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WD is not a cleaner,its more a lubricant/penatrant,it will not clean you meter,may cause damage(ever heard anout K&N filters killing AFM's,well thats the oil in the filter),what i would do is not drive the car or even start it,go to halfords and buy some carb cleaner and spray that in and wash the WD out
 

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I spent a few months cleaning out the MAF with Isopropyl Alcohol at regular intervals. Made a difference for a day or two, then back to the usual lag. Eventually bit the bullet and got a new MAF. Definitely worth the cash! Car was like new and much faster and more responsive than it had ever been.

Go for the original Bosch if you're thinking about it.
 

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I might have MAF problems too (no acceleration until 2k rpm, pretty much normal after that + diagnostic shows much more air being pulled in than its supposed to) but i cant seem to disconnect the bloody thing!
Can anyone tell me where there is something to pull or press to get it off? I should probably do that with the air hose off but if i do that i'll never get those clips back on...
 

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I spent a few months cleaning out the MAF with Isopropyl Alcohol at regular intervals. Made a difference for a day or two, then back to the usual lag. Eventually bit the bullet and got a new MAF. Definitely worth the cash! Car was like new and much faster and more responsive than it had ever been.

Go for the original Bosch if you're thinking about it.
The trouble with alcohol or electrical contact cleaner is that it leaves a residue behind which is why i always use carb cleaner then rinse the maff under warm water to clear any residue left then dry with the other halfs hair dryer then refit. It has always worked perfect for me.
You just have to make sure you stay well away from the wire element inside the maf.
Some people attack it with a cotton bud and then wonder why it is knackered when they refit it.
 

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I might have MAF problems too (no acceleration until 2k rpm, pretty much normal after that + diagnostic shows much more air being pulled in than its supposed to) but i cant seem to disconnect the bloody thing!
Can anyone tell me where there is something to pull or press to get it off? I should probably do that with the air hose off but if i do that i'll never get those clips back on...
Unscrew the two torx screws and then pull the bugger. obviously make sure you have pulled the conector block of it first. Just give it a good tug. The maf that is.:cheese:
 

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in the end after cleaning and more cleaning, a new MAF is the best you can do....
 

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Unscrew the two torx screws and then pull the bugger. obviously make sure you have pulled the conector block of it first. Just give it a good tug. The maf that is.:cheese:
then again :cheese:his mrs proably wonder why he's in garage all time:cheese::cheese:
 

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then again :cheese:his mrs proably wonder why he's in garage all time:cheese::cheese:
:lol: :lol:
Yeah she does get on me for spending more time/money on the car than on her... Well when she will have 140HP under the bonnet... :lol:


Unscrew the two torx screws and then pull the bugger. obviously make sure you have pulled the conector block of it first. Just give it a good tug. The maf that is.:cheese:
So if i understand correctly to unplug it (not remove it.. i just want to check if MAF is at fault) i just pull the connector block off? I wont break any catches or anything if i just pull it?
 
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