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How to Guide - Cleaning a Throttle Body

What am I doing?
You are cleaning / changing the Air intake Throttle Body on a 2.0 litre twin spark CF2 engine identified by a Silver Plastic top engine cover ALFA SPIDER 2.0 TS 16V 1998 >2003 (CF1 and CF3 may be slightly different).

Why am I doing it?

Possibly your car has an uneven idle / tick over, Cleaning your throttle has been known to cure the concern, or your throttle body is faulty and requires replacing.

What do I need? Pic 1
Ratchet, extension bar
7mm, 10mm sockets
M6, M7 Ribe bits
Flat headed screw driver
Pair of pliers
Brake or carb cleaners
Some old rag


How much will it cost?
About £5ish for carb cleaning spray(Wynns is a popular make)

How long will it take?
Approx 45 mins s unless you have done it before – then much quicker

So how do I do it?

Step 1 - Remove engine cover. Pic2

First thing to do is to remove the engine cover, to do this simply first unscrew the oil filler cap, remove and set to one side, then undo the 4 x M7 Ribe bolts holding the cover in place the bolts will stay in the cover as you lift it off.

Step 2- Remove Air Intake Induction Hose. Pic 3 & 4

The air intake hose is connected to the throttle body and MAF / Air Filter Housing by two large jubilee clips one on the MAF (2) and one on the Throttle body (3), There is also a smaller diameter pipe which branches off to the rocker cover (1) this is retained by a clip which requires a pair of pliers to un clip. There is also a 10mm nut (4) which attaches the resonator box bracket to the Air filter housing which requires removing.

Now using both hands gently release the intake hose from the throttle body and Maf unit. (I say gently because there is the possibility of tearing the rubber if it has perished.) after this its a case of manoeuvring out the resonator box and induction unit and setting it to one side.

Step 3 – Removing the throttle body. Pic 5 & 6

The Throttle body requires the two electrical connector (1) clips on the top unclamping, lift the each metal clip as you do so it will raise and unclamp the electrical connector from the small ecu.
Next there is a the small 7mm nut which connects a brown earth cable (2), remove this.
Now the accelerator cable needs detaching , its a case of removing the small retaining clamp (3) and then releasing the cable (same as a cycle brake cable) rotate spring fully and slide out cable, the rubber bush requires removing. All disconnected except for one which we shall do in the next.

The throttle body is now held in by 4 x M6 Ribe bolts. Using the ratchet, extension and Ribe tool un bolt the bolts (one on each corner, and set to one side. The throttle body should now be free, rotate anti clock wise and you see the black idle controller on the side with a cable still attached, gently unclip and disconnect connector. The throttle body is now ready to be cleaned. (There should be a round, in my case orange rubber O ring on the engine side of the intake manifold Leave in place and inspect for damage, replace if necessary).

Step 4 – Clean Throttle body

The throttle body is usually covered in a black debris, Using the Wynns Carb cleaner spray liberally and rub with a cloth. Its always good to have the wifes tooth brush handy to give a but of a scrub around the butterfly edges and surrounding area. Basically clean until nice and shiny. This is now your throttle body cleaned.

Step 5 – Re - assemble
Re assembly is basically a reversal of the previous steps, nip the 4 ribe bolts up, ensure that you remember to connect all of the electrical connectors, including the small brown earth strap. Examine the Air induction hose for cracks / splits, repair or replace if needed. Connect the accelerator cable so that there is no slack in the cable but the small idle adjust screw sits on the throttle body.

**NOTE** If fitting a new or replacement throttle body, with a different idle actuator (Black box on side of throttle body) then you will need to reset the actuator using FiatECUScan software (the option to reset this is only available in the 'full version' of the software) and an OBD 2 cable (e.g. ELM 327). Otherwise you may encounter high / irregular idle problems.

Start the car, return the wife’s tooth brush.

It is sometimes worth while going through the Idle ecu reset sequence below.

1. Turn ignition to MAR for 90 secs
2. Turn off and leave 90 secs
3. Start engine WITHOUT pressing throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins (I repeat, do not touch the throttle whilst the car is idling)
4. Turn engine off and leave for 10 minutes
5. Start the car and go for a drive, using a number of styles (eg town, motorway, thrash etc)
 

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How to Guide - Cleaning a Throttle Body

What am I doing?
You are cleaning / changing the Air intake Throttle Body on a 2.0 litre twin spark CF2 engine identified by a Silver Plastic top engine cover ALFA SPIDER 2.0 TS 16V 1998 >2003 (CF1 and CF3 may be slightly different).

