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Discussion Starter #1
Quick question.......

How hot should the average GTV 2.0ts Ph2 run on a normal day?

I have just brought a Cable to read ecu etc and amongst other faults it showed some very strange temperature readings from startup...-44 degrees!!

When running my gauge normally sits just over the 50 mark. Heater is always warm so never really given me cause for concern..... until this weekend when I've had my funny readings!

Answers on a postcard please!!:p
 

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I get VERY hot, I have to put on the sunscreen several times a day, and the black leather seats BURN when you get back in, even if only parked for a few minutes to get a cold drink at a servo. :lol:

Actually I find it helps to carry a couple of white towels in the compartment behind the seats, throw 'em on the seats when leaving the car topless. It's another clear blue sky day today, probably heading for only about 28 degrees though as there's a fresh breeze.

Since you're not driving a Spider in the New Zealand summer, this might not be the most useful advice for you :p

Now onto yours...
I think you need to replace the thermostat - the gauge should be sitting at around 70-90 degrees after a five-minute drive (maybe ten minutes in winter). I bet your thermostat has failed slightly-open as they always do. Pretty easy job to change and the heater will work even better.

As for the diagnostics, I also have the weird temperature reading (which software are you using?) - that's probably the minimum possible reading, so it indicates a poor connection, open circuit, or faulty coolant temp sender. The coolant temp sender for the engine has a rectangular two-pin plug usually blue in colour (not the two separate terminals of the other sender - that's for the gauge and light). I haven't dealt with mine yet but again, it is a good idea to, because otherwise the engine management will be running it over-rich and wasting fuel.

Plus, the engine oil will be deteriorating with the fuel that makes it past the piston rings, and the moisture that condenses when the engine cools - a properly hot engine will evaporate this, but otherwise I think you should expect to change the oil once you've dealt with these two things. Sorry if this is a worst-case scenario but hopefully it gives you one opinion on what's going on :)

-Alex
 

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Plus, the engine oil will be deteriorating with the fuel that makes it past the piston rings, and the moisture that condenses when the engine cools - a properly hot engine will evaporate this, but otherwise I think you should expect to change the oil once you've dealt with these two things. Sorry if this is a worst-case scenario but hopefully it gives you one opinion on what's going on :)

-Alex
Interesting, thanks for posting this Alex. I have the thermostat to do on mine (barely gets to 70 on the motorway / in 5th gear) and as the blue car is newish to me, I'll be changing the oil and filter soon.
 

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I find that it's seasonal, i.e. dependent on the general outside temperature. At this time of year the normal running temperature of the car seems to run about 55/60 (unless I'm queued in traffic which then rises to 90). During the summer it will run at approx 90 nearly all the time.
Doesn't sound like there's any real problem.
 

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I've just done my thermostat this weekend. It was struggling to reach 60 but now sits fairly solidly at 90. It's a simple job if you make sure you have the right hose clips to put everything back together with. Glad I did it the engine feels so much better now.

...The interior warms up a lot faster too. Maybe I should leave some towels in my GTV, that leather is freezing on a morning!
 

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Thermosts should hold it rock steady at 90. If it is not getting up to temperature then stat or sensor; if after getting up to temperature it is fluctuating in any way then stat is defective.

If it properly overheats then either failed stat, blocked rad, failed cooling fan or failed cooling fan control circuit or air lock.
 

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Thermosts should hold it rock steady at 90
Should it?

I love this talk of the thermostat, its the one big mystery to me whilst I owned the GTV.

Could it also be that the gauges in the GTV miss read? :thumbs: for a good example my fuel light came on when it was past the bottom line but my mates GTV came on when it was on quarter. I never trusted these gauges to give an accurate reading :).
 

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Could it also be that the gauges in the GTV miss read? ... I never trusted these gauges to give an accurate reading.
I changed the thermostat and rad in my twinnie. Normal needle position on temp gauge seems low but heater works fine. I never take it above 3k revs (indicated !) until temp needle is off it's stop though.
 

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yup, mine on my old twinny was reading just above 50, changed the thermostat and straight up to 90 ish.

because it was cooling the engine too much it made the lamda sensor not get up to temp meaning my emissions were through the roof. All fun and games :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow thanks for all the replies guys! Guess i've now got this weekends work planned out.... will it ever end?!?! its a good job we love 'em
 

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Mine goes up to 100 after about 5 minutes, then drops rapidly to 80. Creeps up to 90, and stays there, give or take a degree.
The stat was changed a couple of months ago. Before that it never reached 90 at all.
 

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90ish

It's not unusual for the thermostat to scream open in the early stages of a journey and drop to about 70, then rise to 90 and stay there.
 

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Some gauges read low. The test for gauge reading low or thermost stuck or opening early is either read the ecu temeprature or check that the gauge is rock solid. If the gauge is geting up to 90 when sat in traffic but dropping below that when on a run the stat is defective.

NOTE: it seems that a lot of Alfa gauges are "damoed by the ECU. My son's 147 dash gauge displayed as follows:-

ECU between bottom and 82 degrees dash gauge read 8-10 degrees higher.
ECU between 82 and 98.5 (fan cuts in at this temp) then gauge solid at 90.

Conclusion if your gauge is fluctuating then the engine temp is fluctating by between 10 and 15 degrees. That must be a failed thermostat, block radiator, air lock or failing water pump. My money is on a failing thermostat.
 
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