[skippy2421]

Right guys, second thread of the day and I'm in need your help confirming some stuff with me. I had previously booked my MiTo in to autolusso to do my discs and pads at a reasonable cost. However personal circumstances have dictated I won't be around to get it done with them now (split with the gf and everything that entails) and i'll be moving back to Kent. Now all my local places want like £500 to fit some discs and pads which is absurd when you can buy oem replacement pagids for £170 or brembo gear at a bit over £200. I refuse to believe there is need for £300 worth of labour charges. Hell I could get the friction pads from autolusso at that money and still have change.

Now I've got a week off work in a couple of weeks and access to loads of tools (bar a brake wind back tool which i may be able to borrow from a friend) and loads of room to work. I'd like to change them myself if possible considering the absurd local prices. Plus it might give me something to do to take my mind off things and it's always nice to learn this stuff.

Now identifying the parts is simple enough. I've changed pads on my old mg ZR before and that was simple but never ventured to discs. I'd appreciate any advice on doing this.

Now i found this guide on changing them but with the non brembo fronts.

How to replace Alfa Romeo MiTo front brake pads & discs

Other than the pads coming out differently (done this before) is it all the same ie is the caliper just held on by the two bolts as indicated on the diagram albeit a different caliper? I'm also aware of the sensor on the fronts too.

Also what do you guys use to remove the protective coating on the discs and cleaning up brakes as described in link am I ok in assuming IPA would be good for the coating and some generaic brake cleaner or a good brush and some old rag good for the rest (watching it on seals ofcourse) ?

Other than the above I see no issue with me doing the fronts assuming the disc comes off ok and is just a case of a couple of bolts/screws.

Now the bit I am unsure on. The rears. Is this the same as the fronts ie a few bolts and off it all pops bar the fact you can't just force the pistons back they need to be screwed back. How does the handbrake fit in here? Also I'd normally just whack copper slip on the back of the pads but i'm told I'm better of using something else as copper slip dries out at temperature. What would this be?

Apologies for all the questions but lacking the confidence to do much atm and I'd rather ask and be told I understand it correctly than just crack on and deal with the problems then as I normally would. Kind of in a fragile state of mind right now. Any other tips and advice would also be much appreciated.

Cheers guys.

 

[Shoei]

Did my fronts a while back, bought a set of discs & pads from ECP, Pagid discs & pads.
That guide does help but on my MiTo the disk was retained by 2 guide pins that unscrewed.
Cleaned up caliper & disc surface with brake cleaner.

Have'nt done the rears yet, but bought the caliper reset tool from Amazon, £16 which was a bargain.

 

[r_d_g]

Ive not had the disks off yet but I couldnt see anything complicated or unusual about them when i was poking around. Should just be a case of removing the caliper carrier and any fixing screws.

Ive not had the rears off either but a caliper winding tool is always useful in getting the pads on. With regards the handbrake you need to take it off while your doing the brakes or youve no chance of getting the pads off.

Ive always used copper grease o and never had a problem with in degrading any quicker than the pads or disks.

As above some brake cleaner on the disks and calipers is a good idea.

 

[LJ_GQV]

Did my fronts a while back, bought a set of discs & pads from ECP, Pagid discs & pads.
That guide does help but on my MiTo the disk was retained by 2 guide pins that unscrewed.
Cleaned up caliper & disc surface with brake cleaner.

Have'nt done the rears yet, but bought the caliper reset tool from Amazon, £16 which was a bargain.

(Sorry to go off topic) Are the pagids any good on MiTo's? Mine needs new discs & pads & pagids were recommended but if i mention pagids to some people they say they are cheap crap & to stay away

 

[skippy2421]

Well depends on what you want. As a direct OEM replacement they're as good as any other OEM ones quite frankly. Yeah sure you wouldn't want to take them on a track but you wouldn't take alfa standard ones on one either. There are a lot of people out there who believe anything but racing spec stuff is rubbish when actually a lot of that is more of a liability on the road than pagid OEM stuff. Autolusso (Bournemouth) are gonna replace mine with pagids btw and if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me. Good ole Laurence got me in on the day I leave Poole. Saves me the aggro when I've got so much going on already. Later on down the line I would like to get some Tarox disks and some performance friction pads on the front with braided hoses but having just renewed my insurance I'll leave the proper mods for a year and stick to ICE and cosmetics for now (there's plenty of that to do anyway) but it's useful to know it's all pretty easy.

 

[LJ_GQV]

Thats good to know, cheers :thumbs:

 

[ViR2]

I think OEM brakes are good, yet i installed brembo disc's with EBC red stuff ceramic pads, and now you can fly through front window when stoping

 

[omegaman]

I changed my front pads to EBCs green in 20 minutes with normal tools, the discs are easy to remove just a locating screw, try German Swedish French autoparts for spares too.

 

[Mav360]

I got the brakes pads check light and just went out an bought Pagid Discs and Pads all round to go on, now I`m wondering did I really need to get the discs too? is it recommended to do both at the same time if it is only the pad wear warning.