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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I brought a 166 8 months ago. Iv done water pump, cam belt, spark plugs, all filters, Second hand sporttronic, All brake rotors and pads, tyres, wheel alinement, suspension boot.

After all that its still riddled with problems. Dash dies, trans lights on, and runs on 4 or 5 cylinders.

Im running out of hope for this car. But now iv spent so much money on it i cant really afford to sell it running so ruff.


Does anyones 166 work properly? :confused::confused::confused:
 

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Sorry to hear your woes, and I doubt this helps, but yes, perfect thanks, pretty much always has since I got it 5 or 6 years ago. In fairness, I don't do many miles, but even so, it's got 112000 on the clock now so not exactly a youngster.

Brake parts are a consumable on any car, so no sympathy on those! Depending on miles, WP is a service item too, so are the other items you list so still not feeling too sympathetic so far....

FWIW, since I bought mine, I've done the 100k service which included WP, belts, all idlers & tensioners. It had new front springs, new rear springs, shocks and shock tops, one CV joint & boot. Front brake discs & pads. It just had it's second new battery in my ownership. I replaced the exhasut with a stainless system a few years back, tyres of course, but not eccessive. Couple of door locks, I now repair the lock motors rather then just replace the whole thing......err.... struggling to think of any more. Most are just normal service things to my mind. Before I got it, again, it just had pretty much normal service stuff AFAIK. I did note it had some repair welds to the exhaust manifolds shortly before I got it, but whatever was done was good work as it's still sound. It also had handbrake cables and one new rear caliper.

But, transmission problems are less common. Heater matrix leaking onto the gearbox ECU is a common and frankly unforgiveable problem, but well known and easily prevented if you know about it. Another common problem with them is poor electrical contacts at the main loom/gearbox connector. To be fair, almost always due to ham-fisted messing with the thing and/or water ingress into the connector itself. Mis-aligned selector linkage can cause issues - simple to do right, just takes a wee bit of thought and care. There have been one or two less tractable problems that folk have struggled with, but they are rare.

Dash failing - more details please! I'm sure we can assist.

Mis-fire. Well, many causes, again, we need more info in order to help. Start with some history - when did the problem occur, is it persistent at all revs and loads? whats been done to try and resolve it.

Part of me thinks there may be a common theme here - the root of all the issues could well be fundamental and electrical. Start simple, check that all the main power feeds and particularly earths are good. Gearbox/engine earths in particular. Some idea of the cars history might help us to help you track it down.

Chin up!!
 

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Great post Chris! +1 on the chin up boynzie
Have you run a diagnostic check?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys!

Well Heater matrix leaking onto the gearbox ECU was sorted by the last owner. Its in a plastic wrap and the heating matrix has been removed.

The car runs smoothish once it has warmed up but doesn't feel that powerful for a 3L V6. My mothers 1.8 Hyundai feels faster. So im thinking a combination of MAF and a Coil pack or two?

When I re-set the ECU the car runs even worse for a few minutes (the trans light goes off briefly) Then it goes back to its normal ways. So I fear that there is an electrical ECU fault.

At low revs its very inconsistent and jerky. Once it revs up it goes a bit better.
 

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yep. mine is going fine at the moment,

Apart from the central locking only working from time to time (relay) and the radio cutting out momentarily on the right side speakers when going round a left hand bend. And the indicators not self cancelling. And the boot badge has faded.

Well maybe not then :D

I Would think the MAF is a good place to start, the difference is considerable, it feels like an extra 50 horses have appeared under the bonnet. As mentioned the grounds need to be checked and cleaned up, I suspect there is one common theme that is showing up as several symptoms.
 

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Spoke to soon, nasty noise from the front left, wheel bearing or CV joint I would guess.Grrr
 

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Eye was like that this week ABNZ butt looking like light at the end of the tunnel soon.

Keep going..Try everything .Ewe'll get there.

Pomeo
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys! Im going to clean up the grounds make sure that's working as it should, then run diagnostic check see what comes up.

I tested the coils on the top and found them to be fine. Getting to the lower coils sounds difficult can an armature attempt that?
 

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Hi, its not that difficult, its just a matter of removing the plenum. It helps if you have the correct pliers for doing the hose clips back up. There are specialist pliers, but if you have some woodworking pincers, the type that are good for removing nails, they will work fine. Also you will need a allen key cut down to remove the black pot at the very back which is a fiddle. Other than that it is straight forward. A guide if the first few stages in this article.

