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Discussion Starter #1
I have had a niggling erratic idling problem for a while now and have been told it may well be the Idle Actuator.

The idle speed will suddenly drop to approximately 700 rpm as if it's about to stall then over compensate by revving to approximately 1300 rpm.

Has anyone changed one of these before, how much was it and where did you buy it?
 
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Have you tried cleaning it first? Try a search as this has been covered many times.

wrinx
 

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as far as I can recall; its quite a simple task if you have some torx bits for your socket wrench set. Remove connector, unscrew two screws, pull out actuator. Assembly is the revers of removal. The idle may be a bit high when you fire her up, but it will settle after a warmup cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the rapid response lads.

The guy who recently serviced my car cleaned the Throttle Body but this made no difference to the erratic idling problem. I will ask him tomorrow about cleaning the Idle Actuator.
 

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Roswell said:
Thanks for the rapid response lads.

The guy who recently serviced my car cleaned the Throttle Body but this made no difference to the erratic idling problem. I will ask him tomorrow about cleaning the Idle Actuator.
Where is the Idle Actuator located?
 

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Did you reset the idle after cleaning the throttle butterfly?

I cleaned mine recently due to slightly erratic idle. Then did the idle reset. Afterwards the idle took about 5 secs to drop from 1400rpm down to 900rpm when coming to a stop.

But after about 200kms it gradually became better and better and now idles perfectly at about 750rpm.
 

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From memory......I have the full instructions at home but I'm sure this is it.

1. Disconnect the battery for minimum 30 minutes
2. Reconnect battery
3. Put in ignition key and turn to the stop before engine start – do not start engine
4. Leave for 90 seconds
5. Turn key to off but do not remove key.
6. Leave for 90 seconds
7. Turn on engine but do not touch throttle pedal.
8. Run engine for 15 minutes.
9. Turn off engine for 15 minutes
10. Start and go for a hard drive.

Afterwards, the idle may run high and take longer to drop when coming to a standstill. But once you drive the car for about 200miles it will gradually come down to a steady 750rpm
 

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Rob_J said:
Do the timings have to be accurate or can you do this for longer, does the 90 seconds have to be exact?
I'm not sure.....

I guess the 90 seconds......anywhere within say 10 seconds should be OK but if you are sitting in the car with your watch, it is pretty easy to be within 1-2 seconds.

The other times are minimum times.

My Selespeed was a real pain to drive afterwards. When I came to a stop the engine would still be at 1400rpm and would slowly drop to 900rpm over about 10 seconds. The Selespeed was totally confused and driving in traffic was very jerky BUT after driving for a few days it gradually became better and better until after about 200miles it was idling perfect at about 750rpm.

I think the normal TS engine may not have this same effect.
 

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Rob_J said:
Many Thanks, I will give this a go tonight.

Thanks again
Rob
Let us know how it goes :) My idle is all messing about every time i stop and depress clutch or just come to a standstill the revs drop off and it looks like it's going to stall, then i touch the throttle and it gets up again again then drops off and then normally corrects itself after doing this three times or so when at a stop :rolleyes: :(
 

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Roswell said:
Thanks for the rapid response lads.

The guy who recently serviced my car cleaned the Throttle Body but this made no difference to the erratic idling problem. I will ask him tomorrow about cleaning the Idle Actuator.
If it is the same as a 146ti (motor geared directly to throttle butterfly) then it's not seviceable as far as I know. I tried and ended up with a 2000rpm idle :eek: then took it to a Bosch agent who sorted it out for sixty quid - I should have taken it there first off and saved myself a couple of days hassle.
Bomberlow: have you tried SAMES?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have had a poke around under the bonnet and mine seems to be the same set up as yours.

It's situated at the back of the throttle body, has two Torx screws to the rear and it's impossible to take any information or serial numbers from it.

What did the Bosch Agent actually sort out for your £60?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
*Update*

'My meachanic' has removed the Variator Valve to see if this makes a difference.

Not sure why? :confused:
 

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bomberlow said:
Let us know how it goes :) My idle is all messing about every time i stop and depress clutch or just come to a standstill the revs drop off and it looks like it's going to stall, then i touch the throttle and it gets up again again then drops off and then normally corrects itself after doing this three times or so when at a stop :rolleyes: :(
Hi,

I did the reset as sugested and have now driven about 130miles since doing it.

The revs are still a bit up and down and dont really seem much better to be honest.

When driving at 30 miles per hour in 3rd for any more then a few hundred meters the car becomes very jerky and you have to change to either 2nd or 4th. The same happens in 4th at around 40 mph.

Maybe its just taking a while to sorts its self out following the reset but I havent really felt any affect from the reset yet.

Also less then a year ago I had a new AFM fitted so its not that thats the problem.
 

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I have had a similar problem with a 1.6TS engine, idle all over the place. Working in the car trade I see this problem often with many different cars, Most have "plunger type" idle contol valves which are easy to clean but the TS engine does not have this, the TPS and idle contol valve are one unit and there is nothing to clean.

However I seem to have cured the problem with the follwing actions,

Disconnect the battery
Unplug AFM
Disconnect throttle cable
CAREFULLY unplug ECU
Undo jubilee clips either end and move air intale pipe out of the way
Undo 4 torx head screw which hold the trottle body on
Unplug TPS/idle control
Remove throttle body
Using Carb clean clean butterfly and all inside the throttle body untill shiny clean from both ends
Replace all parts
reconnect battery

Hey presto nice stable idle

I did try cleaning the butterfly in situ but without removing it you it cannot be done thoroughly enough.
 

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Be careful cleaing the throttle body if you have the fly-by-wire type. Forcing the butterfly open to clean it can break the idle actuator ... making things a whole lot worse .... :(
 

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I replaced my idle actuator last week, basically because the one on my car was borrowed ... (see my thread on MOT Failure Saga .... :( )

Anyway, I replaced my original idle actuator, but as I was concerned about the possibility of breaking this, I tried a different method. Normally I would open the throttle to remove the accelerator cable first ... this time I left it alone.

You can get to the bolts holding the throttle body once the intake pipe is out of the way, so I did this and then turned the complete throttle body anti-clockwise so I could get to the wiring connector underneath the actuator. Once this was out (you have to squeeze it to release a clip), you can turn the body assembly around more and get to the three smaller bolts that hold the actuator on. Pull this off and you can open and close the throttle to your heart's content without worrying about possibly busting the internals of the actuator. Take care as there is a small sealing ring that fits between the actuator and the throttle body. I might come off with the actuator, it might stay on the throttle - it might drop down onto the gearbox or lower!

Replacing is simply the reverse, taking care not to strain the wiring.

I had all sorts of fun and games with the throttle speed around 2500rpm which is where the MOT guys will need to hold the speed to run the emissions tests. Using my actuator and then the loan actuator, the car often stalled at lights, roundabouts, etc. Since putting my original actuator back, in the way described above, stalling has gone, idle is steady around 840rpm, and the erratic throttle seems to have gone. I didn't even perform the throttle reset! Victor Meldrew comes to mind "I don't believe it!" ......
 

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I have been through all the cleaning, the reset, the jet cleaning stuff and more. Conclusion, the danm airflow meter from Bosch is low quality and often need to be replaced. Do that and you may have the performance and the stadey idle back. Check on ebay.com and search for airflow meter = price around 70 £ Bosch item no. 0280 218 019.
Good luck.
 
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