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Discussion Starter #1
This is starting to drive me mad!!:mad:

A 97 2.0 TS with 125K, it makes a loud knocking noise from the drivers side rear wheel area when turning left. The faster I turn the louder and faster it gets when the weight shifts onto the right hand side of the car in a left turn.
I replaced the ARB links a couple of months ago and then I powerflexed the whole back end yesterday (with the upper wishbones)....the back end is a lot tighter but the knock is still as loud as ever. I have also looked at:
Exhaust - wobbles a little around the centre box if you give it a good pull but no knocks.
ARB - Can't see any movement at all - no knocks when pushing/pulling.
Tie Rod - Seems to be very firm.
Shocks - I have swapped the right for the left - so that rules that out.
Bump Stops - attached as far as I can see, never really messed about with these before, same on both sides.
Maybe I should have removed the spring as well when powerflexing - but it looks fine?
Any ideas most welcome:confused:
 

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Flippin 'eck..you've changed just about everything.. only thing I can say is the OE shocks can develop a knock after a high milage.. I know you've swapped them.. but maybe they are both knackered.. are they OE?? if you can expand and compress them with just you're hands and arms they are probably knackered..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The shocks are OE, I don't know if they are the originals or not. I can move them in and out by putting my weight on them - there is some resistance but they are probably a bit tired. I thought by swapping them over then it would rule it out because the knock has not swapped sides - but maybe they both need changing. Thanks...any advice on an economical set of uprated shocks - I would like to lower it a little in the not so distant future?
 

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I use 'KYB gas adjust'.. misleading name because they are not adjustable.. but a good quality shock at about 80 quid a pair.. at any good motor factors.. if you're lowering you may need something more exotic like koni adjustables.. loads about them on here.. do a search.. have you checked the upper wishbone outer ball joint??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good thinking! I did have the ball joint split when I changed the wishbone bushes but I didn't pay them much attention - I will have another look to see if it is loose. I think I read somewhere that you have put a grease nipple on yours, seems like a good idea.
 

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yea.. I bought self tapping grease nipples online.. can't remember where just google it.. anyway pumped them up with fresh grease and they've been ok since.. about 15000 miles I guess.. just give them a shot of grease once a year.. just like the old days..
 

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I had the same on mine last year knocking increased with speed when making a left turn,changed o/s/r wheel bearing. The bearing had no noise when checked just a very small amount of play.(advisory on mot) so I had it changed & no more knocking.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Arggghhh! Being the unskilled mechanic I am, I spent ages changing the O/S/R wheel bearing this weekend. The job was complicated by me shearing a bolt on the brake caliper when removing. Managed to buy a stud extractor in the end which got the remnants of the bolt out. Anyway all back together now...... but you guessed it - the knocking is still there. Shocks, exhaust or ball joint are the only things left - this is costing me an arm and a leg, not to mention the time - as I said at the beginning....arrrrgggghhh!
 

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Wrap a lump of rag around the exhaust where it passes close to the rear subframe.. dont leave it on there though..:) get a pry bar on the ball joint and jack the hub up to get it into a loaded position.. then lever the ball joint and look for play.. if all that's ok you may have to buy a new pair of shocks.. but don't blame me if.........
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks gentlemen - hopefully I will get to the bottom of it this week and end this thread! At least I am getting to know my twinny.....wife is getting jealous though! ;)
 

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You could also undo the ARB at both ends.. tie it up out of the way and go for a gentle drive.. go easy! at least it eliminates the ARB..

I've a feeling it may be your shocks.. I'm not a complete wimp and I have a hell of a job compressing new shocks.. knackered shocks can easily be compressed just by leaning on them.
 

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Just a quick check you can do. If you have any balance weights on the inner rim of the wheel, have a look to see if there's evidence of the weight hitting anything ( scoring on the weight ). I had a similar issue to you and it was the balance weight hitting the spring arm ( but in my case for reasons that you have already addressed ).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
pkr, You've cracked it! As you know from the selespeed wheel thread I have selespeed wheels on the car (fitted by the previous owner), the offset is different to that of the standard gtv wheel (by about 10mm), so the wheel sits near the suspension. Combine this with hard cornering and a balance weight on the inner rim and then we have the problem. I only noticed the knocking fault sometime after I swapped the front wheels to the back, the wheel that was previously there had a different balance weight so was not striking the trailing arm. Problem solved :).....I'll fit some spacers or perhaps swap the wheels - any advice on the maximum size spacers that I could fit front & back?
 

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Excellent. In my case I changed to some 7J 16" wheels and it immediately highlighted on cornering that the inner springarm bush was failing. Some Alfa 4mm spacers ( the 7J wheels had a 35ET ) and powerflexing the springarms fixed it for me.

You could get the official Alfa 4mm spacers at about £15 per corner. The wheels will still be inset over 5mm too much though. You may need to revert to the original GTV wheel studs with those. Otherwise you'll probably need to get 12mm or 15mm hubcentrics ( 10mm hubcentrics are not, apparently, reliable ) to return the wheel to where it should be ( approximately ) and longer studs.
 
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