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MES 5.0 doesn't show blown fuses?

449 Views 21 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Jimmy Limache
Problem 1: Selespeed pump fuses are blowing
– the blown fuse for the pump doesn't show up in MES
– relay looks ok in MES (removed it just to see if MES is reading it)

Problem 2: the car won't start. (Battery is good.) Knowing that the brake pedal sensor can have a hand in this, I (a) "actuated" the brake lights (they work), I (b) stepped on the brake pedal (the lights go on but, interestingly, MES>Body>Parameters>Brake lights remain OFF).
I'm thinking that I should check the ignition fuse (F72 on top of the battery), but (a) as it appears to be bolted in, and (b) I've yet to become familiar with this type of fuse and I'm not sure what I'll find when I get it out, I'm thinking that the easy way is to look in MES, but: Do blown fuses show up as errors in MES?
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Problem 1: Selespeed pump fuses are blowing
– the blown fuse for the pump doesn't show up in MES
– relay looks ok in MES (removed it just to see if MES is reading it)

Problem 2: the car won't start. (Battery is good.) Knowing that the brake pedal sensor can have a hand in this, I (a) "actuated" the brake lights (they work), I (b) stepped on the brake pedal (the lights go on but, interestingly, MES>Body>Paraeters>Brake lights remain OFF).
I'm thinking that I should check the ignition fuse (F72 on top of the battery), but (a) as it appears to be bolted in, and (b) I've yet to become familiar with this type of fuse and I'm not sure what I'll find when I get it out, I'm thinking that the easy way is to look in MES, but: Do blown fuses show up as errors in MES?
You won't see a blown fuse..... At most, because an ecu gets no power, you will be unable to read that ecu ;)
 

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It will only show things the ECUs know to look for.
A prime example is when the Selespeed accumulator fails. MES (or whatever) can't diagnose that, but what you will see is an error for the Selespeed pump relay being stuck.
It assumes it is that due to the pump running too often due to the failed accumulator.

The relay will be fine, replacing that won't fix the accumulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected battery and nearby fuse terminals (just 'cuz), still no start.

Is stepping on the brake pedal, lights go on but MES>Body>Parameters>Brake lights remain OFF significant?
 

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When you say the car won't start does it turn over or just beep at you and say on the dash to press the brake pedal? The error code for a bad bake pedal switch is P1760, you would see it in the ECU or gearbox module.

Also, what gear is it in when you try to start N or 1st?

If the pump is having issues and you are in 1st it may not be building enough pressure to drop to neutral. The car won't start if it is in gear.

In MES when in the gearbox module the brake pedal parameter is there also. Does it change when the brake pedal is pressed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
"The car won't start if it is in gear." Ahh...
It's in R. The pump fuses blow before I can get the car started, so I can't change the gear. I migrated the other nearby 30A fuse (the radiator fan), it blew before I first tried starting the car this morning, that was the last one, so there hasn't been a fuse in all day.

The P1760 error code has not shown up, in repeated readings. When I turn the key to start, there are no sounds from the engine or from the dash, no messages, and the lights on the middle console go out.

Yes, the brake pedal parameter changes.

Thanks!
 

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Some of the clicking you hear is the pistons and rods inside the actuator moving when the solenoids open/close which requires hydraulic pressure. Not sure what you would hear if just the solenoids were actuating without pressure to move anything.

This video shows where the pump is with a bit of commentary about how to get to it.

 

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Disconnect the Selespeed pump BEFORE putting the key in the ignition, then put key in the ignition and turn the key to start, if the pump fuse no longer blows then the pump is what is causing the fuse to blow and it will need to be replaced.

Simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Automotive tire Vehicle Tread Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle


This is what's referred to as "the BIG connector block to the actuator", correct? The white arrow shows where it disconnects, correct? Is it a simple pressure fit, or are there clips somewhere that I'm not noticing? (So far, nothing's moving, and I really don't want to break this thing!)
My plan is to clean this connection before running bazzbazz's pump/fuse procedure.

Also, I can't see the pump at the moment (the battery tray's in the way), but with the time-zone delays, let me please ask now what might be an obvious question later: where do I disconnect the pump?
 

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Also, I can't see the pump at the moment (the battery tray's in the way), but with the time-zone delays, let me please ask now what might be an obvious question later: where do I disconnect the pump?
The pump is in the front of the left front wheel arch.
Below the Selespeed fluid reservoir.
You should see a 2-pin connector near the Selespeed reservoir, which will be for the pump.
 

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This is what's referred to as "the BIG connector block to the actuator", correct? The white arrow shows where it disconnects, correct? Is it a simple pressure fit, or are there clips somewhere that I'm not noticing? (So far, nothing's moving, and I really don't want to break this thing!)
Pull the big flat locking tab on the top up. This will slide the connector apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I had to take out the battery tray to find the BIG connector – it was just floating around down there (don't know why I didn't notice that when I adjusted the clutch rod). It mounted nicely on the bracket holding the pump relay, so that's where I assume it belongs, and that's where I put it after cleaning it and putting the battery back in.

Doesn't matter :p With the pump connected, the fuses blow; with the pump disconnected, they don't.

Shop4parts.co.uk has the best price (plus a good price on a radiator expansion tank, which I could use), but it isn't working for me, and they haven't answered my support requests. Know if they're still in business?
Ebay ranges from $355USD to $727USD, and that's before shipping – I'm open for recommendations!
 

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Check out these guys, good reputation with good shipping by DHL.


Or these guys who also ship DHL with good rates.


I have purchased from both in the past.

The pump has its own connector, the big connector is just for the loom to the actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks, I'll check 'em out.

"The pump has its own connector" means (a) the connector near the pump that I disconnected for fuse testing, or (b) there's another connector (direct from the pump) at/on/near the actuator?
 
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