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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I got the injection malfunction light when starting, after a few kms it went away, sometimes it stayed longer.
Consumption was up with about 1l/100km

Went to the dealer, diagnosed it and the lambda sonde had an error.
Diagnosed it live and it went out of range asking too rich mixture.
Changed the sonde.
Problem was less but still it came on just after I picked it up :mad:

Its occuring more now, not in the morning when its cold but when I come home and then leave again after about 1h its typically on for a few kms.

Anyone got an idea before I let the dealer loose on it again?

Cheers,

Jochen
 

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The lambda fault is always the first to pick up. With all the other data from the engine (assuming all the sensors give a signal- even if one is incorrect), the ECU calculates fuelling and igniton advance. The lambda sensor (once the engine is fairly warm) then verifies the data by checking the exhaust gases for oxygen content. If it doesn't tie up, it flags up a lambda fault.

The real fault is likely to be the coolant temperature sensor. Failing that, the ambient air temperature sensor, but I go for fuel! ;)
 

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At the risk of sounding snotty, boring and repetitive...well, no risk really, this is definately going to sound that way.

Please, please, please, check the bl55dy lambda heater fuse & relay before throwing money at it. Even if you buy a new one of each it'll only cost you £5 tops and it takes 5 minutes.

If you get this intermittent warning lamp, poor fuel consumption and a 1224 error code, try the darn fuse & relay trick.

The worst that can happen is you'll end up with a spare fuse and relay. It could well be many, many other things (and probably is in this case), but this is a common problem that is quick, cheap and easy to check, even for the most 'practically challenged' Alfa owner.

Good grief :rolleyes:
 
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Is this true of the 8v too ?

I don't get an injector light on, but consumption has gone up and low rev driving is very unsmooth.
 

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ChrisH,

It's gotta be worth a try if it has a heated lambda probe. (I don't know for sure that an 8v does have, but strongly suspect it will).

It's essential the probe gets hot in order to work. If it cools off (low revs/load and heater fuse gone), it goes effectively open circuit, the ECU detects this and substitutes a default value. Once you put your foot back in it, the added exhaust flow heats it up again and all is well.


Earlier non-heated systems had the probe close enough to the engine that the heat from passing exhaust gas was always enough to keep it hot once the car had warmed up a wee bit.

The other fairly common problem in this area seems to be connection problems between probe and loom. Sometimes caused by water ingress, sometimes by iffy workmanship.

The normal fuse is a 7.5A I think, but a 10A is fine. Swap the relay as well....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ChrisS said:
At the risk of sounding snotty, boring and repetitive...well, no risk really, this is definately going to sound that way.

Please, please, please, check the bl55dy lambda heater fuse & relay before throwing money at it. Even if you buy a new one of each it'll only cost you £5 tops and it takes 5 minutes.

If you get this intermittent warning lamp, poor fuel consumption and a 1224 error code, try the darn fuse & relay trick.

The worst that can happen is you'll end up with a spare fuse and relay. It could well be many, many other things (and probably is in this case), but this is a common problem that is quick, cheap and easy to check, even for the most 'practically challenged' Alfa owner.

Good grief :rolleyes:
Ok will do, thanks for the advice.
I admitt not being very clever in this but Im getting a bit !!!!ed of with my dealer cause he seems to be as clever about it as me which is not what I pay him for ...

Jochen
 
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diagnose my 155 1.8 16v

hi all
yesterday diagnose my 155 the result is error the EGR valve but my mechanic dont know where is located?
do u all had know?
 

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Sorry it sounded like a rant Jochen...but this topic comes up a lot, and it pains me to see people paying dealers to not fix their car. I certainly don't want to come across as knowing it all.....it took me the best part of 2 years off & on to find the fault on my own car. I tried everything. Lambda probes, ECU, ECU loom, AFM, TPS, temp sender, tiny leaks in exhaust, strip & clean all the oil vapour pipes, nothing made a jot of difference. What made it worse was the fact that I did check the heater fuse really early on, but after it buzzed out OK on my meter, I dismissed it. Turned out it was cracked inside and would make and break intermittently. Of course, it always managed to work when I tested it.... I eventually caught it misbehaving by measuring the volts on the lambda itself.

If I had been forced to pay a dealer it could have cost me £1000s....or maybe 50p if they happened to be any good......I did take it to one bloke who couldn't be bothered to even look. He said there was no error code stored. Shortly after that, I found out how to read the codes myself.

So, sermon over ;) ...just try the simple stuff first. Modern ECU systems are increadibly reliable on the whole. It's nearly always a duff sensor or simple piece of ancilliary wiring.

Good luck.
 

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I'm not a very observant guy so please can anyone tell me where is the fuse and relay located. A picture would be super !
My problem is (Still) very poor running in cold mornings.

Thanks a lot :rolleyes:

Hammer
 
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