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Greetings all fellow 166 owners with no tunes, no trip computer, no phone (if you're lucky!) and no idea what temperature it is in or out of the car!

Well I've had some fun and games over the last few days, after disconnecting my battery to reset the ECU (which cured my dodgy tickover issue a treat) which then caused my ICS to go into code lockout mode.

First of all, I had the International Security Register document from Alfa, which I paid £20 last year to unlock my satnav (although at that time the ICS was fine, it was just the nav that was bitching for a code!) and this had worked fine for the nav unit. However, this code did NOT unlock my ICS. So be warned - you may have that ISR document, but it may be as useful as a one legged man in an arse kicking contest!

So here's what I did - hopefully it will be a definitive description of what to do if you get stuck in this hole. There's lots of articles on this site but what I did here is an amalgamation of many different threads. So credit to all those that made contributions. I'm hoping that this will help any newbies or people stuck in a rut to get a code nice and easily. It took me about 15 mins in total to do this - although if this is your first ICS removal then you may take longer, as it is a bit of an art but hopefully I can shed some light on this.

This method is cheaper than getting the ISR records from Alfa - they will cost you £20. This method costs £9.95. Every little helps!

So, to get the ICS code, you will need to get the PROPER Becker serial number off the unit. This is not the white sticker on the right hand side of the unit as you look at it, be warned.

ICS removal:

1) Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (in the boot, left hand side behind a cover held on with 2 knurled nuts) - make sure the negative cable cannot flick back to hit the battery. Looks like a 10mm socket is needed for this.

2) Look at the leather boot on the gear lever. You will see a stud popper, undo this. Below the popper there is some velcro, open this.

3) On the silver/wood trim (whichever you have) at the very bottom of the trim, nearest the handbrake, try slipping in a very thin screwdriver blade, or grip your fingers underneath the leather boot at the base of the gear lever and lever or pull up gently. The trim at the bottom should pop up. Now look at the top of this part of trim, which is where the chrome strip is above the fuel cap release button, and goes the width of the ICS unit. You will need to pop out the lower trim from this line. Once this is out, you will need to cajole the section out, and remove the cables for the 3/4 buttons and the cigarette lighter. These connectors have tabbed locks - the tabs are on the right hand side of the black and white connectors. Push the tab in with your fingernail and pull the connector out. Don't force it - if it's not coming out you're probably not pushing the tab in. They don't pop out but once the tab is pressed in it needs only gentle persuasion to remove. Slide the trim up, and over the gear lever and gear knob. If you opened up the pop stud and velcro this should be easy but it is a tightish fit, so be careful. Put this trim to one side.

4) Now you will see inside this trim. The black trim bezel (shaped like a big U) is still there that surrounded the trim in 3) - this will need to come out. It's held in by 4 cross head screws, 2 of which are just below the bottom corners of the ICS, the other 2 are near the bottom nearest the handbrake. Remove all 4, keep in a safe place. Now pull the trim out, starting at the handbrake end and work out the sections at the bottom sides of the ICS - these parts are held in by clips so you may need to just gently prize them out with at large flat bladed screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the trim. What you will probably find when this large panel comes off is that the chrome strip at the bottom edge of the ICS pops out too. Don't worry, that's OK. Put them both to one side.

5) Now the ICS removal. Bain of many a 166 owners life by the looks of it. Lots of confusion abounds about this. But it's just experience and a wee bit of luck. The easiest way I found is to attack the left hand side first. So, get yourself a torch, pop your centre armrest to the upright position, take the handbrake off (pop car in gear first, preferably 2nd as you will need the space to get the ICS unit out!) and sitting in the driver's seat, lay across the middle of the car onto the passenger seat. Now shine your torch at the left hand panel side of the ICS, at the black plastic near the lip where the dashboard trim meets the U part we just removed, you'll see a hole. Now shine your torch at this hole, and angle it approx. 45 degress up and to the front of the car a little, and you will see a little "tunnel" up - and at the end of that tunnel is the "hallowed clip" - look for the shony metal reflection - now this is one of the 2 clips we need to push in to remove the ICS. So get a very thin bladed screwdriver, of length to reach to the end of that tunnel, and get it in there. Then stick your fingers in the cassette player slot in the ICS, push the clip in and gently pull on the front of the ICS through the cassette slot. When you push the clip in properly, the ICS will edge forwards ever so slightly - that's enough for now. Hitting the clip properly is a bit hit and miss, but I found once I could see what I was aiming at this was half the battle. Using a flat head screwdriver seems to help - you can feel the metal on metal contact when it is touching the clip, then push gently and you will feel resistance, but slight movement, that's when you know you have the clip.

Once this is done, you know what you're doing, so all it is, is a repeat of the same but for the right hand side clip. Again, up a 45 degree angle, and you'd be best sitting in the passenger seat and laying across the driver's seat to do this, but I was awkward and lazy and carried on sitting in the driver's seat - whichever is easiest for you!

