Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a y2002 156 in black/brown and I like the high gloss I've seen on others which have been clayed

Local car valeter offers that service, and says he'd need to cut the paintwork back before claying.

Do I need to be cautious about this treatment, please?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,713 Posts
I've always washed the car really well with a high pressure hose and good shampoo off course. Then clay bar the car, then use my DA to cut the paint work with a medium compound and then use the DA to polish the car, finally a coast of wax and your good to go for 6 months in all weather conditions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
466 Posts
As above claying should be done before 'cutting' as it is done to remove contamination. Try the G3 clay mitt, I found it works really well and is a lot easier than using a bar. Follow the instructions and go for it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
As above claying should be done before 'cutting' as it is done to remove contamination. Try the G3 clay mitt, I found it works really well and is a lot easier than using a bar. Follow the instructions and go for it.

:thumbs:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Deffenetly clay before cutting, it defeats the purpose of cuttin if you clay after, some clays can leave a little marring so best to do it before the cut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,273 Posts
If your local Valetor is saying he needs to cut the paint back before claying he's talking out of his arse and you should run away as fast as you can.
I hope he doesn't wash the cars with sponges either.

Claying is a very simple process, no way in hell would I pay someone to clay my car for me.
I really like bilt hambers clay as it's cheap but an excellent product and you can use water as a clay lube.
Before claying give the car a wash using the two bucket method. While normally you should use a ph neutral shampoo, as you're going to be claying the car, use something like fairy liquid, as you'll be stripping any wax that's left on the paint off it anyway with the clay (you won't strip any paint with fairy liquid).

Once clayed you can either decide to polish or wax. To be honest if it was me, unless I had access to a DA, I'd apply a good wax to it. The work needed to polish a car by hand without a machine, is not worth the reward.

If she's never been clayed before, be in for a treat. The car will feel as smooth as glass.
Just make sure that when you're claying that you fold the bar regularly and that you don't drop the clay bar, as then it's useless and needs to be thrown away (helps to cut bar in quarters to reduce the risk of losing a full clay bar, which isn't fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
Be scared of valeters. Very very scared. Do it yourself. It's fun and most rewarding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,233 Posts
If you want a high gloss, you will only get that with a polish. Not claying and not waxing.

Clay removes residue/contamination that's stuck to the paint. It makes the paint feel smooth and that makes it easier to wash and wax .. and helps the appearance .. but it doesn't give you a deep shine on its own.

Wax just protects whatever is underneath. Ideally that is a clayed and polished surface but it doesn't have to be... so wax can enhance the shine but won't give you one if the paint is rough/faded/marred.

Polish flattens the paint top coat and removes marring, blemishes and simple scratches. You should clay first so that the contaminants don't get dragged over the paint, adding more fine scratches like the ones you're trying to remove.

Polishing by definition wears away a micro-layer of your paint/top-coat.. so you can't polish the beast too hard or too often. Once or twice a year if you're using a machine.. otherwise your top coat will become thinner and thinner and may start to wear through.

A valeter wotth his beans will measure the paint thickness so he knows how far he can safely go. It's better to be cautious with a machine. A Dual-Action machine with a mild polish to start with.. just using an aggressive polish for real problem areas. Remember that any scratch that goes through to the primer will never polish out...

You CAN polish by hand.. but it's a MoFo of a job unless you have arms like Popeye.

Ralf S.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
87,335 Posts
If you are going to clay your car detarr it first. It'll making claying faster & easier & it'll reduce the chances of you scratching the paint from contaminates picked up in the clay bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,178 Posts
Be sure you've removed all of the desert sand before you clay your car too, if it's anything like we've got here. It's very abrasive .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Big thanks. My neighbour painted his house exterior ...... Hence the need to remove tiny dots of white emulsion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
988 Posts
I would try soaking the panel with warm water, this may or may not do anything. While spirit can work, give the spirit a few minutes to work and then wash it all off. Claying can work but I would try and remove the bulk of the paint first to minimise any marring.

Sometimes a fingernail can work wonders
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top