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As some of you may know I'm having a maze of issues with my 159 1.9 jtdm ti, and I'm border line about get be rid of it. Sooo I'm going to offer a £50 paypal gift reward to the person who fixes my problem ( genuine honest offer ) explaining everything that has been done and what could of led to this could take a minute so bare with me ....

0: when I purchased had new turbo and cambelt kit less than 12k ago.

1: Had a lot of EGR problems so it was on and off about 10 times to be cleaned, Finanlly gave up and brought a new pierburg unit, only to find I had damaged the threads in manifold !!

2: Replaced intake manifold and swirl actuator unit + fitted new EGR valve.

3: New fuel rail pressure sensor ( as I dropped something and walloped it by accident ).

After this the car ran perfect for 2 days approx 3 hours running, as I reversed out my drive switched to 1st gear and toed it there was a bit of a grinding/misfiring sound from the right of the engine while driving and no power and runs rough. Now also is very hard to start and sometimes fuel in intake manifold ... If you turn it off and restart it right away it's not to bad, but leave it more than 10 minutes it can turn over upto 20 times like low pressure, still runs rough, idle 850, sometimes black smoke, lack of power, no error codes.

4: Replaced fuel filter (changed nothing)
4a: Stripped and cleaned fuel system recoded injectors, ECU scan said fuel pressure desired and current is tolerable, injector or reactions all fine at 1500rpm and 2000rpm injector 4 being worst at + 1.04

While persevering with this problem I now had a noise from the left side of the engine while driving that almost brought me to a stop.

5: Finally brought multi ECU scan and cables, stored errors -EGR and Motorised throttle body (noise from left) . Cleared codes and motorised throttle body returned.

6. New magneti mirelli throttle body. Noticed Lot of fuel in intake (lots).

Now this week in this hot weather my car overheated and im hoping to the point were I haven't done major damage, no dash warnings or temp light. Noticed my cooling fans didnt cut in at over 90 tried on ecu scan to actuate and nothing. Done a full scan and got U1602 (stored) - can communication error....and P*** fuel rail high pressure sensor (stored).... Haven't driven yet o see what returns.

Still not starting properly, still running rough, coolin fan system system sudden failure ... Suicidal wondering if I've warped the head or blown the gasket ... But will check ... In the mean time £50 to anyone who suggests a fix it leading to a resolution. HARD STARTING, ROUGH RUNNING, FUEL IN MANIFOLD, COOLANT SYSTEM FAILURE, CODE U1602.

Ask for any more info ... Think out the box I've tried most things on fiat, alfa, saab forum ... But could be something I've failed to check ... No idea to stupid !!!!!!!!

Thinking caps on :/
 

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Check your cam timing. Can't see how you can get fuel in the intake manifold unless the inlet cam timing is out or you have a bent inlet valve.
 

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Clean MAP with contact cleaner? Injector treatment through the tank? Check all your hoses (intercooler?) ? GET RID OF THE BLOODY EGR, BLOCK IT OFF!?!?....Start with the basics and then work your way up?

I just had a rough running problem with my Civic and my thoughts went straight to the injection system as it is tuned through a piggy back tuning box. I had: rough idle, hiccups (surges and stalls at around < 3000 much less noticeable around 4000 rpm), stalls from idle but miraculously perfect running after restart (...go figure!?) Took it to the mechanic and it ran without a problem...left the mechanic and it started up again?!?!? Troubles restarting after an 8 hour rest. Surging after 30 min running then after a hard blast... perfect!? Took off the MAP today and found it dirty but not really as dirty I would have thought (front edge with small "hairs" and surface with a film) . Cleaned it with contact cleaner and all seems to work 100% normal...I don't know what to expect tomorrow as it has been a rough week but after a chat with the mechanic he said you'll be amazed what a hair would do to a MAP reading .... I think my problem is solved.:D As for yours...??..??... regroup, start with the basics and then work your way up (again? :) )
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Clean MAP with contact cleaner? Injector treatment through the tank? Check all your hoses (intercooler?) ? GET RID OF THE BLOODY EGR, BLOCK IT OFF!?!?....Start with the basics and then work your way up?

I just had a rough running problem with my Civic and my thoughts went straight to the injection system as it is tuned through a piggy back tuning box. I had: rough idle, hiccups (surges and stalls at around < 3000 much less noticeable around 4000 rpm), stalls from idle but miraculously perfect running after restart (...go figure!?) Took it to the mechanic and it ran without a problem...left the mechanic and it started up again?!?!? Troubles restarting after an 8 hour rest. Surging after 30 min running then after a hard blast... perfect!? Took off the MAP today and found it dirty but not really as dirty I would have thought (front edge with small "hairs" and surface with a film) . Cleaned it with contact cleaner and all seems to work 100% normal...I don't know what to expect tomorrow as it has been a rough week but after a chat with the mechanic he said you'll be amazed what a hair would do to a MAP reading .... I think my problem is solved.:D As for yours...??..??... regroup, start with the basics and then work your way up (again? :) )
MAP and MAF cleaned, fuel system cleaned (in full) + wynns + redex, hoses checked, EGR has partial blanking plates.
 

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....and kudos to ya for your persistence and dedication but I wouldn't have lasted 2 cleans of the EGR before finding a way to null it altogether.... call me old school but all I ever known is that "emissions" suck the big one.

Good luck!
 

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I used to repair cars for a living, that was a long time ago. These days, I leave it to the guys who have first hand knowledge of the brand, I'm not saying main dealer mind you. I guess you are (like many) try to fix your car to save money. However, have you given any thought to the amount of money (and time, + hating your car) you have spent? You might just have saved massive money and had the car fixed quickly if you had taken it to someone who has knowledge of these problems. Know what I mean?
 

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I would check the cam timing.
When you replaced the inlet manifold did you remove the timing belt or leave it in place with the pulley bolted in place and remove the pump.
If you left the belt on the problem is when the pump pulley is in the position for the bolt holes to line up the woodruff key is at the bottom and so is tricky to get back in place properly.
If its not fitted securely it can come loose and find its way between the belt and crank pulley and cause the belt to jump a tooth.
That happened to a guy I knows Saab with the same engine
 
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