Now, once both sides are edged out, put one hand in the cassette slot, one hand under the lower front edge, and pull gently. The unit will now come out about 1-2 inches before you will feel resistance. This is due to 2 short cable connectors. One is slap bang behind the middle of the lower edge, again with a lock tab (lock tab is on the bottom of this connector) and the other is on the lower third of the unit, left hand side. Lock tabbed again, think this one was on the bottom as well. Remove both connectors - again don't force. The lock tabs are holding them on, not tightness. Once these 2 are off, you can pull the unit out all the way.

Now - you will be able to access the Becker unit model and number. Ignore the sticky label on the ride hand side of the unit. Despite what you may have read, it seems that the holy grail of the code being on this sticky label is very rare. If it is, good for you, you just saved yourself a tenner! However, what you will probably have is just the Alfa model and serial number, and these are useless. What you need to look at is on the left hand side panel of the unit, and it is stamped into the metal itself, in the top half of the unit. Shine a torch on the side if you're having trouble seeing it, it does help. This number will be of the format:

BE1234W1234567

The 1234 and W1234567 numbers will be unique to your unit so for god's sake don't enter 1234 and W1234567 on the website below! Make sure you copy your unique numbers down carefully from your unit as some of the numbers like 5 and 6 can look similar on metal stamping. Just 1 wrong number entered below will give you the wrong code, so beware!

The Becker model number is the first 6 digits, i.e.

BE1234

The serial number is the last 8, i.e.

W1234567

Now go here:

http://www.car-audio-accessories.co.uk/becker-radio-codes.php

Now in the boxes shown, enter the 2 numbers from above (you will only need to enter the 1234 part of the BE1234 number as the BE is already filled in for you, but the full 8 digit W1234567 number must go into the second line) then enter a valid email address and then the system will search. You will only then proceed to pay IF they have a code on record for this combination, but to be fair it looks like a cracking database, very comprehensive. Once it has found a code it will ask you to confirm this is your serial number before continuing to payment, so this is last chance saloon, check the number carefully before continuing - it will give the number in the full 14 digit form here, as you saw it on the side of the unit. Bearing in mind my car is one of the first 166's (98 plate) and they had my code, I think this will work for us all! Once you have made payment (paypal works well, but nochex will also work for credit cards if you don't have a payal account) you will be given your code, and mailed it too. You want the 4 digit one at the top of the list. Make a note of this, keep it safe. Also make a note of the websites reference number for your transaction - if you need a refund you will have to have this.


Refit the ICS - when you push it in you will feel the 2 tabs click in to lock it in place (remember to reconnect the 2 cables to the ICS and the 2 cables to the lower trim panel, which will also click in once locked), the side U panel, and the lower panel. The only troubles I found on re-assembly were:

1) The chrome trim stip from the bottom of the ICS - if yours popped off like mine did. Refit this once the ICS and the black plastic U shaped surround with the 4 screws are back together. Then make sure the strip is straight (gets bent easily!) and then position it so that the longer of the 2 tabs on each of the 6 poking out tabs is on the bottom, the short tab is on the top, then put the long tabs into the slots in the ICS bottom and click home. You will know it's right as it sits in flush and clean. Again, don't force. It doesn't need it. If you are forcing it then you are doing something wrong.

2) The lower trim panel. First, get it over the gear lever and the gear lever and knob through the leather boot. Reconnect the 2 cables now. Now just hook the metal clip at the bottom under the black U panel - doesn't have to be flush yet. Then angle the panel so the cigarette lighter part goes under the bottom of the chrome trim edge, then slot the top edge into the ICS panel below the chrome strip. It's a wee bit fiddly but be patient. Then when this is locked in, just give the lower edge of the panel just above the metal clip on the bottom a tap and it should click home. Now do up the velcro on the leather gear lever boot and pop the stud back together just below the gear knob.

Reconnect the battery, click the ignition on and enter your freshly obtained 4 digit code. Worked for me, worked for others too. :D Looking at the nightmare others have had, although this means popping out the ICS to get the right info, this seems to me the cheapest, and more importantly the most quickest way, of getting the correct ICS code.

As for the nav code, on my car these 2 are different. So once you have the ICS up and running you may still need a nav code too. In my case, the Alfa ISR register had this, but not the ICS code. Now I know what I'd rather have working - all my toys bar one or none? Easy choice! :D

Should you find, for any reason, that this code doesn't work, just email the guys at car-audio-accessories.co.uk with your reference number (in the email they send you) and they will refund the money. The first time I tried this, I put in the Alfa serial number instead, so don't make my mistake! But the guys on the site refunded immediately, so it's a good and fair site. :)

Well that's it - I've benefitted enough from tricks and tips from this site, I just thought it was my turn to give something back and as the ICS is so vital in the 166, I hope this saves some people some scratching of heads and headaches in the future. :cool:

Cheers

Mark

PS special thanks to Niallmoran, MarkTodd and Sipe for the hints and tips that led to this success. Again I can't stress enough that none of the above is actually my "own work" as such - I couldn't have done it without you guys! :cool:
 

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as no one has said this yet..... so im gonna speak for everyone on this forum......................thanks taking the time and effort for typeing this guide! :D
 

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hi i woul like to thank you as well.
is the code you put in for the radio the ics code or are there diff codes for sat nav ,air con heater etc on the centre console controls
 

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bjaguarsteve said:
hi i woul like to thank you as well.
is the code you put in for the radio the ics code or are there diff codes for sat nav ,air con heater etc on the centre console controls
One code for the (ICS RADIO) and another for the SAT NAV if Fitted.
 
