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Discussion Starter #1
hi all,

i know this has been covered before, i have read up on it and just wanted to clear a few things in my head with the people who have already done this mod...

is it better to put the sensor toothed ring between the belts in a AHM motorsport style or to weld it to the outer of the front pulley? im thinking the pulley may move over time as its not located or dowelled to the crank.. has anybody figured out a way to locate it?

also im reading that 36deg advance is good for full load, does anybody have an ignition map i can pinch as a starting point?

oooo what plug leads to use?

any info would be brill, thanks
:thumbs:
 

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Pulley

Hi, if you remove the front v belt pulley from your crank which you can do in situe, you need to buy, scrounge, or borrow a large ring key and get someone to put a crank in it with oxyacetalene so it clears your radiator. Or just drop the engine, remove the pulley, then hacksaw the last two v's off, pull out/chop with a sharp knife the rubber inner. Then take it to an engineer and get a piece made from steel to replace the rubber that you removed, either make it an interferance fit and useing heat and cold on reassembly. The shop will probably do this if you ask them for a small fee, once that is done ask them to face the pulley up true to the bore, and recess this face by 1mm, bore the trigger wheel so the trigger locates on the pulley recess. Then get 6/8 equally spaced welds around the circumferance and finally skim the trigger wheel so it runs perfectly true to the bore. Not as much work as it sounds!

Hope this makes things a little clearer:thumbs:
 

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If it is on a 16v engine, why don't you just use the Alfa one off the flywheel? I use this with my DTA setup without any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hi baldy and mark, thanks for the tips,..

baldy i already made a new pulley from an old sud one, one piece , no rubber section,.. im thinking of going along with you plan tho and get a sensor ring and have it or the pulley machined so they sit together nicely and then weld it. i read that the gap needs to be 90 deg round clockwise from the sensor when the cranks at tdc right ?
what air gap have you set on the sensor?

Mark,.. i very very nearly did also go down that route ( i still might if the front pulley gets tricky ).. i went for the sud flywheel as its very much lighter than the 16v one .. i was surprised in the difference!
i did also notice i would have to notch the sud bell housing as the crank sensor sticks out a little from the engine rear casing! its those silly things that can catch you out ehh??


ooooo baldy yours is on carbs isnt it? have you kept the standard curved trumpets into the air box? are they large enough for 40mm carbs?


also ... last question, honest lol .... coil pack needs to have the leads paired up as 1 and 2,.. 3 and 4, if i have worked that out right ?
 
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