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I’ve only gone and cured it!!!!!

This is how I have fixed the sticky window on my 2.0 16v.

It will only really apply if your windows are sticky ie half inch at a time.

Remove all the door trims etc as you have previously done. Take care with the demister duct, and hold the mirror when you take the screws out – or it will fall straight off. Refit a screw to hold it.

Get the window to drop about 2 inches, it will make it easier in a minute.

Tape the window to prevent it dropping.

Feel behind the glass, you will find the clip that holds it to the rack. Fiddle the clip off. (This is shaped like the omega symbol on securicor vans, and has two lugs that clip in the spigot on the rack). Squeeze the spigot and withdraw it. This bit is bloody fiddly but do not be tempted to use a screwdriver or you may shatter the glass.

Undo all the 10mm nuts/bolts and withdraw the whole black frame. You will need to undo the membrane and insulation, this is also fiddly to replace so be careful.

Unplug all wiring and unbolt the rack from the frame.

Look at the motor. One end has a blue tube, prize out the brush springs from this end. Carefully prize the bent-over lugs that secure the end of the motor.

Now you can withdraw the end complete with that tube.

Look at the wiring – there is a very small thermal cut-out pushed into the housing – that is what caused me trouble.

Using a suitable length of twisted, bare wire, solder a bridge across the terminals on the cut-out.

It’s a good time now to clean the brushes, housing and commutator. Also you can lube the rack cleanly at this time.

Re-assemble and hold the end on while you test it.

Re-fit the end and bend the lugs back over.

In the best Haynes tradition, replace all items in reverse order!!

TIP: Be careful with the door release cable – you may have broken the small clip that secures it during removal. Secure with a cable tie.

Just remember though, in good order the assembly is quite powerful so mind your fingers – THERE IS NO LONGER ANY PROTECTION DURING CLOSURE. Be aware of this when raising the window as it will overload the circuit when it gets to the top.

DISCLAIMER. Obviously this worked for me, but I must accept no responsibility for any injury/breakages if you try this yourself.
 

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What type of thermo cut-out is installed? Can you photo it or get writing off it?
Usually these things only kick in after 5 or so mins of the motor whirring, and it sounds like yours was duff...
Maybe replacing it would be a better option?
 
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Good effort wideboy :D I can't help wondering if all the cleaning and lubing you've done would have helped anyway ;)

How did you know the cut out was at fault?

wrinx
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The reason I went for the cut out is as follows:
The history of the car contained a recent main-dealer bill, which included a stripdown and lube of the window rack.
Further to that, I noticed that the window moved BETTER when the engine was OFF - suggesting to me that the cut-out was cutting out quicker on higher CURRENT rather than LOAD. I had deducted from all this that when the window had been stiff, it had damaged the 'capacity' of the cut-out. Once lubed the ability of the cutout to cope with normal load was reduced.
I was going to take a photo of the cut-out but my camera died!
When you remove the end of the motor, you will see braided copper wire running from the connector block - one straight to the brush, the other to a small yellow device. If you are careful you can prise this out and you will see what makes it work - a small piece of spring steel with contacts rather like inside a relay. I did try to solder this but it won't take solder easily - it failed during testing - hence soldering the outside contacts.
Believe me I think everything had been done prior to this, the car came to me via TWO Alfa-trained mechanic owners, and after 3 weeks with the car I decided to go for the obvious next attempt.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
McGuinn said:
What type of thermo cut-out is installed? Can you photo it or get writing off it?
Usually these things only kick in after 5 or so mins of the motor whirring, and it sounds like yours was duff...
Maybe replacing it would be a better option?
Valid comments, see my post ref photo. The relay was of the otter brand. I would think replacement parts from Alfa are highly unlikely since the motor/rack is obviously designed as a sealed unit. I would however think that anyone good with components may find something in the maplin catalogue.

Furthermore, whilst the lift-protection is disabled, the assembly is still protected by the existing fuses and relays.
 

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widebody said:
If you are careful you can prise this out and you will see what makes it work - a small piece of spring steel with contacts rather like inside a relay. I did try to solder this but it won't take solder easily - it failed during testing - hence soldering the outside contacts.
That's a bi-metalic switch. A combination of a brass and Invar plate bonded together. You can set the throw or make temperature by expanding or contracting the distance between the contacts and joints.
Here's a link.
http://www.machinedesign.com/ASP/strArticleID/56630/strSite/MDSite/viewSelectedArticle.asp
 

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tried this fix today but all I achieved was blowing 4 fuses so back to original 2" at a time :rant:
 
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paverooney said:
tried this fix today but all I achieved was blowing 4 fuses so back to original 2" at a time :rant:
Sounds like your thermal cutout is activating correctly cos the motor is drawing more current than it should. SO could be a sticky window problem or could be the motor itself needs replacing.

I will follow Widebody's guide at some point to check the switch on mine.
 

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paverooney said:
tried this fix today but all I achieved was blowing 4 fuses so back to original 2" at a time :rant:
When you re-assembled did you clean the commutator and brushes - and check their condition? It is also VERY easy to catch the braided wire if you don't slip it back into the sprues in the brush housing. (This is possibly what melted my original solder on the internal contacts)
Please do a dry run before re-assembly so you can watch the motion.
Whilst all motors are different the windings are of similar sizes to the Volvo 440 and various Vauxhall and VW motors. I would hazard a guess you have or have created a short circuit. Don't give up!
 

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I've concluded that it's the motor at fault so I've got another one coming,thanks to speedfreak so hopefully I'll have result by Saturday and report back. ;)
(I did check that the commutator and the brushes were ok,if not a little low but we'll see)
 

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:)
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I have a last fixed the window problem,(thanks to speedfreak for the supply of a new motor)
she whirrs up and down like a new 147's
I am a happy man

So in hindsight people if it's iffy lub it,and if it's p155ing's you off get a new motor for a fix and peace of mind and with that I'm of to the pub ;) ;) ;) :) :) :) :D :D :D
 
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