the bulkhead drove 7000 km. there were no problems. Now again the same error. I think these small particles enter the unit, and because of this blockage occurs the drive. Once again I want to make out of this place and the gasket sealant walk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the answer Leo.dk.
My problems started six months ago. I start popping bug P1062-71. 5 seconds, the machine worked on 3 cylinders then everything is OK. Sometimes the error itself propadala.Vo ride again pops up. Immediately changed the oil and filter. Enough for the day. Then again changed and the result is the same. It was decided to disassemble the unit and clean it Multiair. When disassembling contamination not identified. The only suspect was a red lining the upper lid of sheet metal on the device Multiair. It is like a bud that has dried on the temperature and crumbled into small particles. Once the bulkhead drove 7000 km. there were no problems. Now again the same error. I think these small particles enter the unit, and because of this blockage occurs the drive. Once again I want to make out of this place and the gasket sealant walk
Hi

My sealing looked really fine, so there was no reason to do anything.
I'm afraid that it will not be possible to find this sealing as the unit is only sold complete.
My suggestion will be to remove the remaining sealing and use a high temperature silicone to replace it like this:
Würth high temp silicone
 

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Well, most of the evidence until now shows that the unit is falling apart because that cylinder gets loose... And now i'm wondering why everyone thinks that oil is sooo critical, or blaming it for the multiair.

How could the bad/wrong oil get the nut/cylinder loose??
 

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Im gettimg error P1063
I noticed oil temp is very very high on error details. 1900-3000 [email protected] celsius.
Car just throwing that error once in a while.
The temp sensor is on thr multiair unit. Anyone changed this?
My car od on its 4th MA unit.
 

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Im gettimg error P1063
I noticed oil temp is very very high on error details. 1900-3000 [email protected] celsius.
Car just throwing that error once in a while.
The temp sensor is on thr multiair unit. Anyone changed this?
My car od on its 4th MA unit.
Wow! If your oil temp is that high, I would be more worried about your entire engine melting into a puddle!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This oil temperature is surely an error in sensor or ECU, even temperatures 10 times lower would be critical.

Regarding the oil quality: The specified oil resists high temperature very well, and that is necessary as the turbo oil line gets pretty warm and therefore toasts a low spec oil.
The Multiair unit most likely needs a clean (not toasted...) oil with stable viscosity to work properly, and that is what you get with the high spec Senenia (or similar).
The cylinder that gets loose is surely not related to oil quality and probably not sensitive to heat either. It's just bad engineering design not to secure this part properly...
 

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there was a replacement multiair unit (this fixed the mechanical failure)
and i only use selenia oil.
 

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@Leo.dk

How is your Ma unit holding, A local Alfa dealer told me the have tried to repair a unit, but the cilinder was loose whitin 1000 km.

Mine is having at the moment codes 1x p1064 2x p0300 1x p0302 2x p0304.

symtoms are a missing cilinder whith a cold start, also whith throttle to 2500 revs, usaly intermittent fault codes, driving about 500 meters problems are gone whem warming up.

Also i hear a knocking sound on cilinder four, when warm there are no problems anymore.

Changed plugs en bought a new coil for testing, but nothing changed. :depressed:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No problems so far. I sold the car 6-7.000 km after the fix, but is still in contact with the new owner.
Car is now remapped (192 HP and 290 Nm on 95 octane) and equipped with xenon and black grille :smoker:
Numbers before remap was 164 HP and 260 Nm. Normal for QV and good for a high miler in my opinion
 

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No problems so far. I sold the car 6-7.000 km after the fix, but is still in contact with the new owner.
Car is now remapped (192 HP and 290 Nm on 95 octane) and equipped with xenon and black grille :smoker:
Numbers before remap was 164 HP and 260 Nm. Normal for QV and good for a high miler in my opinion
I have just dismantled the MA unit,

There were two loose cilinders number three and four specialy that one was loose the most, but the are not out of the tread and the treads all looks fine a little bit of damage on number four but overall the tread looks good to me.

I removed al four to see how much thread there is left or supposed to be,...... there is about 5.5/6 turns of tread on all four,
getting some loctite and i wil give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have just dismantled the MA unit,

There were two loose cilinders number three and four specialy that one was loose the most, but the are not out of the tread and the treads all looks fine a little bit of damage on number four but overall the tread looks good to me.

I removed al four to see how much thread there is left or supposed to be,...... there is about 5.5/6 turns of tread on all four,
getting some loctite and i wil give it a try.
Sounds very promising :thumbup:

Remember to make sure the 8 actuators for the inlet valves are safe (not dropping out) before reassembly.
 
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The threads are oke, only loos cilinders three and four. when more often errors,........in my case p1064 , p0300, p0302, p0304 and p0300 random misfires occuring,
Maybe it is very important to act fast,,..... as soon the errors related to the MA are occuring.


Already assembled the MA cilinders with loctite,...... prefilling oil is very easy with an oil can like this,

when the correct oil is coming out the four little holes on the topplate you are ready
tomorrow assembling day :devious:
 

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Update,

Put all back in place, and with the oil can prefilled MA unit the engine was starting at the first turn, no errors coming up checked co2 with Torque, parameters now all oke.
The engine is more silent and a smooth idle.

Assambled the degreased cilinders in the degreased MA unit with 45 nm with the strongest treadlock orapi 300.

So far so good see how long it last :biglaugh:
 

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Update,

Put all back in place, and with the oil can prefilled MA unit the engine was starting at the first turn, no errors coming up checked co2 with Torque, parameters now all oke.
The engine is more silent and a smooth idle.

Assambled the degreased cilinders in the degreased MA unit with 45 nm with the strongest treadlock orapi 300.

So far so good see how long it last :biglaugh:

Back from southern France, and 4000 km of smooth running, no errors occurred :thumbup:

Keep you posted :biglaugh:
 
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