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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone!

Not sure if we've had this before - have tried searching but couldn't find anything on it so...

Like the title says, I wanna go faster!

Have had my 33 for about a year now, and after owning a mk3 polo 1096cc it seemed really fast and still is!

But I recently went for a drive to Cumbria and found overtaking was harder than it should be so rather than buy a new car which is the last thing I wanna do, I've decided I need more power.

So can anyone help me with this please?

Cheers! :thumbs:
 

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Matt, where do you want to start, a good idea would be to look at Ah motor sport web site as to costs of various tuning mods, but if you want to improve acceleration without too much mods swap your gearbox for a sud gold cloverleaf box (lower top speed) but more usable for nipping about overtaking, the only problem would be to find one as they are as rare as rocking horse dodo. Maybe a second hand ex race engine or 16v transplant (cheapest option yet) or some mild porting and fast road cams, again its a lot cheaper to do this yourself if you can find space and don't need to use the car. Exhausts also can be quite expensive and imo have proven with a high flow air filter and tune up to do very little to improve things unless you spend alot on a larger bore stainless steel manifold ,center box and back box. I did this with my ah preped engine and gained 17 bhp!!!! yes even I was gob smacked but the previous exhaust was restricted by the standard manifold. Also you have to consider your insurance, I us Adrian Flux after a very comprehensive list of mods had been submitted to them and it cost me 310 quid a year fully comp on a 7000mile a year. Adie Hawkins who owns Ah motosport would be more than helpful if you need advice but he will tell you that you need a big budget!. Any way good luck Oggie:thumbs:
 

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First thing you need to decide is what do you want to achieve.
second is how much have you got to spend.
third is how involved personally do you want to get involved.

Simplest option is definately engine swaps.
What are you starting from? A 1.5? A 1.7?
To keep it simple stick with same type of fueling i.e. carbs or fuel injection. This is the only downside with the 16V conversion. If you are not already running fuel injection you either have to pay to convert or pay for manifolds and carbs then setup on a rolling road.

Tuning is simply based around letting an engine breath. If you want to stay with existing engine then better filters, manifold / system from a 1.7 or 16V.

Whatever you do they will optimise it on a rolling road so your money isnt wasted on not going faster.

If you do want to get technical and dirty I do have some heads and cams for a 1.5 or if you are really adventurous I have the 1.6 engine out of my rally car that produced 125BHP at the flywheel

Good luck rsfruitbat
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies everyone!

Seems there is a lot that can be done but is all down to how much money you have..

I don't have much at the moment as the car insurance is killing me but am definitely gonna start saving soon for modifications - the engine swap sounds good but I have very limited knowledge and space for such a challenge !

I think at the moment I would like to change parts from my existing 1.7 8V - is it worth changing exhausts and filters or should I just wait until I can afford a conversion??
 

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Either buy johnboys or prepare yourself to feel the pain firsthand. I think the carb 1.7's had 112bhp? With what you have 16V is the least aggravation to get another 25BHP. Dont know what johnboy will say but converting my rallycar from carbs to fuel injection with a brain was a nightmare. Took far more time and expense than I expected.
I tried for ages to buy a complete car for sensible money. One only came up after 11 months and then it was too late. I had sourced the bits seperately at much greater expense.

Good luck rsfruibat
 

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Matt, where do you want to start, a good idea would be to look at Ah motor sport web site as to costs of various tuning mods, but if you want to improve acceleration without too much mods swap your gearbox for a sud gold cloverleaf box (lower top speed) but more usable for nipping about overtaking, the only problem would be to find one as they are as rare as rocking horse dodo. Maybe a second hand ex race engine or 16v transplant (cheapest option yet) or some mild porting and fast road cams, again its a lot cheaper to do this yourself if you can find space and don't need to use the car. Exhausts also can be quite expensive and imo have proven with a high flow air filter and tune up to do very little to improve things unless you spend alot on a larger bore stainless steel manifold ,center box and back box. I did this with my ah preped engine and gained 17 bhp!!!! yes even I was gob smacked but the previous exhaust was restricted by the standard manifold. Also you have to consider your insurance, I us Adrian Flux after a very comprehensive list of mods had been submitted to them and it cost me 310 quid a year fully comp on a 7000mile a year. Adie Hawkins who owns Ah motosport would be more than helpful if you need advice but he will tell you that you need a big budget!. Any way good luck Oggie:thumbs:

Beat me to it!!! AHMotorsports for everything Alfa is my stock answer to anyone who wants to go faster :thumbs:
 

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Hi Matt. I think you should try to sample a 16v engine before fitting one. They are quicker, and a Sprint with a 16v certainly had good legs on my modded 75TS. However, I don't like the sound of the 16v, it is rough and needs to be revved- hard. I would suggest looking into new cams and carburettor mods etc. The Boxer is very tuneable, and even 1.5s can produce 125BHP and still be docile and tractable. It will also look more standard.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have just had a look at AHMotorsports - they have some brilliant parts!

