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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, In need of help again,

Q4 is built up and by the looks of everything its ready to go, however its refusing to start,
I turn the ignition on and first I hear a clicking noise from some sort of device connected to the breather hose which comes off the main inlet pipe to the manifold, sometimes simultaneously(spelling :rolleyes: ) with the ignition going on it will backfire and spit rust from the exhaust all over my Dads spider :D , I find this unusual seeing as the engie hasnt even turned yet :confused: :confused:

Once I try to start, the engine will turn over and most times catch for a milisecond and make the starter motor speed up but then goes to normal turning over with no much happening :confused: Tried some of that "start you ba5tard" spray stuff and is the same.

I have just dumped a gallon of Optimax in seeing as the car hasnt run for about a year and a half I think, didnt seem to help,
at the beginning the fuel filter was leaking from where I had changed it and bodged a dodgy copper washer on, fixed that(all but a tiny drip) with no change.

Battery eventually discharged and gave up, I have checked for spark on Cyl1, petrol is getting through, timing is correct, electrics and fuses seem ok,
I did change the chip back to standard from the Squadra and the code light does not stay on.

What can be wrong? Thanks for any help, it really is appreciated ;)

Jack
 

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Seems very odd that it backfires with the ignition on :confused:

Is the spark there when the engine is cranked ???

Are you sure its getting fuel into the cylinder`s and not just through the fuel rail

If its attempting to start briefly it might be due to errr ...................valves not seated correctly due to it being stood or hydraulic tappets not opening the valves properly due to lack of oil causing an "air lock" in themmight just need spinning over a lot faster to get some oil pressure to them

It`s poss that the rotor arm is goosed i had a Rover that would`nt fire up and just caught every now and then and the rotor arm was faulty and it will also flood itself if this is the case

Finally have you got all the air intake pipes on the right way round and all the wiring plugs on and on the right sensors/connections

Other than that i`m struggling but will have a think :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers speedy, there seems to be petrol getting in to the cylinders, it sprays up when I turned the engine over with the plugs out, and there is a spark when it is cranked,
As far as I know all connections are fine, is a rotor arm a thing thats spins and hits connections on a distributor cap to make the circuit for a spark :confused: , if so it doesnt have one, the leads lead in to two sets of coil packs,
the oil pressure gauge does give a reading but not much when cranking, thanks for the suggestions :D

Jack
 

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Did`nt realise it had coil packs thought it was on a Distributor least that`s what it shows in the Manual :confused:

Have you got the firing order right?????????

Silly question but have you checked to see if its got good Compression
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not such a silly question cause no I havent, to buggery if it hasnt! :eek:

We havent got a compression tester here, are they expensive, may have to find someone a borrow, is there an amateurish way of doing it? :rolleyes: :eek:

i got this from the parts CD, I hope it is corect for my car! :eek:
 

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You can get a cheap compression tester from Halfrauds etc for about a tenner i think ;)

An amauterish way and its very amauterish is to take a plug out and try and hold your thumb over the hole while its being cranked...................should push your thumb off if its got a good compression

Told yer it was amauterish :rolleyes:

Have you got a good earth from the body to the engine??

Just thought how old is the fuel in the tank if its been stood for a while it may have "gone off"
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I may get that compression tester, knowing me il attach myself to the engine! earths are clean, is a good way to measure it... get tester, one lead on +terminal of battery and check voltage with other lead on the earths, if its the same as the battery then all is good I guess :confused:
or is it a simple continuity test between body and engine, my digi tester(cheapo out of maplins) only says yay or nay not to whether it may be there but poor :confused:

i chucked in a gallon of optimax as I thought the fuel may be off, I think it has reached the engine by now but not certain,
ta
 

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If you are unsure about the earth, just run a lead from a nut on the block to another nut on the body. It's not going to short or cause problems as the chassis/block is all negative earth anyway.
It sounds like your TDC sensor to me, fuel seems to be getting to where it's needed, and spark has been tested... Check connections!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right, Thanks for all the advice guys, TDC sensor I checked out this morning, looks ok but I gave the connection a spray up anyway for safe measure,

nothing changed until I put the squadra chip back in then first time almost it fired up! :D :) A faulty standard chip :confused: :confused:
It ticks over and revs rough as a rough thing but at least its something, there is a ton of smoke pouring off the exhaust manifold and it looks llike its getting very hot but I expect this effect is normal with all the work its had :confused:

Iv only had it running for about 5 mins now, I know its very early days but it doesnt rev over 1.5K, it just cuts out, I will go give it another spin soon, may just need a run in/clear out, :eek:

Jack
 

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Do you have a CAT? Is it blocked?

Whoops... just re-read your post... Yes, smoke will pour off the block and exhaust for a couple of mins alright.
Look for a post from Rick on reving over 1.5k. He had the problem and it was a sensor on the flywheel... a something disk sensor... :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think it has a CAT, looks like two, one either side of the prop shaft, should I be able to see clear through it?

May go have a play with it, might explian the popping,

The second to last box is sounding like its been shot to bits inside, dont think its MOTable so powerflow it will be, but its a very complex system by the looks of it!

I hope there are no sensors at fault, Iv never liked messing with electrics(then why did I buy an Alfa :confused: :mad:)
Thanks for your help, :D
 

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marlon said:
Hmmmm....he put it down to the AFM :confused:
Oh, Rick's problem? Yeah, maybe that... seems to be the cause of most problems! (that or the damn lambda! :p )
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alex replaced the lambda just before it came off the road I think, it looks new anyway,

ruddy CAT is rusted to the exhuast, time for blowtorch! :mad:

what should I expect to see once it is off, straight through?

Cant see an obvious air flow meter like on other cars, unless it the thing that clicks away for about 10 secs when I turn the igniton on, it connects via a hose coming off the main inlet pipe :confused:

Think I need to contact an itergrale specialist tommorrow morning, thanks for the contacts BTW Evo-Number-One! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yup. all seems on properly, im hoping to take the CAT off and find something like a mouse inside to explain it all, will get back to you with findings! :D
 

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alfajack said:
ruddy CAT is rusted to the exhuast, time for blowtorch! :mad:
what should I expect to see once it is off, straight through?
:D
No, just look for large build-ups of carbon/oil/rust on it. If you find any, best to leave the CAT off till you have a fully working engine, otherwise you'll poision it with fuel/oil/rust... :(

AFM is a black plastic pipe section with a group of wires running into it located between the air-filter and the butterfly valve.
 

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Oh, CAT will shatter if you drop/hit it... it's made of ceramic.
If you can see through it, that is a good thing in a way... as in it will be free-flowing!
Not good for the MOT though!
 
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