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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there!

I'd like to share some toughts about LED-ding a GTV.

Firstly I started my Led project on my main instrument cluster.
I installed T10 square LED-s to the original lightbulb position. However I found out that it doesnt lit the pointer arms. This led to me to install 2 led to 1 light bulb position. 1 Led facing the dials, 1 led facing the plastic light wich leads the light up to the dial plate and the pointer.
This way my instruments are much lighter than they were, however my pointer arms are still hollow as sh*t. I reckon that there is a way to change pointer arms to lit ones, but I have no clue where to buy any, or whoever works GTV isntruments to LED-ised one.

My second project was to LED-up the center console. My auxiliary instruments suffered the same fate as the main instruments. Back lit nicely, pointer arms hollow.
NOTE: All instruments use plastic see-through light channeling. This plastic runs the light up to the pointer arms however it is not good enough for me. Idea?
With this done I started to work my climate controls. This time 1 extracted the channeling plastic and Installed 6 LEDs, 2 to each dial so it will disperse evenly, and left the 2 top bulbs, now replaced by LEDs the same place they were. The endresult is fantastic! Will post picture later.
Too bad I can't remove the plastic channeling material from the dials. :(

Third stage was for me to replace the interior switch LEDs to higher intesinty ones.
The window switches are now glowing nicely, but i will revert back to original because they are very bright and it is kinda disturbing at night.
Side-mirror switch: Don't even bother. The inside of the switch is so stuffed, couldt fit any great LEDs inside. Maybe in the future... Same happened to the roof window switch and the front light adjust switch. These switches use so small LEDs it is utterly impossible to install any bigger ones.

My roof, footwell, under-door bulbs were switched for larger LED bulbs. Now these glow brilliantly. However the glovebox bulb isnt working.
Roof bookviewing bulb is stock. They dont sell reversed polarity bayonet LED yet... Meh.
Trunk boot is also lit by LED.

By the way. Outside. I switched my front standing lights to LED and also my main lights to LEDs too. Will be back with pictures.

I'm accepting any ideas about the glovebox bulb not working, the instrument pointer arms, and the switch lighting too.
 

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You have amazing patience (or too much spare time!:cheese:) No seriously sounds like a great little project on the go!:)

Re: the roof mounted map reading light. A reverse polarity LED bulb is available for this as I have just bought some for that purpose. There is a company on ebay.co.uk called fizzmo who have had some manufactured. They are priced at £4.99 for two.They are not actually for sale on ebay,but you can contact the company through the site.
I haven't got round to fitting mine yet so I can't tell you if they are any good or not...
 

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I fitted green LEDs in my instruments. I thought it was a good idea since the instrument have a greeenish light. However i didn't consider that the pointers are red, and since green and red are compliment colours they will not illuminate at all. :cry:

Just something to think about if you are about to fit LEDs.
 

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The window switches are now glowing nicely, but i will revert back to original because they are very bright and it is kinda disturbing at night.
Or change the current limiting resistors to higher value ones. The standard resistors are about 600R ( I think ). Try a resistor of about 2K and work up ( 5k, 10k ) until you find a value that works for you. On the window switches, the resistor is a SMD device ( small & black ) near the LED. The other switches tend to have non SMD resistors.

The headlamp adjuster will be difficult. The mirror switch isn't difficult - use a 3mm LED and bend the legs in the same way the factory did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You have amazing patience (or too much spare time!:cheese:) No seriously sounds like a great little project on the go!:)

Re: the roof mounted map reading light. A reverse polarity LED bulb is available for this as I have just bought some for that purpose. There is a company on ebay.co.uk called fizzmo who have had some manufactured. They are priced at £4.99 for two.They are not actually for sale on ebay,but you can contact the company through the site.
I haven't got round to fitting mine yet so I can't tell you if they are any good or not...
Please check back if they are good!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Or change the current limiting resistors to higher value ones. The standard resistors are about 600R ( I think ). Try a resistor of about 2K and work up ( 5k, 10k ) until you find a value that works for you. On the window switches, the resistor is a SMD device ( small & black ) near the LED. The other switches tend to have non SMD resistors.

The headlamp adjuster will be difficult. The mirror switch isn't difficult - use a 3mm LED and bend the legs in the same way the factory did it.
I will buy tommorow some standard leds for the mirror switch, because i wanted to install an 1 W 5050 smd and it didnt fit, because the channeling plastic is in the way. But removing it will make my LFT-RGHT switch hollow.
Will check back when i finish.
 

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I've been swapping around instrument binnacles & parts for a few months now, all fitted with LEDs.
My instrument binnacle currently has:
Ph 2 dial faces but have removed the green filters and are now are completely white dials; they do look good.
I have a ph3 odometer, in red as opposed to the standard LCD which glows green at night.
I have ph 3 needles (red as opposed to Ph2 orange) - readable but would prefer more channeled light.

