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Discussion Starter #1
My husband's 2003 Alfa Romeo 156 GTA had all of it's wheel arches treated for bad rust (including holes) in 2011. On one front wheel arch, a small bubble has formed again at the very front point where it joins to the bumper.

Is 5 years a reasonable period to be rust free?
 

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Depends on what the treatment was, I suppose.

Did you get a warranty/guarantee for the work? Without anything solid like that I would reckon you're just dealing with one of the foibles/realities of an older (but magnificent) motor car.

Was it a full, cut out and grind, eradicate all possible traces of rust (inside and outside the arch), right back to clean, shiny metal...........and then full, careful, methodical treatment, undercoats, top coats, bitumen stuff underneath, lacquer on top? And afterwards, over the years, a careful maintenance, cleaning regime, looking out for stone chips, rubbing of trim, cracking etc.?

Even if it was, I think by 5 yrs I'd have to accept the feasibility of a weakness being exposed. Maybe the bumper or fixings rubbing the paintwork?
 

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I think you have done well with 5 years...

I did mine and one hour later it was bubbling again.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It was originally done very thoroughly. There were holes in the front bits of each wheel arch that were all cut out and new metal was 'let in'
I don't think it has had any attention since at all.
I'll get him to take it back to the body shop for an inspection.
 

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It depends how well it has been done.

I would say 5 years was pretty good, if a repair has been badly rust treated it can need doing again in a few months.
 

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I wonder why the 156 suffers with rusty wheel arches where as the 147 and GT don't?
 

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I didn't suffer rusty arches on any of my 156's.

Rusty floorpans and inner front wings yes, but not the arches.
 

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I didn't suffer rusty arches on any of my 156's.

Rusty floorpans and inner front wings yes, but not the arches.
The 156GTA flared wheel arches rust above the bumper join. The regular 156 doesn't suffer from it. The front wings also can rust around the zender kit join at the base of the wing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It would appear both fronts are starting to go and one rear.
He had a chat with the painters. They said 5 years was good going and they'd 'help him out' with a 'good' quote to do it again.
He's getting a bit despondent and talking about selling it.
As much as its a money pit, I'd rather he kept it as it keeps him out of the house a fair bit!
 

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It would appear both fronts are starting to go and one rear.
He had a chat with the painters. They said 5 years was good going and they'd 'help him out' with a 'good' quote to do it again.
He's getting a bit despondent and talking about selling it.
As much as its a money pit, I'd rather he kept it as it keeps him out of the house a fair bit!
I hope he decides to keep it....although no cars of that age will remain immaculate by magic...Italian cars very much included!

It is worthwhile to protect behind the prone areas with deox 80/dinitrol etc once repaired.
2003....floorpans and inner flitch panels will also need checking.

This is what my 2003 looked like after some poking about and that is good for a 156 over 13 years old: The only holes were in that front wing area (mig-weld filled and ground back in the photo). Floorpans and flitch panels only surface rust nipped in the bud.
I made sure to treat with bilt hamber Hydrate 80 and zinc primer before painting or protecting with dinitrol. Most bodyshops won't use zinc primer as it needs three or four days to cure, but hydrate 80 cures overnight.
 

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