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Hi Everyone,

I have recently acquired a 2007 147JTDm with the CF4 inlet manifold. After reading about the CF4 swirl valve failures I decided to deflap it. The inlet manifold is off and ready to deflap. I just wanted to confirm some details before I proceed.

To remove the swirl flaps it looks like the following needs to be done:
1. remove flap from spindle
2. remove spindle from manifold
3. plug spindle hole with screw (tap M8 and thread seal/locktite)
repeat for remaining flaps
4. reassemble manifold with rack rod, spring and motor assembly (see photo below) so the ecu thinks everything is aok

reassemble remainder of car and enjoy :)

please let me know if this will work or if I've missed anything.
 

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Pretty much spot on.... File off and smooth the end of the thread so the air flow isn't disturbed and use a Doughty washer under the bolt head. Give the manifold a clean out while you're at it too. Discard the rod and associated crap, just leave the motor in-situ and make sure it's connected.

If you don't have all the flaps present then I'm afraid it's head off! Fingers crossed though.
 

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I didn’t put the rack rod etc back on mine I done away with the lot,plugged holes as you mentioned and just left motor in place
 

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I would suggest , after doing this that you remove the diesel pump and its mounting bracket , otherwise you have to grind away parts of the bracket to allow you to remove the manifold . there are 4 bolts holding the bracket in place the lower one below the manifold requires you also remove the swirl flap actuator first which is held on by 3 Torx bolts , the third torx bolt visable on top of the manifold near the glow plugs. In the pictures I have circled the 3 bolts securing the pump bracket to the engine block, a socket extension will get to the top 2 (13mm socket) and a goose neck spanner as shown for the lower , you can see the actuator which is in the way behind the spanner. You can leave the pump in place on the bracket but of course you need to remove the cam belt. This is how I would do it next time.
Hope this helps , the job is easier looking back, you may question your decision to attempt it when you are mid way through . Sorry no pictures of the swirl flap actuator bolts.
 

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whilst we are on this subject, does anyone have the program to delete the flap actuator from the ecu? i would like to get rid of the actuator and tidy up the wiring to give more engine bay room
 

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whilst we are on this subject, does anyone have the program to delete the flap actuator from the ecu? i would like to get rid of the actuator and tidy up the wiring to give more engine bay room
Absolutely seems a shame to put this now redundant component back it just takes up space which is much needed. I have deleted the EGR in software and used a blanking plate, it would be nice to ditch the EGR valve and plumbing as well. If we remove enough of these troublesome add ons it could be a reliable engine which is easy to work on and maintain
 

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...it would be nice to ditch the EGR valve and plumbing as well. If we remove enough of these troublesome add ons it could be a reliable engine which is easy to work on and maintain
Any modifications to the emissions control systems is an MOT fail. For example blanking the EGR is an MOT fail.

Mine's been through 2 MOTs blanked, the blank is thicker than the standard gasket and could be picked up by an eagle-eyed tester.

Removing the EGR completely would/should be obvious.

Pub
 

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Any modifications to the emissions control systems is an MOT fail. For example blanking the EGR is an MOT fail.

Mine's been through 2 MOTs blanked, the blank is thicker than the standard gasket and could be picked up by an eagle-eyed tester.

Removing the EGR completely would/should be obvious.

Pub
Fortunately its still legal to remove EGR for our WOF requirements and arguably emissions are better on older cars with EGR delete
 
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