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Yes you can add oilcooler with oil filter adapter plate, but that one doesent have a thermostat for oil temperature.... and that is not the best thing... as it cools oil even when it is not needed or not desired.
AFAIK all Alfa 16V diesels have oilcooler with thermostat.
If oilcooler is from the same type of car, it is very easy to install it, just replace water/oil heat exchanger with original oilcooler plate from 16V diesel, and install oil coooler in original place.

Only problem could be that some models of 147/156/GT have coil for cooling oil for steering in the place where oil cooler should be.
Sollution for this is to replace the steering oil cooler coil with the steering oil cooling pipes from some other 147/156/GT model. This steering oil cooling pipe comes in front of the A/C radiator.

I am thinking to install this oil cooling modification on my 2.0 TS, since I have oil temp gauge, and oil engine temperature goes to 110-115 C very fast during driving uphill or fast highway driving.
Note that water temperature never goes over 90 C. I have checked the "real" water temperature using OBD diagnostics, and in real world it goes up much more, but AFAIK on 147 (but not on 156) water temperature gauge is programed not to go over 90 except when there is a real problem.

I also think that this high oil temeprature is one of the main problem resulting in failing 2.0 TS engines (right after high oil consumption which leads to low engine oil, and of course broken belts)
 

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And let's not forget that by removing water/oil heat exchanger oil with not additionaly heat up water (when oil goes over 100 C). Whole engine will be much cooler which is important factor especially in remapped engines.
 

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@Joss
i guess in case of an oil cooler i'd go for the 16V part too...but not jet - i run a relatively high tem. Oil (Mobile 1 W5-W50)
alsow keep in mind - the engine oil is not primary to cool the engine cause it can't absorb much heat energy (compared to water).
It takes way longer to heat up - but i have to admit - i don't have a clue how high Engine Oil Temp actually gets. Second thing - if the thermostat is set up to early you'll never reach operational oil-temps on a highway run.
I got a Mocal Oil cooler on my 200sx it's thermostat was set to 70°C (factory) and this was way to early for normal driving. temp never reached anything past 80..... now imagine your JTD running with oil which never reaches operational tempertures.... :/
My JTD used to have the problem of open stat. So it used to sit at 70 but now with the new stat it sits bang on 90 so I know that the oil temp should now be coming to the correct level. If I drive normally the temp never changes from 90. Even normal acceleration is ok. Its only when you really give it the beans and I mean drag strip here I come styley that the temp rises but levels off at below where the fans kick in.
We still go back to the problem that inlet temps are what is causing the problem. No matter what engine you have. Melted pistons means it won't work! :lol: The larger FMIC helps with this which is why on a tuned engine it is very important as inlet temps are bigger than standard due to teh higher boost. Yes pulling the temp away from the block after is important too but you are putting extra stress on components that can be avoided IMO.:thumbs:
 

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AFAIK all Alfa 16V diesels have oilcooler with thermostat.
If oilcooler is from the same type of car, it is very easy to install it, just replace water/oil heat exchanger with original oilcooler plate from 16V diesel, and install oil coooler in original place.

Only problem could be that some models of 147/156/GT have coil for cooling oil for steering in the place where oil cooler should be.
Sollution for this is to replace the steering oil cooler coil with the steering oil cooling pipes from some other 147/156/GT model. This steering oil cooling pipe comes in front of the A/C radiator.

I am thinking to install this oil cooling modification on my 2.0 TS, since I have oil temp gauge, and oil engine temperature goes to 110-115 C very fast during driving uphill or fast highway driving.
Note that water temperature never goes over 90 C. I have checked the "real" water temperature using OBD diagnostics, and in real world it goes up much more, but AFAIK on 147 (but not on 156) water temperature gauge is programed not to go over 90 except when there is a real problem.

I also think that this high oil temeprature is one of the main problem resulting in failing 2.0 TS engines (right after high oil consumption which leads to low engine oil, and of course broken belts)
True. I have purchased "flat" power steering cooler from GT that is a curved cooling pipe without the fins on the other 16v ones. This wil fit easily in front of FMIC and replaces original "hose coil".

About the coolant temp: good point, I will log that temperature in the future to see what it really is!
 

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The question of the day is, if that 8V oil pump is compatible enough with 16V one. Respectively if 8V oil charger can be replaced with 16V thermostat and all the 16V piping and oil cooler.
 

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I'm a bit curious and worrying about power steering heat exchanger/coil replacement, as 8V and 16V uses complete different piping. 8V - 1, 2, 3, 6, while 16V - 8, 5
 

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Oil pump is not important, only mounting place for oil-water heat exchanger / oil cooler plate.
AFAIK mounting is the same.

Tested on 145/146 petrol/diesel, and planning to test it on 147 TS.
If it is the same on petrol/diesel combination, it is sure the same on diesel 8V/16V, but still has to be proven.
 

