How to tension timing belt 1.9jtd 16v
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You have slackened the nut on the stud through the adjuster's toothed wheel, I hope? If it's tight the adjustment is locked.
I recently fitted one and found it best to nip up that nut so the adjuster can move under a bit of leverage. It was then really rather easy to set the correct tension using a screwdriver against a bolt inserted into the handy empty hole in the block. Then tighten the nut, remove the timing tools, rotate the engine 2x, put the timing tools back on and check timing.
[EDIT: from memory the hole is M10 or so, and at about 8 o'clock from the adjuster. If you're trying to lever freehand, without using a bolt as a fulcrum, that will be very hard or impossible. Even so you need a large screwdriver or pry bar to get the leverage.]
I recently fitted one and found it best to nip up that nut so the adjuster can move under a bit of leverage. It was then really rather easy to set the correct tension using a screwdriver against a bolt inserted into the handy empty hole in the block. Then tighten the nut, remove the timing tools, rotate the engine 2x, put the timing tools back on and check timing.
[EDIT: from memory the hole is M10 or so, and at about 8 o'clock from the adjuster. If you're trying to lever freehand, without using a bolt as a fulcrum, that will be very hard or impossible. Even so you need a large screwdriver or pry bar to get the leverage.]
Thanks guys!!
Halftone, Yes the nut was slackened.. But No movement whatsoever.. Ive removed the tensioner to have a closer Look.. IF i have the old tensioner in my hand i can Push on the tab and with (a lot) of force i van Move the pointer.. When i do this with the New when i can Push as hard as i can en and the pointer wil not Move.... Could IT Be that i have a faulty New tensioner? Or is IT normal that the old one is easier to Move?
Halftone, Yes the nut was slackened.. But No movement whatsoever.. Ive removed the tensioner to have a closer Look.. IF i have the old tensioner in my hand i can Push on the tab and with (a lot) of force i van Move the pointer.. When i do this with the New when i can Push as hard as i can en and the pointer wil not Move.... Could IT Be that i have a faulty New tensioner? Or is IT normal that the old one is easier to Move?
Hmmm, not seen that before, maybe someone else has. In the meantime if I was you I would fit the old tensioner just to make sure that it will tension the belt ie to double check that you are doing everything correctly & there is nothing interfering with the components - if that works then return the new one for exchange, if the old one wont tension it then you are doing something wrong - not that there is much to do wrong.
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I had a faulty new tensioner a few weeks ago. Pointer would not move around by applying tension. You could move the pointer around by hand, slide the tensioner out and lock it all up but the tensioner did not self-adjust as the belt tightened/slackened and so would have worn the belt out very quickly if left fitted. It was replaced with another which went on no problems.
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You won't be able to move the camshaft sprocket much if its locked and it'll only temporarily sort out your lack of tension - it won't be right once done. You must have a tooth too many between the cam & crank, or even two. I would take the belt off and fit it again, start at the crank, move up around the idler, over the cam, over the fuel pump and then lastly onto the tensioner. I've done it both ways but this way works better if you're on your own.
Y'know, looking at the image you posted, that tensioner is so far to the left that it's almost disengaged from the pin. Got to ask, have you checked both tensioner & belt to ensure they are the correct items, that belt looks almost too long, when I fitted one last week it was almost touching the idler side untill i tensioned it.
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there are 2 different belts a 98 and 99 tooth belt, there should be 2 lines on the belt one goes on the mark on camshaft and the other on the mark crank then just lift the tensioner
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I think you'll find the camshaft sprocket is keyed to the camshaft, it isn't free to rotate. The wheel which is read by the camshaft position sensor is built into the back of the sprocket, so the sprockets position relative to the camshaft must be fixed so the ECU can know the true position of the camshafts.
Useful Dayco video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDol-XzBgfw
Should be obvious if the tensioner is working properly simply by rotating the pointer by hand before fitting it to the car. As said above, looks like the belt is too long with too much slack, wrong type fitted.
The eLearn method using locking tools does say to slacken off the cam pulley bolt, tension the belt then re-tighten the cam pulley bolt again. Not much point doing this unless it allows the pulley to rotate freely relative to the camshaft i.e. no keyway ... or at least no key fitted. Does make you wonder how the cam position is picked up in that case, not off the pulley itself surely ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDol-XzBgfw
Should be obvious if the tensioner is working properly simply by rotating the pointer by hand before fitting it to the car. As said above, looks like the belt is too long with too much slack, wrong type fitted.
The eLearn method using locking tools does say to slacken off the cam pulley bolt, tension the belt then re-tighten the cam pulley bolt again. Not much point doing this unless it allows the pulley to rotate freely relative to the camshaft i.e. no keyway ... or at least no key fitted. Does make you wonder how the cam position is picked up in that case, not off the pulley itself surely ?
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