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My door lock is broken and only works from the inside, hence why I started this. It would be I think very expensive at a garage, based on the fact that Alfa Workshop quote 2.5 hours labour just for the inner handle replacement, and the lock is over £200 RRP according to shop4parts, so worth a go if you are a DIYer.

Tools needed:-
Plastic Trim removal tools
Philips Screwdriver No 2
5mm Hex/Allen Key (needs to be thin enough and long enough to get to some recessed bolts on the door card, so a multibit screwdriver might not work)
Torx T40 socket or key
10mm Socket or Spanner
Something to remove pop rivets (I used a drill with an 8mm bit to remove most of the head then a hammer and cold chisel)
Pop riveter and rivets (Rivets are part number 50521399 and available from allcarparts)

Normally I would say disconnect the battery first, however there is a requirement to move the window later so power is needed. It's up to you whether or not to disconnect then reconnect as needed, or proceed at your own risk.

Firstly, the door card. There's a guide on Alfa Workshop for this too. Prise off the mirror cover, the screw cover behind the internal handle and the arm rest trim piece carefully using a plastic tool. Then remove the 2 philips screws on the door card, one below the lock and the other at the bottom near the puddle light. There are 3 5mm hex bolts next, 1 below the cover at the handle and 2 more under the armrest trim.

Working from the bottom up you can now prise the door card loose using a plastic tool. There are only clips down the sides and at the bottom, the top is hooked over the door. Try to be as gentle as possible as the card is flimsy and there are cables to disconnect as well. Once all 3 sides are loose the door card can slide up and be moved away from the door.

Disconnect the cables connected to the door card. There will be one for the puddle light, one for the tweeter speaker, one or two (depending on whether it's the drivers or passenger door) connections to the window controls and a cable for the internal door handle. There is a white retaining clip that can be prised out of the handle cable as shown on the guide.

Door card off and you should see something like the attached image.

Now for the fun! Circled in green are the 10 pop rivets that need to be removed. This rather depends on preference and available tools, as I said I used an 8mm drill bit to remove the head of the rivet then a hammer and cold chisel to break off the rest. There's a foam seal around the edge as well so use a plastic pry tool to separate the door and the skin.

At this point is where I ran in to trouble, as the skin doesn't come off easily and the only guide I could find was this
on youtube (which is where I got the part number for the rivets). What it doesn't tell you is that the window needs to be disconnected from the mechanism prior to removal so I removed the regulator from the door first, which is now in bits and needs reassembly. Don't do what I did!

Attach a piece of duct tape to the top of the window to use as a handle. Circled in yellow on the attached image is an inspection window. Open this and move the window until you see the green plastic mounting that holds the window to the regulator. There's a bevelled stud in the middle of it. Press this in with a small tool whilst pulling up on your duct tape handle to separate the window and the regulator. Not much force is required but nonetheless be careful as you're dealing with glass. Slide the window right to the top and then secure it in place with another piece of duct tape over the door frame.

The door skin is also held to the lock assemble with 2 plastic rivets circled in red. Push the middle of these rivets out (you can collect them later from the inside of the door) and gently push them through. The door skin should now be separated from the door, although there are still cables on the inside clipped to it. These can be seen about 2 thirds of the way up the skin, plastic clips holding the wires from the door hinge entry to the lock solenoid. The internal handle cable is threaded through a rubber grommet and can be pushed through as required.

The window regulator is riveted to the skin so more drilling required if that's what you are replacing. The lock is held to the door by 3 T40 bolts at the back of the door and a 10mm bolt under the door card, visible on the attachment.

That should be it for disassembly, I'll post back when my new lock and rivets arrive. Tomorrow will be spent trying to figure out how to put the window mechanism back together. :irked:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Couple of updates today.

1. The rivets are 7mm in diameter so that's the size of drill bit to use if you are drilling them straight out. Make sure you have a drill stop of some kind as there is only about 25mm clearance behind some of the top rivets to the window!