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I'm a bit curious and worry about power steering heat exchanger/coil replacement, as 8V and 16V uses complete different piping. 8V - 1, 2, 3, 6, while 16V - 8, 5
Not a problem, this part of steering piping is low presure.
Depending of the 156/147 piping in the car just have to connect end of the piping to the new steering cooler pipe with the flexible pipe/tube.
BTW there are lots fo piping types on 147/156 - 147 TS has piping like left on the picture but with cooling coil, not with the cooling pipe that goes in the front of radiator
Just be carefull to use special pipes/tubes for hydraulic oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
My JTD used to have the problem of open stat. So it used to sit at 70 but now with the new stat it sits bang on 90 so I know that the oil temp should now be coming to the correct level. If I drive normally the temp never changes from 90. Even normal acceleration is ok. Its only when you really give it the beans and I mean drag strip here I come styley that the temp rises but levels off at below where the fans kick in.
We still go back to the problem that inlet temps are what is causing the problem. No matter what engine you have. Melted pistons means it won't work! :lol: The larger FMIC helps with this which is why on a tuned engine it is very important as inlet temps are bigger than standard due to teh higher boost. Yes pulling the temp away from the block after is important too but you are putting extra stress on components that can be avoided IMO.:thumbs:
you got a point there - melted pistons are bad....a real let down... (been there...)
 

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Don't worry I'm not trying to steer you away from the original thought. The rad is a a good move and on the 16v as standard for a good reason. Plus bonus. The pics have just solved my warming up problem. I would appear that the ducting that clips onto my oil cooler is not there. Someones taken it off and I didn't know it was supposed to have one so that won't help:lol: Have to get ordered asap! :D
 

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I think that water cooler is not the problem (as 8V and 16V is the same size). If you want to upgrade, upgrade the fan setup to the twin fan. But maybe another thing that would really help a much to keep engine temp at the right level is removing the EGR cooler. Or at least block it at exhaust side (Joel has removed it completely if I noticed it from the pictures right).

To the oil charger/cooler mod. By replacing the charger with thermostat, adding the piping and cooler, it will be needed to add appropriate volume of oil to the circuit I suppose. Doesn't it need to change an oil pan as well??
 

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To the oil charger/cooler mod. By replacing the charger with thermostat, adding the piping and cooler, it will be needed to add appropriate volume of oil to the circuit I suppose. Doesn't it need to change an oil pan as well??

Why? You just have to add more oil to the system.
 

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Why? You just have to add more oil to the system.
Because don't want to drown the engine in the oil ;-) But I've checked the specs, and 16V are advised to use the same volume of oil (4,4l) as 8V so ... :confused:

Probably the best and proper way would be to pour these 4.4l of oil, warm the engine (to open the thermostat and get the oil to the cooler circuit) and then pour the oil to the max sign on the dip stick.
 

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Probably the best and proper way would be to pour these 4.4l of oil, warm the engine (to open the thermostat and get the oil to the cooler circuit) and then pour the oil to the max sign on the dip stick.
I would do it like that :)

You even do not have to drain the engine completely if there is fresh oil inside. When you remove the oil filter, you can return the same amount of oil back. Then, just add oil as needed to the max.
 

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When I replace oil on my car I disconnect the oil cooler pipes to drain all the used oil from the cooler... There is a bit less than half a litre of oil in there.
 

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...If you want to upgrade, upgrade the fan setup to the twin fan. But maybe another thing that would really help a much to keep engine temp at the right level is removing the EGR cooler...
I completely removed EGR cooler, because my EGR is inactive (EGR is removed too). Instead of it, now I use simple bypass hose (about 65cm long)...
Additionally, instead of OEM radiator fan, which is too thick, I put one SPAL Ø385mm fan with 2200m3/h airflow. My real coolant temp (according FES) is about 93°C, but dashboard instrument shows few degrees smaller temp.
Instead of original steering oil cooler spiral (which is cracked in small car accident) I put DIY spiral copper pipe...

What is your opinion about Selenia WR 5W-40 (almost synthetic) as recommended oil for our JTD engines regards to its behavior on high oil temp conditions?
In next few days I will to change oil and I think that maybe Mobil one 0W-40 (full synthetic) will be good alternative...
 

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Discussion Starter #39
@dusan we are getting a little carried away... but i can tell you my experiance with mobile 0W-40 on a 2.2 CD-Diesel (Nissan [email protected] 103KW). It was so thin the engine suddenly started drinking oil (which it never did on 5 or 10W40).... i think a 0W oil only makes any sense if you live in verry cold climate. Otherwise a good full synthetic 5W will do :) Running Mobile 5W-50 as this is WAY more temperture stable than an 0W-40 Oil (remember tuned engine...) and is still verry pumpable (not like honey) if cold - so it will lubricate the bearings pretty fast :)

@Yan.Ko
at least in germany the standard 8V Radiator on the 156 is only 24mm thick - compared to the 16V's 42mm - and this is definately not same size ;)
 

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I completely removed EGR cooler, because my EGR is inactive (EGR is removed too). Instead of it, now I use simple bypass hose (about 65cm long)...
Additionally, instead of OEM radiator fan, which is too thick, I put one SPAL Ø385mm fan with 2200m3/h airflow. My real coolant temp (according FES) is about 93°C, but dashboard instrument shows few degrees smaller temp.
Instead of original steering oil cooler spiral (which is cracked in small car accident) I put DIY spiral copper pipe...

What is your opinion about Selenia WR 5W-40 (almost synthetic) as recommended oil for our JTD engines regards to its behavior on high oil temp conditions?
In next few days I will to change oil and I think that maybe Mobil one 0W-40 (full synthetic) will be good alternative...
I'm using Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (full synthetic) from the beginnig and haven't any thoughts of changing it. Don't know how about Selenia, but I've compared Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 and 0W-40 specs and it seems that 0W-40 can just withstand few degrees lower temp and has also a bit higher kinematic [email protected]°C, which is IMHO not good for turbo.
 
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