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Out for a blast yesterday as it was the bank holiday and all that....... kinda wished i hadn't:eek: Noticed my car a P1 916 Spider wasn't switching on the fans and had to pull over incase i was going to destroy the engine, car was sitting at 100o and neither fan was operating. As soon as i moved in clean air temp quickly came back to normal so i drove the back roads:cool:

Right, im going back to March early when we were snowed under and there was considerable flooding, i remember driving through a slightly flooded road and im pretty sure that its since then? Anyways.......

What are the fuses i need to be looking out for? I believe there is a 50amp Big fuse on the front bulkhead!? are there any other fuses that i should be looking at?

Any help! will be much appreciated.
 

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Thanks PG! just been out and checked and the bottom fan electrical connection is mush! im guessing these are the infamous resistors!!?
 

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Thanks PG! just been out and checked and the bottom fan electrical connection is mush! im guessing these are the infamous resistors!!?
If its not the connector on the/a fan then its the resistor, the full speed should still work with a broken resistor though..
 

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If its not the connector on the/a fan then its the resistor, the full speed should still work with a broken resistor though..

So! what's your thinking ian? I have checked the fuse box in drivers seat, checked the big red 55amp fuse up beside brake fluid. Is there anyother fuses? The electrical connector is just hanging out from the resistor, so i will take it off tomorrow eve and see if that is fubared?, im pretty sure that it was the flood water that caused this to happen and the electrical connections to the resistors are mush and therefore im going too have to do some electrical work!? Or what do you reckon fella?:)
 

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Take the connectors out of the fan resistor(s), and join them, bypasing the resistor. You will have full fan speed as soon as your car passes the first threshold, which I think is 93 degrees or so. Cheap fix. Or if you want to replace the resistors I have plenty of decent used ones in stock :)
 

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So! what's your thinking ian? I have checked the fuse box in drivers seat, checked the big red 55amp fuse up beside brake fluid. Is there anyother fuses? The electrical connector is just hanging out from the resistor, so i will take it off tomorrow eve and see if that is fubared?, im pretty sure that it was the flood water that caused this to happen and the electrical connections to the resistors are mush and therefore im going too have to do some electrical work!? Or what do you reckon fella?:)
The resistors not important as such, though in a way its good that its borken and the fan doesnt work at either speed. Check there is permenant 12v at the red wire into the fan, check the fan connection is all ok (is a superseal connector so some degree of waterproofness..) If this is all good, check the relay I100 (I99 is the slow speed)

It should have a switched 12v on one side of the coil, if the 12v is missing check fuse F4 (I think you would notice other things not working if this was blown though..locks/alarm/windows/etc)

If the fuses & relays and wiring is ok then it might be the temperature sensor.. The manual is a bit vague about where this is and how it works.. :lol: Need to dig a bit more..

ETA 98 Spider? If the chassis number is over 6023906 then it uses the ecu to control the fans, before this theres a 2 level switch on the rad.. This is easier to diagnose :D
 

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Take the connectors out of the fan resistor(s), and join them, bypasing the resistor. You will have full fan speed as soon as your car passes the first threshold, which I think is 93 degrees or so. Cheap fix. :)
This is what my auto electrician did when my fan stopped working :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The resistors not important as such, though in a way its good that its borken and the fan doesnt work at either speed. Check there is permenant 12v at the red wire into the fan, check the fan connection is all ok (is a superseal connector so some degree of waterproofness..) If this is all good, check the relay I100 (I99 is the slow speed)

It should have a switched 12v on one side of the coil, if the 12v is missing check fuse F4 (I think you would notice other things not working if this was blown though..locks/alarm/windows/etc)

If the fuses & relays and wiring is ok then it might be the temperature sensor.. The manual is a bit vague about where this is and how it works.. :lol: Need to dig a bit more..

ETA 98 Spider? If the chassis number is over 6023906 then it uses the ecu to control the fans, before this theres a 2 level switch on the rad.. This is easier to diagnose :D

Thanks ian! Its a P1 Alloy top 150bhp 2.0TS 16v. i will be lying underneath her most of this evening. If its the resistors Dan, i will be in contact:thumbs:
 

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Just sorted fan on my gtv it stopped working a few days ago, replaced resistor and now fan is cutting in again.
Took approx 5 mins to do.
 

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Take the connectors out of the fan resistor(s), and join them, bypasing the resistor. You will have full fan speed as soon as your car passes the first threshold, which I think is 93 degrees or so. Cheap fix. Or if you want to replace the resistors I have plenty of decent used ones in stock :)
Hi Pud,
Do you have a resistor for the fan on a '99 GTV phase 2 in stock?
Cheers.
 

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Yes mate, give me a bell on monday when I'm back at work and I'll sort you out with one - 01525 221 921.

Joining the wires is a very easy test to tell if you need a resistor or whether its something else and it does get you out of trouble as well, so I would suggest doing that for now.
 

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I tried removing the temperature sensor from the stat and turning the ignition on and the fan went straight to high speed which I've read means the resistor is at fault. Could it still be the relay though? I can't seem to pull those relays under the dash out, I99 and I100. Are they attached differently to the other relays on the fuse board? Don't want to damage anything if it's not at fault... I'll call Monday.
Cheers.
 

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I tried removing the temperature sensor from the stat and turning the ignition on and the fan went straight to high speed which I've read means the resistor is at fault. Could it still be the relay though? I can't seem to pull those relays under the dash out, I99 and I100. Are they attached differently to the other relays on the fuse board? Don't want to damage anything if it's not at fault... I'll call Monday.
Cheers.
Could be the relay, is more likely to be the resistor, and this is easy to check, it unscrews from the rad and a visual check should show if its broken the resistance wire, or melted the connections. If you have a multimeter its about 0.2 Ohms.
 

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I've had a good look at the resistor from the fan and it looks ok... Unfortunately, don't have a multimeter.
Unplug the resistor and bridge the connections. If the fan comes on pretty fast at just over 95ish degrees you know the resistor is at fault. Easy test to rule-out the resistor.
 

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Hi, Checked the resistor and it seems to be working ie. showing zero change in resistance when measured with a multimeter... Time to check the relay?
Cheers.
 

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Hi, Checked the resistor and it seems to be working ie. showing zero change in resistance when measured with a multimeter... Time to check the relay?
Cheers.
I would seriously suggest using the above mentioned test - bypassing the resistor from the circuit completely will either eliminate the problem (resistor is at fault) or do nothing (relay is at fault). All it takes is to stick a length of wire in one plug and the other end of the wire in the other plug.
 

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Hi, I've bypassed the resistor using the test suggested and the fan came on fast speed at 95ish degrees. Replacement resistor it is then...
Cheers.
 

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I thought so - the relays are usually pretty good, resistors are always falling apart.. You could always leave the wires joined, if you can put up with the super loud fan :lol:
 
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