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Discussion Starter #1
This guide is only applicable to cars with an EDC15 ECU, EDC16+ really need to get it switched off "properly" as part of a remap ... anyway

I bought a couple of blanking plates from Dan (pud237), although I have seen them on fleabay too

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The EGR is located to the right side of engine at the back.

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Unscrew the 2 hex bolts that attachs the intake, and then unscrew the 3 bolts holding the EGR on to allow it to move freely(ish)

DSC_0369.jpg

Slot in one of the blanking plates and screw back up

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Part 1 Done!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The second blanking plate goes between the exhaust manifold and the EGR heat exchanger (on the front of the engine to the right of the turbo)

DSC_0371.jpg


Unfortunately the hex bolts were completely seized on and wouldn't budge, so I've soaked them in some plus gas and I'll give them a go another time :eek: ... or failing that next time the car is in for a service I'll get them to fit it :lol:
 

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You're not trying to put the blanking plate on the exhaust manifold are you? These are a different shape, slightly bigger I think.. My second one was fitted on the underside of the EGR valve.
 

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You might be able to cap it off at the heat exchanger though.. I was thinking about eliminating it altogether now my EGR is capped, perhaps by using a TS thermostat..
 

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You're not trying to put the blanking plate on the exhaust manifold are you? These are a different shape, slightly bigger I think.. My second one was fitted on the underside of the EGR valve.

Ahh yes I thought it would be best to go on the exhaust manifold and it looked about the right shape size, but obviously not :eek: ... oh well better get out there and put it on underneath then
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Part 2!!!!

So following on from Dan's advice :lol: ... the hex bolts on the bottom of the EGR wouldn't budge in situ, so I undid the connector to the heat exchanger and pulled the whole thing off

DSC_0376.jpg


From there it was easy(ish) with a bit of plus gas to undo the bolts ...
and look what I found inside :vomit:

DSC_0377.jpg


Anyway from there it's easy to slide in the new blanking plate and fit it all back to the car :thumbs:

DSC_0378.jpg
 

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You may need to bend that pipe to the heat exchanger a little, as the thickness of the EGR blanking plate pushes the EGR valve up a little and the bolts might not screw into the plenum so easy.
 

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You may need to bend that pipe to the heat exchanger a little, as the thickness of the EGR blanking plate pushes the EGR valve up a little and the bolts might not screw into the plenum so easy.
After I'd reattached the heat exchanger, I loosly attached all the bolts (just to get them in) and then tightened them all up gradually ... didn't post a picture up of it finished as you can't see the second plate anyway!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
BTW that looks well mucky.
Well I think it's the first time it's been off the car in 9 years/160k :eek::eek: ... hence why I thought I'd get round to blanking it off before it went wrong!!!
 

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Hi, I blanked the egr valve off on my 156 and I only used 1 blank fitted between the inlet manifold and the valve, I dont think there is any need for the second blank as the flow of gas will be stopped by the blank.
The egr valve has been disabled on my 159 in the ecu so that has the same effect as only fitting 1 blank.
Both cars run much better with an improvement in throttle response and mpg.
The only down side is they seem to take longer to warm up due to no heating of the water through the heat exchanger.
Its a job well worth doing
 

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did mine a while back with just 1 plate ...I've grown to live with the MCSF beep
Just sneaked in my mot today before any issues with 2012 changes. The fella in the garage reckons it will fail for any reason with the engine light on.
 

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Zombie thread

Sorry if I'm bringing the thread back from dead but it fits perfectly for my questions

I've got the EGR blocked only between the heat exchange and the valve similar to below description:
Hi, I blanked the egr valve off on my 156 and I only used 1 blank fitted between the inlet manifold and the valve, I dont think there is any need for the second blank as the flow of gas will be stopped by the blank.
The egr valve has been disabled on my 159 in the ecu so that has the same effect as only fitting 1 blank.
I think the same and Isn't it also the same effect as if the EGR is stuck in close position?

Are there any issues with the heat exchanger when the EGR valve is blanked off like this?
Wandering also ..
Can the heat exchange be removed (please don't shoot If I'm talking nonsense)
use blanks for 8 and 11 get rid of part 6 and 1?
See below diagram from eper

This guide is only applicable to cars with an EDC15 ECU, EDC16+ really need to get it switched off "properly" as part of a remap ... anyway
My car is a GT 1.9 JTD 2006 and after the EGR block didn;t bring any MSCF or error of any kind ,
Also it was done together with a MAF replacement
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think the same and Isn't it also the same effect as if the EGR is stuck in close position?
Yes, although EGR's very rarely get stuck in the fully closed position ...


Wandering also ..
Can the heat exchange be removed (please don't shoot If I'm talking nonsense)
use blanks for 8 and 11 get rid of part 6 and 1?
See below diagram from eper
Can't see why not, although I'm not sure how much would actually be gained by doing this.

My car is a GT 1.9 JTD 2006 and after the EGR block didn;t bring any MSCF or error of any kind ,
Also it was done together with a MAF replacement
Different countries have slightly different ECU software (due to the different regulations in different countries), so perhaps the software is slightly different in SA :confused:
 

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Yes, although EGR's very rarely get stuck in the fully closed position ...
Can't see why not, although I'm not sure how much would actually be gained by doing this.
Different countries have slightly different ECU software (due to the different regulations in different countries), so perhaps the software is slightly different in SA :confused:
Thanks for the answer!

It happened to me (not 100% sure) , but the EGR commanded parameters is stuck in 3.9% percent.before and after the EGR was cleaned and blocked, have to say , wasn't disassembled the solenoid part because it was going to e blocked anyway.

I'm afraid I'm not sure how this is measured as the EGR valve has only 2 wires, it could be read indirectly by other parameters or it can be just a software miss read (generic parameter)

I was thinking about removing the EGR valve and the heat exchange, to remove unused parts, loosing weight?
Less things to think about?, but only if they are not needed , that I know now (only for a week) EGR is NOT needed. but I'm concerned about the heat exchange function that I don't fully understand yet.

I started thinking about it reading that It seems to be possible to disable the EGR actuation and/or applying a resistor
8.2Ω/20W...
to fool the ECU (not sure if both are needed)
and this is based on the logic and experience of this post.

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tuning-and-upgrades/241210-what-is-proper-electrical-substitute-for-removed-egr.html
 
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