If I had £10000 I could have a lot of fun on that website... but just cannot afford that sort of money at the moment :-(

With regards to the 16v conversion, that is something else I don't have money or space for but would be great if it was possible !

Oh well thanks for the comments everyone - my dream is on hold for the moment.

Some **** tried stealing my baby a couple of days ago, dented all the lock in so I instead of mods I'm saving for an alarm now :rolleyes:

Cheers guys :thumbs:
 

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Well 1.7 has 118HP. In traffic it is a lot better that 16v from traffic light to traffic light. Few things you can do on the 8v are better excaust , jetting your 40's carbs and mild porting , things that are easy to perform with logical cost.

Converting to 16v is quite easy , at least in theory . You can find an engine cheap but it needs few other thinkgs also that you have to had so it is better to buy a complete car ( doomed to scrapyard) . You will need brakes (otpional but nessecary) , fuel pump, bridge , excaust ,cables and wiring , ecu , an extra water hose and few other things....
 

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Should you decide to go this feel free to ask me anything because I have done the 16V conversion to my Sud.

If you keep the carbs you no not need many of the aforementioned items.
You can (must) use the fuel pump of the carbed 8V so you will also use your existing firewall to bolt it on. No cables and wiring, no ECU.

The carbs will need different jets and possibly reaming of their venturi tubes to accommodate the thirstier 16V . You will certainly have to change the lower crossmember ("bridge") to that of the 16V that has inserts for the bigger engine heads along with the front antiroll bar.

You will also need a 16V exhaust manifold because the 8V manifold will not bolt onto the 16V engine heads due to different bolt pattern (I had to have one custom made because the 33 one did not clear the inner brake disks) and preferably a 50mm tailpipe form a 16V 33 as the 8V one is 45mm if memory serves me well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thats the thing - I LOVE the sound of my 8v carbs !!

Sounds like a golf VR6 when you push it hard !!

'better exhaust , jetting your 40's carbs and mild porting'

This interests me, how simple is it to do?

Also when I was sold the car I was told that it needs tuning up, what does this mean?

Thanks!
 

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Well, if the heads are off for some flow work or polishing, you may as well throw a couple of new cams in.:D

Tuning work will consist of resetting the carbs. The can go off after a while wieither by accumulating dirt or the setting vibrate of, or simply just a little wear that needs compensated for.
 

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Ussually carbs needs to be tuned or calibrated to synchronize assuming they work ok and they do not need servicing. In mine left one opened faster that the right for example. Also , you have to check timing if it is correct because there are not to so many people that know how to do it aspecially if previous owner has changed cambelts . If the havent been changed , you better do it as soon as possible.


As far the excaust thing... Either you find an Ansa type excaust ( i think i have found one for 300+ on an Austrian shop , or just use better can for mor free flow. I have used a Group N spec one and it did a difference.
As far carbs , there are few people here that they have posted various needle combination for 40's carbs so do a little search . The same for mild porting...

Oh and a last thing , you can improve the setup of factory airbox by setting up a second pipe of fresh air to the box. Nothing difficlut also..
 

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Your cheapest option is to turbocharge it. This could easily be done for less than £1000. AHM is all very good if you are racing professionally and have a spare £10-20k in your back pocket, but whilst i certainly admire the quality of their products its just not applicable for a £700 road car.
 

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If you are on a budget which like most of us you are you will only make the most out of anything that you do if you provide in your budget for a rolling-road session. I know it seems like money for nothing but it will benefit the performance and the engine longevity.
I would recommend Dave Young of Mech-Motorsport in Cheltenham but he could be too far for you too go to.
The problem I found with some other rolling-roads was that most places dont stock the complete range of jet parts too optimise your performance, top - middle and bottom for the IDF carbs.

Removing the standard airbox and fitting free-flow airfilters will assentuate the rasp and release some BHP on runs. If you are in traffic a lot effect will be reversed as they will be pulling hotair from in engine bay.
Carbs have to be synchronised. Check that on the linkage the butterflies open at exactly the same time and by the same amount. Check that they open fully to the correct position on the throttle pedal aswell as on the linkage.
Start putting some redex through the fuel system to remove carbon, petrol lacquer and other deposits.
Make sure the ignition system is in good working order; coil, lead, cap,rotor arm, plug leads, plugs, gapped correctly.
Does anyone know if the bolt spacing from a 16V exhaust manifold fits the 8V head. I know its at 45degrees instead of 90 but if its the same at least you could just cut them off, turn and reweld. Alternatively weld on 8V flanges to a 16V manifold.
Fit a 16V system as I think overall it is larger dia. I usually remove the centre box. Bit less weight and again a nicer sound

Just some basic low cost thoughts alot of which can be sourced of ebay.

Good luck rsfruitbat:thumbs:
 
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