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Discussion Starter #1
I finally found what the noise mine as always had when driving over rough roads, its the idler box which has a bit of free play and as its bolted to the bulkhead that amplifies the noise, I can get a repair kit from CA which will need machining in but how easy is it to get the box off? - got plenty of access from underneath so no probs there - cheers
 

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Martin.. really easy I recently had mine removed from the car to refurb... separate the two track rod ends, then undo the 3 bolts that hold the idler to the body. (under the wing) There is a bracket that has the locking adjuster attached to it. it will then be free! Straightforward after that...
 

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There must be a lot of play in the brass bushes for you to feel it when driving, mine have tended to get gummed up and tight and have just needed a good clean and regrease.

Anyway as said, pretty straightforward as access is quite good.
 

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note the repair kit has the shaft (and the 2 bushes and a nut/washer)
Hopefully your shaft will clean up good and it is only the softer bushes that have gone.
.....Because almost nobody can or will weld that shaft on correctly...that is real precision work getting that off and then on again correctly......or it'll end up like the leaning tower of Pisa and will bind.

Bushes are a real pita to remove, btw...you have to hammer them from the inside to get them out (you'll see what I mean when you have the thing in your hands)....you cannot press them out, there is a ridge between the 2 bushes so one comes out from the top, t'other from the bottom.....prepare to cuss.

and then you might need to ream, I had to (I used an adjustable reamer)
 

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No, it's the box on the other side of the engine bay to the steering box, and fastened to the bulkhead.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK thanks for the replies, I can't feel it through the steering Simon, I was under the car today and had a good pull on the steering arms to see if i could work out what the problem was, it was then that I could feel and hear very slight play in the box - from what you're saying Dom its probably best just to replace the bushes rather than the shaft because of the welding as long as the shaft is OK? - I've bought the repair kit so I'll take it off and give to the guy who does my difficult stuff and let him sweat it - cheers
 

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Marin..Its all the driving that you are doing.. your wearing the poor thing out!!!


OK thanks for the replies, I can't feel it through the steering Simon, I was under the car today and had a good pull on the steering arms to see if i could work out what the problem was, it was then that I could feel and hear very slight play in the box - from what you're saying Dom its probably best just to replace the bushes rather than the shaft because of the welding as long as the shaft is OK? - I've bought the repair kit so I'll take it off and give to the guy who does my difficult stuff and let him sweat it - cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Its a shame CA don't tell you about the seal or sell it with the kit, I didn't know until I saw that thread Dom and I'd already ordered the kit which has arrived , I'll order it now just in case, if not needed i can send it back for a refund, tenner for a bit of rubber tho... cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got stuck in today and managed to get the box off, however the inner ball joint would not split, even with an air hammer on full throttle, luckily the outer track rod end came off OK so i was able to get the idler off. First thing - absolutely no play!, when I took it apart the bushes had what looks like a plastic coating which wasn't worn , the shaft had a bit of surface marking but no scratches so I'm going to keep them and just regrease it and rebuild. Makes sense to change the bottom seal which was knackered but its proving a real pig to get on, cant drift it because of the rubber so the box will have to go in the freezer tomorrow. I've tried everything on the bench to split the balljoint but absolutely no way is it shifting, so as its in good nick it can stay., those are quality joints and possibly original. Will rebuild tomorrow but don't think the weather is going to let me bolt it back up so it can wait till Monday. Onwards and upwards
 

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originally they were split bushes with a yellow PTFE inner coating...maybe that is what you are seeing.
If that coating is looking good then yes, regrease and put back.
Once all put back, you should be able to move the shaft by hand, but it shouldn't just spin loosly...

Torque for top nut on shaft (not specified in our WSM) is 18.5 - 23 ft/lbs. (according to Jim G on BB, who has worked on these back in the day)
Autobooks say 35-40 ft/lbs, according to one guy.


idler bushes.jpg

However,
I am not quite understanding how you can't fit the rubber seal and need to put the whole thing in a freezer?
It just slides down the shaft of the arm, basically just to keep dust out.......or am I misunderstanding something..?

also, if you 'heard and felt' slight play......that play is still somewhere to be found....one of the other ball joints, perhaps...?
 

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My inner ball joint was exactly the same but on the other side.


Once it was in the vice I cut the head of the ball joint and then lots of heat, bf hammer and swearing finally got the shaft out.

Shame about no play ( you know what I mean!) it sounds like a classic case of mission creep trying to find the knock, I ended up just replacing everything suspension and steering related!

If this storm is as bad as they say then I’ll be in the garage all day tomorrow so I’ll strip the GTV’s idler and see about the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Dom, that is what I'm seeing so it must be original, it is running smooth but not loose so I'll check again when I reassemble, the metal part of the seal sits in a recess in the casting but its so tight i cant get it to fit, its only just so hopefully freezing the casting will shrink it enough to make it easier, I dont want to damage the rubber by hitting it, the nut was on quite tight so will retorque correctly and yes the play must be in one of the other ball joints, at least i know its OK now. Thanks Simon, I'm going to leave it for now as the joint is fine but tackle it again on a sunny day armed with new joints
932704
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Managed to get the seal on - Its back together and bolted up loosely on the spider, rain has chased me off, - found this section in the Official AR manual which gives the correct torque figures and which way round the washers are supposed to go, idler is nice and smooth and not loose
932713
 

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good job!

here is a photo of an original idler dust cap (seal) showing the metal base.
I was just going to suggest lightly sanding that ridge with emery to help the cap to fit (as I just couldn't see the freezing method working here...or did it work for you?)
 

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Stripped mine down, mine has an all rubber seal as listed here


CA say that earlier cars require the smaller ring which is listed as having a metal back so maybe the wrong seal has been sent which would explain it being too tight?


Thanks for the tech info, the torque values will be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks again, I did file the ridge down as bit, that and the freezing and light drifting sorted it - mine is 101-022 which has a metal backing , i think the LHD idler box is different hence the smaller seal, so yours is all rubber Simon ? - are you sure because the metal bit looks part of the box casting until you pry it off, is your GTV LHD? - anyhoo it fits fine and looks like its supposed to be there so am pleased with that part of it, hopefully the wind be trying to remove the bonnet tomorrow and I can tighten it all up
 
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