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Yes indeed. Thanks for the time and effort you put into that Doddy. Much appreciated.
 

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Sipe said:
Yes indeed. Thanks for the time and effort you put into that Doddy. Much appreciated.
How true.

Its a pity the original keepers of the cars don't pass on the code cards supplied with the new car to the next keeper and so on.If they did it would be so easy and new owners would not need search for information such as the sterling work carried out by Doddy.
The same applies to the original keys.

Pomeo
 

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Pomeo said:
How true.

Its a pity the original keepers of the cars don't pass on the code cards supplied with the new car to the next keeper and so on.If they did it would be so easy and new owners would not need search for information such as the sterling work carried out by Doddy.
The same applies to the original keys.

Pomeo


Cards are not normal for UK cars tho'
 

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HowardA said:
Cards are not normal for UK cars tho'
Sorry HowardA I meant the radio code cards...I got one with my 3 litre..(NB only 1 keeper since new before me and all the keys)....Nothing with the 2.5 (5 previous keepers and one well worn key which comes out the steering lock in any position..but after I got the radio code form the ICR I saw code shown on one of the service accounts from a main dealer.


I think you are referring to code cards supplies outside UK to limp home by by passing all the inhibitors when the car wont start..See Steviebhoys post on his car.
Not sure if it worked for him tho'

Pomeo
 

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Greetings all fellow 166 owners with no tunes, no trip computer, no phone (if you're lucky!) and no idea what temperature it is in or out of the car!


Superb information on the ICS unit and it certainly helped with the easy removal of my unit (I would have destroyed it if I hadn't read your posting first). All you say is true with the unfortunate exception for the model BE2580 in my 2001 166. Although I got a code in seconds from the car audio site it didn't work. The very helpful guys at car audio accessories tell me that the codes for this model are not working and will give a refund. I'm now off to search the world for a code - wish me luck! Tim
 

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Niall

Thanks for that. My first port of call was to two dealers who both sent me the same code from the register that didn't work. I'm now in direct contact with Becker in Germany who have sent me a form for sending direct to them with the info on the code. I'll let you know how I get on....
 

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Doddy

I hate to burst your bubble BUT

I went out into my 2.5 today and was about to shout at the kids for littering the car BUT I stopped just in time.It was like a sticker off an electrical appliance...Lokked at it and saw BECKER 2569 And serial no.

Don't know how it got there but itwould have saved me a lot of work as per your post.I have my code anyway...Tempted to try and see if they give me the same no. But i'm not.

Thought this would give fellow 166 ers a laugh.
 

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Sorry to bring up an old topic again. I have the immobilizer code (electronic 5 digits, mechanical 2 letters + 5 digits), and the ICS code (4 digits). Do I need another one for the SatNav? My dealer said the ICS code IS the SatNav code too.
 

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I use this gide, and put all correct, but the code for my don`t running....

help me pleaseeeeeeeeee

I put the codes in the web

i confirm this
y pay

i receive the code.... but this.... not running, I put anr return to the enter a code !!!!

helllllllllllppp please, i`m desesperattly
 

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Discussion Starter #19
rubyvab

Sorry about that - it seems this procedure doesn't work for all ICS units. It seems weird that the codes work for some modules but not others. Car audio will give you a refund if you get in touch with them, so you can get your money back. After that, there are some threads here on this site about getting the codes from other sources. Best do a search for ICS and have a good read.

Pomeo - you lucky so-and-so! :p Wish that had been mine! Where was this sticker? Was it just laying around or was it stuck to something other than the ICS?

Guys, I'm wondering if this code procedure works for G2 type ICS units and not the later G3 type units? Can those that have tried this (both successful and not) let me know the year of their car? Mine is a 98, so definitely a G2. In case that's confusing you, there seem to have been 2 main types of ICS unit, those that work with the G2 sat nav units (cars up to 2002) and those that work with G3 sat nav units (2002 model year onwards) - if anyone knows of any other variants in the ICS units please let me know.

Again, apologies to those that have tried and not got the code - maybe I should just edit this to be a "removing ICS" sticky?

Cheers

Doddy
 

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Doddy One again in an elvis accent

Thats the wonder
the wonder of Afla!!!

Yes it was just lying on the floor of the drivers footwell.

I was lucky with my codes.None supplied with T plate car...Phone call to ISR got the ICS code...(which on looking at the earlier receipts for the car had the code listed on the invoice.) The Sat nav code I got from the original suplying garage the cost of a free phone call.

Pomeo.
 
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