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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
Does anybody know if the turbo can be rebuild on my JTDM? 1(170 cloverleaf) and if so any companies that can do it? I've read mixed opinions on wether or not the turbo can be reconditioned as apparently when the turbo gets damaged, and in my case the bearings are dried up and screeching, the housing get's damaged and can't be repaired. However, I have seen reconditioned turbo units on eBay for the JTD, but not for my particular engine. If worst comes to worse, it looks like i may have to dig deep for a new turbo, which i really don't want to do. I think I'd be able to fit the turbo myself so I'm mainly just asking if they can be reconditioned, and the price of them new?
 

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a very good company is Turbo Technics in Northampton , ive had turbo's from them over the past 25 years and never had to return one
 

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I would get a place like Turbo technics to refurbish it.

Whilst they are at it they could also modify it to give you more power...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
a very good company is Turbo Technics in Northampton , ive had turbo's from them over the past 25 years and never had to return one
New ones are available from JTDTuning, Turbo's : Turbo 1.9 JTDm 16v
I would get a place like Turbo technics to refurbish it.

Whilst they are at it they could also modify it to give you more power...

I'll give Turbo technics a call tomorrow and see what they can offer. However, i have read that recondishioned turbo's are never the same, as the turbo housing it'self get's worn?

I was expecting the price of a new factory garret turbo to be a bit more expensive than £660 Edraven. So that's good news, i doubt I'd be able to get it cheaper anywhere else?

It's a problem i need to get fixed in the next few weeks, I'm surprised the turbo hasn't just seized up already. I did a 260 mile round trip today and it really brought it to my attention how it needs to be done. The dry bearings are making such a loud screech it just sounds knackured.
 

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How about going to hybrid route. I don't know much about it, but I know if mine ever pops this will be the first route I would look at. Downside is, you need map. Not sure if you need anything else. I am sure Damian will be here soon to let you know more.
 

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How about going to hybrid route. I don't know much about it, but I know if mine ever pops this will be the first route I would look at. Downside is, you need map. Not sure if you need anything else. I am sure Damian will be here soon to let you know more.
Not much more expensive than that replacement unit, think I paid about £750 for my hybrid, but then you will need it remapped to take advantage of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not really interested in re mapping this one. I had a remap done on my old 147, and wasn't overly happy with it. I'm satisfied with the power mine puts out currently. So I think it's either a case of having to buy a new turbo (£660) or getting hold of a reconditioned one, or having mine reconditioned. What's involved with changing the turbo? I have most tools available. Is there any specialist tools I need? And how big a job is it to replace?
 

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It's a pretty easy job and access is also pretty good, no real special tools needed just your usual sockets spanners etc.
Only thing to be careful of is the oil supply pipes, may be worth replacing them as they can degrade which may be the cause of your's failing, and also follow any directions with the new turbo to the letter or if it fails (which has happened) you will have no comeback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's a pretty easy job and access is also pretty good, no real special tools needed just your usual sockets spanners etc.
Only thing to be careful of is the oil supply pipes, may be worth replacing them as they can degrade which may be the cause of your's failing, and also follow any directions with the new turbo to the letter or if it fails (which has happened) you will have no comeback.
Thanks Ed, I think I'll just get a new turbo from the site you linked. Is there anything else I should be replacing as well as the turbo, gaskets, oil pipes.. Is that everything?
 

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Thanks Ed, I think I'll just get a new turbo from the site you linked. Is there anything else I should be replacing as well as the turbo, gaskets, oil pipes.. Is that everything?
I'd be tempted to do the VNT vacuum hoses at the same time...

Can often cause headaches down the line by going brittle and cracking, causing a loss of suction to the actuator and a consequent loss of high-boost from the turbo...

Get a few meters of 3mm ID silicone vacuum hose (a few pounds for a few meters on eBay), and re-plumb the vac lines as far back behind the engine as you can reach.. I got as far as the elbow connection beneath the PCV valve as it turns behind the block... Then gave up...

Oh and be suuuuuper careful if/when disconnecting the vac line from the solenoid valve (mounted to the back of the airbox), the plastic connectors go brittle over time and mis-handling can easily snap them off.. Turns your £4 improvement into a £40 replacement part...

Other than that - have a thorough inspection of the rubber intake hoses (all three of them!)...

The ribbed one that connects the MAF to the compressor intake can go brittle and split over time (can contribute to early turbo failure as it allows un-filtered air straight into the compressor!), and the two smooth boost hoses can crack/split over time...

Good news is that Autolusso sell top notch heavy duty silicone replacements for all three of these hoses, and they come with a lifetime guarantee!

