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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

I have an Alfa GTV 916 Series 1 LHD from 1997.
I own this car since 2005. (second owner)

The car has the "Alfa"-alarm system installed and not the Meta-system.
I have the burgund master-key, some normal keys, the metal key to turn off the alarm and I have code-cards:

937872
937873


I do NOT HAVE ANY FOBS at all. I never had one.
I do not even know what technology they are (infrared, radio) and how they look like.
As per reasearch I think they looked like this:

937874
937875



However ... I want to open my doors remotely.
Where to get a suitable fob and how to push the code onto it?

Thank you!
 

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Hi,when I lost the keys of my car I used Abacus alarms to code a new set of fobs.If you google them there is loads of info on the subject.
 

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I'll try and help with what I've found out but I've not had much success so far. You have found the right fob. They are rare now and expensive, I missed 4 on Ebay with a german dealer they were about £35.00 each. By the time I made up my mind they had gone quickly. Ther are some in Italy on Ebay about 65 quid. I think though I don't actually need them as I have the later key which replaces the fob. There is a lot of information in the manual regarding programming which is available here:
Also there is a guy on You tube that seems to be well up on this:
You can contact him on the alfa 145 forum details in the video description. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you.
I did read through the ws-manual, but I am still unsure about most things.
  • Could I get an used transmitter from an used Alfa GTV/Spider or do I need a brand new transmitter?
  • Could I get an transmitter from another car (e.g. Alfa 145, 146, 155, Fiat?, ...) or must it be from a GTV/Spider? Compatible models?
  • How do I learn a new transmitter to the alarm system? The ws-manual talks about simplified programming, protected programming and memory opening ...
  • As I see a brand new key comes with a 4 digit code. Why is it important to know my current key-codes from the code-cards?
Thank you
 

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I suspect your car will be radio not infrared. I believe the infrared ones will have a bulge on the n67 unit (where the map light is) to house the infrared sensor, whereas the radio ones are flat.

In terms of getting keys I've not had to get one for a long time, and infact managed to get a new key from Alfa Romeo in 2015 (the garage that had the car at the time managed to crush mine - long story) - maybe Alfa Romeo still have stock, but I expect the price would be outrageous. As @Nellytheroc suggests, eBay is probably the best bet (I would snap up that transmitter). Alternatively don't be afraid to get a used key with cut blade, it's possible to remove the blade and put one in from an existing key or get a new blade cut and inserted into the body. A lot of the ones on eBay have already had their blade removed at some point. You can tell as the inside pictures will show the plastic has been messed around.

1. A used or new transmitter is fine. If you have a used one you will probably not get a code with number with it, but this shouldn't be a problem.

2. Yes, I believe a key from a 145, 146, 155, 164, GTV or Spider should work.

3. To learn a new yet you need to 'open the memory'. You do this by entering one of the codes of the previously programmed keys. The code card lists the two keys that were programmed into the car when it was first bought (these are the codes starting with 2.4. in your picture). To enter the code follow the instructions on the link @Techteam sent (page 27) under 'Memory opening'. There instructions are also available on the bottom half of this page: How to Dump N67 Memory Contents. Once the memory is open you follow the 'simplified programming instructions'. It's worth checking that the codes you have on your key card are valid by attempting to open the memory. If they work, the LED will start flashing at the end of the sequence. If it is solid then you either entered it wrong (it's bloody fiddly to enter the code so there's a good chance you'll get it wrong a few times), or those keys no longer exist in the N67. The N67 can only hold I think 7 keys, so if someone kept programming in different keys the originals would get wiped out. If the codes don't work, you will need to dump the memory (see my link above) in order to program a new key.

4. To open the memory of the N67 you need to enter one of the codes for a key that is already programmed. A new keys comes with a code as this code will also be able to open the memory once it has been learnt.

Let us know how you get on!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@theozaurus :
Thank you very much! 🙏This is the answer I was waiting for. :D

I suspect your car will be radio not infrared. I believe the infrared ones will have a bulge on the n67 unit (where the map light is) to house the infrared sensor, whereas the radio ones are flat.
I took a photo of the n67 unit. I think the bulge is the infrared-receiver?

938009
938008



I will summarize the master-plan to get a working transmitter for my car:

  1. I will try to get a new or used transmitter
    A new transmitter contains the programmed code written on paper.
    I do not need the code, because when using the "simplified programming instructions" I do not need to enter code. I just press the button and the n67-unit accepts the code.

