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Discussion Starter #1
So how hard would it be to refurb your own alloys as mine are looking pretty sorry and needs a good going over.

I would of thought it would be like this,

Step 1 - Poly filler of some sort
Step 2 - Sand it all down so its nice and smooth :cool:
Step 3 - Spray the wheel the colour you want

What im not sure on is as im going to be doing the whole wheel, should I spray the wheel with some sort of primer or base coat?
 

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Iv done a couple:

Sand it all down to start with, then pay particular attention to the areas of damage. Use something like 600 - 800 wet and dry.

Then clean it all down, make sure its dry. Fill it using standard filler. Wait for it to dry.

Sand the wheel down with 1200gritt to ensure a nice smooth surface.

Clean it all down and ensure its dry.

Spray with the colour you want, do a really thin layer, leave it for 20 mins, then do another layer. Put as many layers as you want on. I would advise on around 4 - 5 good thin layers.

I didnt use any primer on my wheels.
 

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If your sanding the wheel down to the metal then you will need some etching primer. I would prime anyway, it just makes a better surface for the paint to adhere to.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Do you guys recommend leaving the tires on and taping paper around the tire or take them off?
 

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If leaving the tires on deflate them and then mask up. If I was doing it I'd pay someone to take the tires off. The better the prep the better outcome and the longer it will last. Make sure you spend plenty of time sanding them down with 600 grit paper and then smooth with say 800-900 grit.

Patience is definately a virtue with this kind of thing.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Tyres are an absolute ******* to mask because the tape never wants to stick. A better alternative is to paint eh tyre with liquid soap. Bosh a good thick layer on (cheapo washing up liquid from Netto is best) being careful not to get any on the wheel, paint it, let the paint dry and hose off. with apologies for the Fraudy Scrote wheel, here's one I prepared earlier.







 

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Tyres are an absolute ******* to mask because the tape never wants to stick. A better alternative is to paint eh tyre with liquid soap. Bosh a good thick layer on (cheapo washing up liquid from Netto is best) being careful not to get any on the wheel, paint it, let the paint dry and hose off. with apologies for the Fraudy Scrote wheel, here's one I prepared earlier.







Handy wee tip for doing steelies, I never would have thought of that :thumbs:.
I'm going to be respraying my wheels (17 inch multispokes) in the next few weeks, if anyone wants me to take a few pics and do a wee write up just say so.

**edit** fillers is a big no-no on wheels (especially the outer rim) apprently. I heard it cracks and can fall off during tire changes. I have been told it's brazing (sp?) and sanding only.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Handy wee tip for doing steelies, I never would have thought of that :thumbs:.
I'm going to be respraying my wheels (17 inch multispokes) in the next few weeks, if anyone wants me to take a few pics and do a wee write up just say so.

**edit** fillers is a big no-no on wheels (especially the outer rim) apprently. I heard it cracks and can fall off during tire changes. I have been told it's brazing (sp?) and sanding only.
Oh yes please with the small guide fella :thumbs:

Im going to be doing mine but slowly. So what shall I use to fill in the chips?
 

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I have never painted wheels before tbh but I used to spray kitchen doors with cellolose based paint and I do a bit of metal polishing including lip polishing. My method won't be perfect and I have a small bit of learing to do but I think that a combination of my skills should pull me through.
Basiacally I'm planning
1) Sand the outer lip with 80 grit working up to 800 grit to remove kerbing marks.
2) Sand the rest of the rim down to "key" the paint, grit unknown atm
3) Prime the whole wheel front and back
4) Sand with 1200 grit
5) Paint with silver paint (I'll get the code in a wee minute)
6) Optional sand with 2000 grit to knock back the orange peel for a better finish
7) Lacquer
8) Wetsand (with 2000 grit to remove the flys which will find the wet paint :rolleyes:) and polish, no wax/ sealent for 3 months.

Numbers 3, 5 and 7 should be preceded with a a rub down with something to remove any oils/ dust which may prevent the paint from bonding properly. I will be using Antisil 770/ 3M Aqua tack cloth becuse I already have it. Most people will only use a dry cloth ;).
 

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The primer I will be using is UPOL 20:20 Grey HS Primer Filler (3:1)
The paint is 2k and the code is 513VC, it should leave a hyper silver finish.
 

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Looking forward to the "step by step" with pics.
Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
You can buy degreasing wipes in Halfords to get rid of contamination before you paint. Or you can buy a gallon of panel wipe from your local paint factor for about a tenner and it was last for ages.

As for filler, if it's on the rim where the weights go, it might cause problems but otherwise it'll be OK provided it's only a very thin skim. Anything more than that and I would question the structural integrity of the wheel.
 

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Looking forward to the "step by step" with pics.
Good luck.
:thumbs:

As for filler, if it's on the rim where the weights go, it might cause problems but otherwise it'll be OK provided it's only a very thin skim. Anything more than that and I would question the structural integrity of the wheel.
I have stuff called "stoppers" which apparently goes over fillers (I'm painting my whole car) for a better finish. I wonder if this could be used on wheels on it's own?

Can't you use liquid metal? I'm pretty sure it's got aluminium in it for this sort of job.
You probably can, I assume that it's too hard to sand back for the average user (from my experience of using it to fix a carb bowl) and brazing is cheaper for professionals. I can't see why it won't work tbh, it can even be tapped and welded so it's definity stong stuff.
 

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t and back
4) Sand with 1200 grit
5) Paint with silver paint (I'll get the code in a wee minute)
6) Optional sand with 2000 grit to knock back the orange peel for a better finish
7) Lacquer
Can you sand metallic, I thought lacquer had to go over metallic without sanding?
 

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Can you sand metallic, I thought lacquer had to go over metallic without sanding?
I think this is one of those grey areas. I'm not sure and when I repaired my wheel I didn't sand the metallic because I thought it would alter the finish and once under the clearcoat your screwed.
 

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Can you sand metallic, I thought lacquer had to go over metallic without sanding?
It does. I will be applying a very thin coat of colour and a very thin mix of lacquer between wet sanding and lacquer stages. It's called a flow coat or something like that. Basiaclly it's 25% paint/ hardener and 75% thinners (same with lacquer) iirc. It helps to create a smoother finish. We had the same issues painting with pearl paints at work.
 

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It does. I will be applying a very thin coat of colour and a very thin mix of lacquer between wet sanding and lacquer stages. It's called a flow coat or something like that. Basiaclly it's 25% paint/ hardener and 75% thinners (same with lacquer) iirc. It helps to create a smoother finish. We had the same issues painting with pearl paints at work.
So are you going to wet sand the colour then apply this flow coat before putting the laquer coats on?
 

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So are you going to wet sand the colour then apply this flow coat before putting the laquer coats on?
Yep, I'm going to try the wetsanding & flow coat method on one wheel before I mess up all four :lol:
It should work though, pearl paints are far more fussy and they respond to this very well indeed :)
 
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