Basically, I have white standard dials with a red odometer.
 

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I've been swapping around instrument binnacles & parts for a few months now, all fitted with LEDs.
My instrument binnacle currently has:
Ph 2 dial faces but have removed the green filters and are now are completely white dials; they do look good.
I have a ph3 odometer, in red as opposed to the standard LCD which glows green at night.
I have ph 3 needles (red as opposed to Ph2 orange) - readable but would prefer more channeled light.

Basically, I have white standard dials with a red odometer.

Pictures please :)
 

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Here's a random one I have on my iphone. I'll get something better when I get back home 'darn sarf' from Northumberland. You get the idea though, notice: silver binnacles (ph2), red odo (ph3), red needles (ph3), original speedo & rev dials in white (ph2). Original circuit board & mileage. Dimmer works fine.
 

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Please check back if they are good!
Fitted the reverse polarity LED for the reading light today.

It is a bit of a tight fit but ok. The light type I would describe as a soft white.

Its not that bright but I have stuck some mirror-like plastic film into the recesses of the light unit holder and that helps the brightness issue quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm back with some photos. My machine is not the best and I had trouble finding the right setting, because it has no "night mode" so here are the photos I made.
Here are the bulbs I used:
HB3 3000lumen 3Led White Cree (main headlight)
T10 1,5 - 3W SMD White Led (Auxiliary and main isntruments cluster)
T5 3W SMD White Led (Auxiliary)
12V 1,5W SMD White 5050 5 SMD (Position, markers)
12V 5W 5050 16 SMD White Sofita (Glovebox, Boot, Door)
Superbright Top-View LED PLCC2, 800 mcd, 120°, 20 mA, 3-3,8 V, green (Window, roof window switch, electric mirror switch)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm back with some photos. My machine is not the best and I had trouble finding the right setting, because it has no "night mode" so here are the photos I made.
Here are the bulbs I used:
HB3 3000lumen 3Led White Cree (main headlight)
T10 1,5 - 3W SMD White Led (Auxiliary and main isntruments cluster)
T5 3W SMD White Led (Auxiliary)
12V 1,5W SMD White 5050 5 SMD (Position, markers)
12V 5W 5050 16 SMD White Sofita (Glovebox, Boot, Door)
Superbright Top-View LED PLCC2, 800 mcd, 120°, 20 mA, 3-3,8 V, green (Window, roof window switch, electric mirror switch)
Bumper - 7 Color 56cm 48 LED RGB Flash Strobe Strip Light Waterproof Kit
 

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Looking good Walcz!

Are your main instrument needles bright enough now? Mine are still not as bright as I would like them.

Also, can your odometer be dimmed by the dimmer switch? Mine seems to have only one setting/brightness....ON, a bit too bright for night driving.

Thanks
Matt
 

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Firstly I started my Led project on my main instrument cluster.
I installed T10 square LED-s to the original lightbulb position. However I found out that it doesnt lit the pointer arms. This led to me to install 2 led to 1 light bulb position. 1 Led facing the dials, 1 led facing the plastic light wich leads the light up to the dial plate and the pointer.
This way my instruments are much lighter than they were, however my pointer arms are still hollow as sh*t. I reckon that there is a way to change pointer arms to lit ones, but I have no clue where to buy any, or whoever works GTV isntruments to LED-ised one.
The bulb/LED must point into the tip of the light channel. Some of the LED bulb heights are too high to correctly channel the light into the plastic 'spear' tip of the light channel. Are your LEDs actually brighter than the original bulbs? Sure they will be 'whiter', but brighter?

The light channel is in the attached photo, I'm shining a LED torch (held in a vice) directly through the tip; the needle is super bright.

I've just removed all my LEDs from my console and have bright needles again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The bulb/LED must point into the tip of the light channel. Some of the LED bulb heights are too high to correctly channel the light into the plastic 'spear' tip of the light channel. Are your LEDs actually brighter than the original bulbs? Sure they will be 'whiter', but brighter?

The light channel is in the attached photo, I'm shining a LED torch (held in a vice) directly through the tip; the needle is super bright.

I've just removed all my LEDs from my console and have bright needles again.
Yes the Led SMDs are pointing on the channel. The pointer arms are not as bright as I would like them to be :(
I used high power SMD that are way brighter than normal bulbs.
I'm now working on a Led lid pointer arm project, found some interesting equipment for it.
This will be only done in the next year.
The dimmer is a tricky thing because mine works correctly. The whole instruments panel is hardly to see when I activate it. Sometimes I still think I'm only hallucinating :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Walcz, are you sure these are T10 and not T5 fittings?
Yes I am. By the way i have modded these bulbs, so 2 SMDs are pointing towards the channel now. (Same brightness)
 
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