2. Reassembling the window regulator is PITA but can be done if you have taken it apart by accident as I did. Unless you have issues with it, I'd leave the motor in place as this locks the regulator in place, without the motor there're 3 plastic clips holding it in place. To wind the cables back on to the pulley I wound the top wire on first as it goes to the back of the pulley, and then the bottom and clipped the pulley wheel back in to place with the cable not over the end wheel which is pink (the other end doesn't have space to remove the cable so it's easy to tell which end to do). Using a G-clamp and a couple of dowels or similar take up the tension on the springs in the window cradle (the green plastic piece, there are two metal end caps on the cables that are spring loaded) and hook the cable over the pink pulley in to the small notch, then wind it round the pulley to get the last piece on and then remove the G-clamp. It's a PITA to do but saves buying a new one, there are plenty on eBay though and I at least found the pictures helpful for getting it back together!
 

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Last updates on this, it's all back together and working. :rotate:

I've added some more images so you can see the window clip that needs to be disconnected to separate the regulator from the door. The rivet that may cause the most issues is the second from the left at the top on the passenger door, as this is the only one that has glass behind it with the window up. Definitely one to remove the head only and not drill straight through until you have the regulator panel off.

Also a picture of the rivets, as you can see they are pretty big. Pliers style pop riveters will NOT do the job here, even if they had a big enough nose piece to fit the rivets you couldn't get enough purchase on the rivets to break them off. Lazy tongs or a power riveter of some kind are required. Last note on the rivets is that they appear to be made of adamantium or some similar metal, they are death to drill bits so make sure you have a few brand new ones available.
 

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Thanks for sharing.

Guess it's a bit late to ask about a photo of the inner door after your removed the riveted panel.

I was curious if there was much structural protection, I noticed I had a diagonal bar quite low down but nothing higher up or study looking.

The Giulietta got good NCAP ratings so wondered if mine has not been brought up to standard after an accident, there was bits of broken glass which makes me think the door was hit at some point prior to my ownership.
 

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No picture but I can confirm that there is only one cross beam in the door and it is pretty low down, in fact you can see it in the picture through the inspection hatch. The top of the beam is just visible.
 

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Wow! Thank you so much for this.

Success! Finally figured it out, only took a good hour to reassemble.
A G- clamp would have been mighty helpful but got there in the end.
Now just to source the suitable rivets and have everything back on the door.
 

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Last updates on this, it's all back together and working. :rotate:

I've added some more images so you can see the window clip that needs to be disconnected to separate the regulator from the door. The rivet that may cause the most issues is the second from the left at the top on the passenger door, as this is the only one that has glass behind it with the window up. Definitely one to remove the head only and not drill straight through until you have the regulator panel off.

Also a picture of the rivets, as you can see they are pretty big. Pliers style pop riveters will NOT do the job here, even if they had a big enough nose piece to fit the rivets you couldn't get enough purchase on the rivets to break them off. Lazy tongs or a power riveter of some kind are required. Last note on the rivets is that they appear to be made of adamantium or some similar metal, they are death to drill bits so make sure you have a few brand new ones available.

Hello cruachan

Thanks for the great instructions, I'm hoping they are going to be a big help to me next weekend as I need to take my inner panel off to search for a water leak.

Can I just check with you that Im understanding this correctly. If i need to remove the panel to check inside the cavity for leaks I dont need to remove the motor in order to do this. I just need to access the green clip through that round hatch which will unattach the window and so the regulator and motor come away all still connected to the inner metal panel. Thus avoiding a lot of trouble.

Cheers
 

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Hello cruachan

Thanks for the great instructions, I'm hoping they are going to be a big help to me next weekend as I need to take my inner panel off to search for a water leak.

Can I just check with you that Im understanding this correctly. If i need to remove the panel to check inside the cavity for leaks I dont need to remove the motor in order to do this. I just need to access the green clip through that round hatch which will unattach the window and so the regulator and motor come away all still connected to the inner metal panel. Thus avoiding a lot of trouble.

Cheers
Exactly, the clip holds the window into the regulator and the motor is screwed through the metal skin into the regulator, so you don't need to remove the motor, just disconnect the window from the regulator and drill out the rivets (which is a massive PITA!) to remove the whole panel.
 

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Exactly, the clip holds the window into the regulator and the motor is screwed through the metal skin into the regulator, so you don't need to remove the motor, just disconnect the window from the regulator and drill out the rivets (which is a massive PITA!) to remove the whole panel.
Fantastic. Thanks for that. I really wasnt looking forward to having to try and figure that out the hard way.

I plan to take some more pictures off the inside of the door just in case anyone can make use of those. Ill post them here as soon as Im done
 
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