Thankfully the two smooth hoses are super easy to access if you decide not to do them straight away, about 20-30 min job all in.. The ribbed intake hose is a bit more of a PITA to access, so I'd be more inclined to just replace that one up front as a preventative measure (same as the vac hoses, just a bit more expensive!)..

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks editor :) I'll be sure to check all the intake hoses and if necessary will renew with silicone ones. For the sake of a few quid I will get some 3mm hosing as well of the eBay and will inspect the VNT hoses carefully and renew if needed!
 

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Hi
Dont want to step on anyones toes with this but you could get a new chra for about £100ish its a simple operation to change over and saves a few quid. All you need are the numbers from your turbo to match them. I have done several and havent had one fail yet. As said above these turbos arent too difficult to remove then after that you just swap out the centre as a unit so not technical and anyone handy with a spanner can do it.
Iether way make sure you prime the new turbo with synthetic and do oil and filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi
Dont want to step on anyones toes with this but you could get a new chra for about £100ish its a simple operation to change over and saves a few quid. All you need are the numbers from your turbo to match them. I have done several and havent had one fail yet. As said above these turbos arent too difficult to remove then after that you just swap out the centre as a unit so not technical and anyone handy with a spanner can do it.
Iether way make sure you prime the new turbo with synthetic and do oil and filter
Well as I'm not sure how long I'm planning on keeping the car, I'm after the cheapest solution, hence looking at recon turbo's. Is a chra just a replacement of the internals of the turbo? I've been told it's the bearings and the "inlet" part that's dried up and sticking on mine. Where would I source a chra from and how could I get the part numbers first without having to remove the turbo?
 

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eper says the 170 is part number 55214063
the same as the jtd 16v as long as 150hp and the last incarnation was the 777250 I believe
heres an example chra
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Tur...545384?hash=item4d35a5e168:g:1vcAAOSwyQtVsgNZ

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MELETT-TU...701043?hash=item419b23fc33:g:nSMAAOSwYHxWM21C

as a reputable chra will be pre balanced and ideal if your housings havnt been damaged at all, and the vnt mechanism is not melted or seized in any way, which you may not find until you strip off your old turbo.
a good mr muscle clean of vnt ring / and rinse would be time well spent if you did do just chra
for sure this is pretty cheap , but im not sure sending to be recon was much over £200
cross link some of the numbers in links above you may drop lucky on complete turbo cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
eper says the 170 is part number 55214063
the same as the jtd 16v as long as 150hp and the last incarnation was the 777250 I believe
heres an example chra
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Tur...545384?hash=item4d35a5e168:g:1vcAAOSwyQtVsgNZ

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MELETT-TU...701043?hash=item419b23fc33:g:nSMAAOSwYHxWM21C

as a reputable chra will be pre balanced and ideal if your housings havnt been damaged at all, and the vnt mechanism is not melted or seized in any way, which you may not find until you strip off your old turbo.
a good mr muscle clean of vnt ring / and rinse would be time well spent if you did do just chra
for sure this is pretty cheap , but im not sure sending to be recon was much over £200
cross link some of the numbers in links above you may drop lucky on complete turbo cheap.


Thanks for checking the part numbers, haven't heard of eper before! This is all very interesting, as it could well be a much cheaper fix than i was expecting. I suppose at this stage it's mainly guess work though, as I'm not entirely sure what's damaged on my turbo. I took it to a mechanic some months ago now but i can't remember exactly what he said it was on the turbo that was failing, but i think it's bearing related. Are there any checks i can do on the turbo without taking it off, as I want to be without the car for as little time as possible. Does the chra include the bearings or not?
 

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have a look at pics here
Technical: jtd turbocharger - The FIAT Forum

if you go chra way your basically going to be unbolting the turbine housing, and compressor housing from your old chra and after some cleaning of the housings and vnt bolting them to the new chra.

worth checking actuator is working as should also as if that's leaking or jerky a new one is another £50 odd

I got quite a few vids up on turbo bits here(theres probably 10 or so on turbo bits /vnt /actuator
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcppWsFuNfc

you can feel the shaft from inside the compressor housing with the inlet pipe removed(ideally with downpipe off also as you could push pull to feel axial play
you may have access to a usb camera/ borescope and see inside the housings, or even a few minutes with a camera phone could yield enough evidence .
IMG_1375.jpg

hopefully not
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...mpressor+housing+damage&imgrc=ofUNUR_luSkLaM:
or
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...ed=0ahUKEwjA7fjp3IHKAhWFtRoKHTJ5Ch0Q_AUIBygC#
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That's a great help, thanks! I guess the only way to know for sure, it to remove the turbo and inspect and go from there. Fingers crossed I won't need a brand new one, and my one is either able to be reconditioned, or I can fit a chra. Hopefully get time in the next 2 weeks to be able to remove it and we'll see what damage has been done.
 
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