    I need an infrared transmitter, which looks like this:

    938010


  2. Memory opening
    I will open the memory of the n67-unit by using the procedure described in the ws-manual on page 27 titled "Memory opening".
    I will use the button on the n67-unit to enter the 4-digit code on my code-card.

  3. Programming the new transmitter
    With the memory opened I use the procedure described in the ws-manual on page 25 titled "Simplified programming".
    I press the button on the n67-unit and press the button on the new transmitter. The code of the new transmitter should get written into the memory.
Is this the correct procedure?


It's worth checking that the codes you have on your key card are valid by attempting to open the memory. If they work, the LED will start flashing at the end of the sequence.
Do I have to take care of the "opened memory" when testing without a new transmitter?
Do I have to close it somehow?

Thank you!
 

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1. @Diciotto916, yes that's definitely an infrared n67 and will need an IR transmitter. If you look carefully at the picture of the transmitter you can see it has a little window on the right hand side so looks to me like an IR transmitter, as does the eBay one.

2. Yes

3. Yes

In terms of locking it, it will lock automatically after 256 activations/deactivations (top of page 26). You can lock it manually if you like before then. The procedure for that is described in that document. Given you have to be sat in the car to program a new key the risk of someone else coding their key to your car because the memory is unlocked is pretty slim!

FYI when programming the new key you can also set the country code, this configures things like whether the car alarm automatically arms (I found this amazingly annoying), and whether the lights flash, siren makes a sound when activativating or deactivating. Someone on the forum it describes all of the differences.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was able to locate a second-hand IR-transmitter this week.
It did cost me 15 Euros :p and did arrive today:

938217


The seller was not even sure about the car it belongs to. :unsure:
I think it originally belongs to an Alfa 164 QV.
As per ePer the 164 seems to have the same transmitter as the 916:
938219


However ... I finally got it working using the mentioned procedure.
It took me 4 attempts. It was very strange, because after the 3 code-digit the LED stayed on at 3 attemps. o_O
Then finally trying to press the button on the transmitter and heard the power door lock mechanism.:D

I think there is still a problem with the alarm-system.
As per the manual, the LED should blink, when the system is armed, but there is nothing.
938218

I also was not able to provoke an alarm at all. :unsure: I will have a closer look the next days.

@theozaurus :
Thank you very much for your outstanding support! (y)🙏
 

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Is your alarm switched on with the lockout key on the sire. The central locking and the alarm are 2 separate systems. The central locking communicates with the alarm over a serial link.
 

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Glad to hear you got it working. Not sure about the LED. It could be because the alarm is not arming (do you hear any noises or flashes of indicators when you lock the car using the button). You can verify the alarm works by locking the car with the button and opening the boot.

It may also be due to the country code your car is setup with.

Sent from my motorola one using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hello,

Do you hear any noises or flashes of indicators when you lock the car using the button?
There is no visual or acoustic feedback, when pressing the button on the transmitter.

You can verify the alarm works by locking the car with the button and opening the boot.
I did turn the alarm on with the small metal alarm key under the bonnet. I did close all doors, the bonnet and the boot.
I did lock the car by pressing the button on the transmitter.
Then I opened the boot. There was no alarm or anything. I was not able to provoke an alarm.
I did also try it with the small metal alarm key in the other position to confirm on/off-position.

Noticeable:
When turning the small metal alarm key from position off to position on, there are 10 quitly beeps coming from the alarm.
When turning the small metal alarm key from position on to position off, there is1 quitly beep coming from the alarm.
As mentioned the LED is not blinking at all.

I also want to mention, that I noticed the alarm key was in on-position for at least ~10 years.
The car was mostly stored and the battery often disconnected or flat.

A working alarm-system has not that priority for me, but it would be a nice bonus.

Thank you
 

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The alarm module needs to receive the code from the receiver. I had a similar problem whereby the remote would lock/unlock the car but the alarm wouldn't respond.The alarm wouldn't beep or flash the hazards on arm/disarm. The alarm module needs to receive the code you enter from the receiver. If not it won't respond to the remote. If you alarm module or receiver has been replaced you'd need to re-input the code with the alarm module switched on at the key switch....or you alarm could just be faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You'd need to re-input the code with the alarm module switched on at the key switch...
If I remember right ...:
... programming the new transmitter was only possible, at one position of the alarm module switch.
On the other position, when pressing the switch on the receiver, I did not get any feedback through the LED.
I think/hope this position was "ON".
 