Why am I doing it?

Possibly your car has an uneven idle / tick over, Cleaning your throttle has been known to cure the concern, or your throttle body is faulty and requires replacing.

What do I need? Pic 1
Ratchet, extension bar
7mm, 10mm sockets
M6, M7 Ribe bits
Flat headed screw driver
Pair of pliers
Brake or carb cleaners
Some old rag


How much will it cost?
About £5ish for carb cleaning spray(Wynns is a popular make)

How long will it take?
Approx 45 mins s unless you have done it before – then much quicker

So how do I do it?

Step 1 - Remove engine cover. Pic2

First thing to do is to remove the engine cover, to do this simply first unscrew the oil filler cap, remove and set to one side, then undo the 4 x M7 Ribe bolts holding the cover in place the bolts will stay in the cover as you lift it off.

Step 2- Remove Air Intake Induction Hose. Pic 3 & 4

The air intake hose is connected to the throttle body and MAF / Air Filter Housing by two large jubilee clips one on the MAF (2) and one on the Throttle body (3), There is also a smaller diameter pipe which branches off to the rocker cover (1) this is retained by a clip which requires a pair of pliers to un clip. There is also a 10mm nut (4) which attaches the resonator box bracket to the Air filter housing which requires removing.

Now using both hands gently release the intake hose from the throttle body and Maf unit. (I say gently because there is the possibility of tearing the rubber if it has perished.) after this its a case of manoeuvring out the resonator box and induction unit and setting it to one side.

Step 3 – Removing the throttle body. Pic 5 & 6

The Throttle body requires the two electrical connector (1) clips on the top unclamping, lift the each metal clip as you do so it will raise and unclamp the electrical connector from the small ecu.
Next there is a the small 7mm nut which connects a brown earth cable (2), remove this.
Now the accelerator cable needs detaching , its a case of removing the small retaining clamp (3) and then releasing the cable (same as a cycle brake cable) rotate spring fully and slide out cable, the rubber bush requires removing. All disconnected except for one which we shall do in the next.

The throttle body is now held in by 4 x M6 Ribe bolts. Using the ratchet, extension and Ribe tool un bolt the bolts (one on each corner, and set to one side. The throttle body should now be free, rotate anti clock wise and you see the black idle controller on the side with a cable still attached, gently unclip and disconnect connector. The throttle body is now ready to be cleaned. (There should be a round, in my case orange rubber O ring on the engine side of the intake manifold Leave in place and inspect for damage, replace if necessary).

Step 4 – Clean Throttle body

The throttle body is usually covered in a black debris, Using the Wynns Carb cleaner spray liberally and rub with a cloth. Its always good to have the wifes tooth brush handy to give a but of a scrub around the butterfly edges and surrounding area. Basically clean until nice and shiny. This is now your throttle body cleaned.

Step 5 – Re - assemble
Re assembly is basically a reversal of the previous steps, nip the 4 ribe bolts up, ensure that you remember to connect all of the electrical connectors, including the small brown earth strap. Examine the Air induction hose for cracks / splits, repair or replace if needed. Connect the accelerator cable so that there is no slack in the cable but the small idle adjust screw sits on the throttle body.

**NOTE** If fitting a new or replacement throttle body, with a different idle actuator (Black box on side of throttle body) then you will need to reset the actuator using FiatECUScan software (the option to reset this is only available in the 'full version' of the software) and an OBD 2 cable (e.g. ELM 327). Otherwise you may encounter high / irregular idle problems.

Start the car, return the wife’s tooth brush.

It is sometimes worth while going through the Idle ecu reset sequence below.

1. Turn ignition to MAR for 90 secs
2. Turn off and leave 90 secs
3. Start engine WITHOUT pressing throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins (I repeat, do not touch the throttle whilst the car is idling)
4. Turn engine off and leave for 10 minutes
5. Start the car and go for a drive, using a number of styles (eg town, motorway, thrash etc)
Hi Buddy just a quick question I f you change your ignition key lock system from another car (because I lost my original keys) do you have to carry out some procedure when you install the new ecu and immobiliser when you first start the car up?
 