How to change an Alfa Romeo V6 Cam Belt

HTH
 

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more simple than that P, my Alzheimers getting a grip, I had not tightened the wheel bolts up properly.....Doh
 

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First thing to do is get yourself some manner of OBD code reader. No need to spend a fortune, £20 gets you a pretty handy bit of kit, or if you have a laptop then alfadiag and suitable interface will do great.

Read the error codes, then use them to guide you rather than just chucking things at it. It may ultimately come to that, but start logically.

It's vital to get the cam timing right, for some reason, this seems to elude many people, amateur and pro, so it's worth checking if you are going to remove the plenum.
 

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HI, I would go for FiatECUscan, or Multiscan as it is now called, especially if you have other cars from the Fiat Alfa group (IIRC does some Suzuki's too) and an ELM cable, which are readily available off ebay and the likes. Rather than just read a code number, it can do various test, you can test the dash gauges one at a time, read water temp, battery level, alternator output etc etc, there are loads of options.

Seen as you have multiple issues it may be a wise investment.

Multiecuscan - Diagnostics software for Italian cars


HTH
 

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Ah, that's the one, FiatECUScan/Multiscan - sorry for the confusion, my mistake. As Purple says, a very capable bit of software. I just use a generic reader as it's widely applicable, but less capable. I tend to get dragged into looking at all sorts, not just my own cars so find it more useful, but for fault-finding a nasty issue on an Alfa, something dedicated would be far better for sure.
 

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also, do you have the workshop manual CD or elearn CD? It can also be downloaded for £6 or so which will be quicker for you than waiting for a CD in the post. It has loads of fault finding guides and how to do repairs etc, its basically what the dealers use as their reference guide.

Just search for 'elearn alfa 166' and choose the best option for you.

With the elearn and the ECUscan my car has not seen a garage in 7 years! (apart from tyres and an aircon re-gas).

HTH
 

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more simple than that P, my Alzheimers getting a grip, I had not tightened the wheel bolts up properly.....Doh
:lol: Goat the Tshirt an awe IF eye cun remember where I left it.Blooming annoying it is...I check what ive removewd once twiced and thrice jist tay make sure fur certain.Then wake up in the middle of the night in a cauld sweat...Did eye day thon nut n bolt...useually I have butt AARGH tis a nuisance.

Oh cool! Im going to nerd out with this one! I love me some data.
Too much DATA is a bad thing...Whit year is yer 166. Noo I huv a noo MOT fur TIa I have a few spare hours on my hands wanced eye've dun the other side hawn blake cable and get the grommets in. Is it running the noo OR just plain deed.?

Ok just brought one! Cant wait to see what it says.
What won....The Fiat software, A wee code reader ,the kit and caboodle or summit else.?

also, do you have the workshop manual CD or elearn CD? It can also be downloaded for £6 or so which will be quicker for you than waiting for a CD in the post. It has loads of fault finding guides and how to do repairs etc, its basically what the dealers use as their reference guide.

Just search for 'elearn alfa 166' and choose the best option for you.

With the elearn and the ECUscan my car has not seen a garage in 7 years! (apart from tyres and an aircon re-gas).

HTH
:confused: So ewe print yer ain MOT's or jist hack inn:cheese: Ken watt ewe mean butt.

Chrissie....Can yours do the xenon heedy calibration as local indie spec coodnae day it.....Sum communication problem...BUTT the Data sahid TI a 166 wiz a ZFA312 and no a ZAR936 .
The receipt for the cash for (no questions) MOT said she wiz a an ASTON MARTIN VANQUISH 5.9.....OH TAY SLEEP ETC.....Take in a 166 and leave wie an Aston Vanquish. Eye wish.
However lets get ABNZ's going.

Pomeo
 

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coils are high temp due amperage changing to voltage. if it gets worse when warm it may be coil. bad running, so many causes. bad fuel? are fuel lines really tight? when they get hot under high use they can suck air and cause bogging at higher speeds when warm and power loss. trans light? i don't know but many transmission problems can be fixed with a fluid change and filter clean. sparks, wires, coil and distributer all work together, sometimes the air intake has a valve it will run poorly if the valve sticks or does not work, a throttle position sensor? google all the signs and symptoms of each of these possibilities and see what fits better. i have 146,000 miles
 
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