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As @alastpa says it sounds very much like it's related to the alarm unit or connection to the alarm unit.

It's worth double checking that the way you are provoking the alarm is effective as well. You can check that your boot will trigger the alarm by looking at the dash and seeing if the LED for the boot lights up when it's open and goes off when it's shut. If it doesn't then the microswitch for your boot is out of action and won't trigger the alarm.

The good news is your alarm doesn't immediately go off when you turn it off. If it did then you wouldn't be able to sync a new key to the n67 or the alarm (you can't sync a key to it while it's ringing). My car is in the garage at the moment so I can't verify whether or not it does 10 quiet bleeps when the alarm is switched from off to on with the metal key. That could be a code telling you what the problem is, or it could just be normal. Can anyone else verify what there alarm does in this situation?

Can you check the connections from the N67 to the alarm (check page 28 and 33 on link @Techteam sent)? If there is a connector unplugged, or bad wiring it will stop the arm / unarm command being sent to the alarm.

There is also a 'manual diagnosis' mode for the alarm (you'll need a working bonnet switch for this, to test bonnet switch, open bonnet and see if LED illuminutes for bonnet on the dash). That's on page 32 of @Techteam link. It could be that the 10 bleeps mean at least 3 causes of alarm - in which case I would suggest you check all door switches (look at LEDs on dash and open and close doors, the manual diagnosis will also test these switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hello,

It's worth double checking that the way you are provoking the alarm is effective as well. You can check that your boot will trigger the alarm by looking at the dash and seeing if the LED for the boot lights up when it's open and goes off when it's shut.
I can confirm, that the switches work fine. (left door, right door, bonnet, boot) (y)


There is also a 'manual diagnosis' mode for the alarm ...
I come rightly from the car and I have successfully done the manual diagnosis:

938338


I successfully entered diagnosis-mode. :)
5 beeps from the system and a blinker-flash signaled the beginning.
I operated every switch (left door, right door, bonnet, boot) and the system recognized it correctly. (beep+blink)
I left the procedure by setting the ignition switch to Marcia. The alarm-siren shouted out loud and the blinkers flashed as described.

Everything worked fine. The alarm-system seems to be OK. :D
I can even confirm, that the mentioned LED on the dashboard is OK, because I saw it blinking too during self-test.

Can you check the connections from the N67 to the alarm (check page 28 and 33 on link ...
I will have a look, but I am not sure if I have enough know-how for this. :unsure:


As the alarm-system basically seems to be OK ... should I try to reprogram my transmitter once again by "opening the memory" and using "simple programming procedure"?
I am even not sure, if I have to do anything after the simple programming procedure is finished. (close memory? ...)

Thank you
 

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@Diciotto916 that's good news on the successful manual diagnosis. It appears the switches all work correctly as does the indicator. Does the unit still make 10 quiet beeps when you switch it from off to on using the key on the alarm unit?

Start following the instructions now on page 33. The connection from N67 to the alarm requires a multimeter set to meassure continuity (do this with the battery unplugged). The proper way to do this is by finding the right pins on the plugs at each end and using a back probe (this tests the continuity in situ) . The easier way is to disconnect the plugs and meassure for continuity between the right pins in the plugs (you will need a multimeter with quite long cables to do this).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Does the unit still make 10 quiet beeps when you switch it from off to on using the key on the alarm unit?
I did try it again today. Result:
Turning the small metal alarm key from position ON to position OFF, there is1 quitly beep coming from the alarm.
Turning the small metal alarm key from position OFF to position ON, there is NO beep coming from the alarm.
No idea why this changed. :unsure:


I did try to reprogram my transmitter once again by "opening the memory" and using "simple programming procedure".
I did verify, that the alarm-system is turned on during programming.
Unfortunately no change in the situation. :confused:
 

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I suspect the manual diagnosis cleared any registered faults. I think the 10 beeps meant that their were "at least 3 causes of alarm contemporaneously". When the alarm is turned activated and deactivated it performs a self diagnosis. It's a bit of a long shot, but potentially you have the ON, OFF position backwards. The manual suggests that fault codes happen when the alarm is deactivated, so that would suggest you've got it backwards. I'd be tempted to try and reprogram the same key with the alarm in the opposite position and see what happens.
 
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