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Registered
Joined
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148 Posts
How to Guide - Cleaning a Throttle Body

What am I doing?
You are cleaning / changing the Air intake Throttle Body on a 2.0 litre twin spark CF2 engine identified by a Silver Plastic top engine cover ALFA SPIDER 2.0 TS 16V 1998 >2003 (CF1 and CF3 may be slightly different).

Why am I doing it?

Possibly your car has an uneven idle / tick over, Cleaning your throttle has been known to cure the concern, or your throttle body is faulty and requires replacing.

What do I need? Pic 1
Ratchet, extension bar
7mm, 10mm sockets
M6, M7 Ribe bits
Flat headed screw driver
Pair of pliers
Brake or carb cleaners
Some old rag


How much will it cost?
About £5ish for carb cleaning spray(Wynns is a popular make)

How long will it take?
Approx 45 mins s unless you have done it before – then much quicker

So how do I do it?

Step 1 - Remove engine cover. Pic2

First thing to do is to remove the engine cover, to do this simply first unscrew the oil filler cap, remove and set to one side, then undo the 4 x M7 Ribe bolts holding the cover in place the bolts will stay in the cover as you lift it off.

Step 2- Remove Air Intake Induction Hose. Pic 3 & 4

The air intake hose is connected to the throttle body and MAF / Air Filter Housing by two large jubilee clips one on the MAF (2) and one on the Throttle body (3), There is also a smaller diameter pipe which branches off to the rocker cover (1) this is retained by a clip which requires a pair of pliers to un clip. There is also a 10mm nut (4) which attaches the resonator box bracket to the Air filter housing which requires removing.

Now using both hands gently release the intake hose from the throttle body and Maf unit. (I say gently because there is the possibility of tearing the rubber if it has perished.) after this its a case of manoeuvring out the resonator box and induction unit and setting it to one side.

Step 3 – Removing the throttle body. Pic 5 & 6

The Throttle body requires the two electrical connector (1) clips on the top unclamping, lift the each metal clip as you do so it will raise and unclamp the electrical connector from the small ecu.
Next there is a the small 7mm nut which connects a brown earth cable (2), remove this.
Now the accelerator cable needs detaching , its a case of removing the small retaining clamp (3) and then releasing the cable (same as a cycle brake cable) rotate spring fully and slide out cable, the rubber bush requires removing. All disconnected except for one which we shall do in the next.

The throttle body is now held in by 4 x M6 Ribe bolts. Using the ratchet, extension and Ribe tool un bolt the bolts (one on each corner, and set to one side. The throttle body should now be free, rotate anti clock wise and you see the black idle controller on the side with a cable still attached, gently unclip and disconnect connector. The throttle body is now ready to be cleaned. (There should be a round, in my case orange rubber O ring on the engine side of the intake manifold Leave in place and inspect for damage, replace if necessary).

Step 4 – Clean Throttle body

The throttle body is usually covered in a black debris, Using the Wynns Carb cleaner spray liberally and rub with a cloth. Its always good to have the wifes tooth brush handy to give a but of a scrub around the butterfly edges and surrounding area. Basically clean until nice and shiny. This is now your throttle body cleaned.

Step 5 – Re - assemble
Re assembly is basically a reversal of the previous steps, nip the 4 ribe bolts up, ensure that you remember to connect all of the electrical connectors, including the small brown earth strap. Examine the Air induction hose for cracks / splits, repair or replace if needed. Connect the accelerator cable so that there is no slack in the cable but the small idle adjust screw sits on the throttle body.

**NOTE** If fitting a new or replacement throttle body, with a different idle actuator (Black box on side of throttle body) then you will need to reset the actuator using FiatECUScan software (the option to reset this is only available in the 'full version' of the software) and an OBD 2 cable (e.g. ELM 327). Otherwise you may encounter high / irregular idle problems.

Start the car, return the wife’s tooth brush.

It is sometimes worth while going through the Idle ecu reset sequence below.

1. Turn ignition to MAR for 90 secs
2. Turn off and leave 90 secs
3. Start engine WITHOUT pressing throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins (I repeat, do not touch the throttle whilst the car is idling)
4. Turn engine off and leave for 10 minutes
5. Start the car and go for a drive, using a number of styles (eg town, motorway, thrash etc)
This is great, going to look to do this to see if it will sort out my fault code problem and just as a good form of maintenence. I'm guessing the steps on a JTS would not be greatly different?
 
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