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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I'm quite into my ICE, i previously had a vibe space 12 in my boot in a false floor build, diamond audio hex 600 6.5" components in the front doors and alpine type-r 6.5" coaxials for rear fill in my stilo 1.8

All connected to a Car PC up front.

Every nook and cranny filled with expanding foam and covered in spectrum second skin sludge

Sounded brilliant!

Now in my 159, id like to do something more mature..

My thoughts:

- i will be installing a car PC (mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf?)
- Front & rear speaker amp mounted next to car pc also under the parcel shelf
- Dual 8" drives in a dual bandpass box behind the rear 1/3 of the seat
- Amp bolted to sub box
- Diamond audio hex 600 6.5" components up front
- Not sure what in the rear
- Deaden doors obviously

Questions:
- Will my diamonds fit in the front doors without modding?
- Where do you guys mount x-overs?
- How do you pass wires from amps to doors in the 159? (in the stilo i just drilled the A pillar then the door skin...not too keen on drilling my alfa :( )
- Would it be tooo bad an idea to send the amplified signal from the amp through the stock wiring (and x-over?) to the aftermarket speakers? (to avoid making holes)
- how hard is it to pass cabels end-to-end? (in the stilo the whole interior had to come out :( )

also please add any opinions :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
its a home-brew one...needs a litte tinkering, few hibernate issues, but specs are as follows

Processor: AMD Fusion A8
Motherboard: ASUS F1a75-i Delux (mini-itx)
HDD: samsung spinpoint 120gb 2.5" HDD
RAM: 4GB DDR3
Running windows 7 x64 and centrafuse front end
With USB attached SIRF-III GPS
 

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AO Silver Member, 155 Lounge Winner 09
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Questions:
- Will my diamonds fit in the front doors without modding?
- Where do you guys mount x-overs?
- How do you pass wires from amps to doors in the 159? (in the stilo i just drilled the A pillar then the door skin...not too keen on drilling my alfa :( )
- Would it be tooo bad an idea to send the amplified signal from the amp through the stock wiring (and x-over?) to the aftermarket speakers? (to avoid making holes)
- how hard is it to pass cabels end-to-end? (in the stilo the whole interior had to come out :( )

also please add any opinions :)
Not sure on max depth in the front doors. I've only inspected the doors, but the factory spacer is fairly deep (maybe 30-40mm), so after allowing for clearance of the window, I would expect the HEX woofer to fit (lovely speakers btw).

Presuming the tweeters will be 'in the cabin' (as opposed to in the doors), the xovers will want to be in the cabin. I would put them under the front seats, which distances them from any source of EMI which can otherwise cause interference.

Because the wiring into the doors are via Molex style plugs, it's usually not worth feeding new wire all the way through. If you do want to fit new wire, check for vacant holes in the plugs, drill them out, and feed your wire; I did this in my GT:
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL97/467659/19095446/313622717.jpg

Honestly, not worth doing unless you have to (I run my door woofers and tweeters 'active' in my GT, so 2 sets of wiring required). I suggest locating the factory speakerwires in the kickpanel areas behind the carpet/door sills, before the wires go into the door. Cut and join to the wiring here. Alternatively, run the speakerwire from the amp to behind the headunit, and tap into the speakerwires in the ISO plug (presuming you have no BOSE setup, because in BOSE these wires go to the amplifier; without BOSE, they go directly to the speakers).

Hence, using the factory speakerwiring to feed the door woofer is perfectly adequate (given the power involved; not like it'll be over 200WRMS going to the HEX woofer).

I've not run wiring through the 159, but the overall design of the car doesn't look unconventional. Of course, it's easier when you remove more of the interior, but I expect you can get away with removing the doors sills, the rear seat, and may need to remove the passenger seat to run the main powerwire.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not sure on max depth in the front doors. I've only inspected the doors, but the factory spacer is fairly deep (maybe 30-40mm), so after allowing for clearance of the window, I would expect the HEX woofer to fit (lovely speakers btw).

Presuming the tweeters will be 'in the cabin' (as opposed to in the doors), the xovers will want to be in the cabin. I would put them under the front seats, which distances them from any source of EMI which can otherwise cause interference.

Because the wiring into the doors are via Molex style plugs, it's usually not worth feeding new wire all the way through. If you do want to fit new wire, check for vacant holes in the plugs, drill them out, and feed your wire; I did this in my GT:
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL97/467659/19095446/313622717.jpg

Honestly, not worth doing unless you have to (I run my door woofers and tweeters 'active' in my GT, so 2 sets of wiring required). I suggest locating the factory speakerwires in the kickpanel areas behind the carpet/door sills, before the wires go into the door. Cut and join to the wiring here. Alternatively, run the speakerwire from the amp to behind the headunit, and tap into the speakerwires in the ISO plug (presuming you have no BOSE setup, because in BOSE these wires go to the amplifier; without BOSE, they go directly to the speakers).

Hence, using the factory speakerwiring to feed the door woofer is perfectly adequate (given the power involved; not like it'll be over 200WRMS going to the HEX woofer).

I've not run wiring through the 159, but the overall design of the car doesn't look unconventional. Of course, it's easier when you remove more of the interior, but I expect you can get away with removing the doors sills, the rear seat, and may need to remove the passenger seat to run the main powerwire.

:)
Had to devote some time to read that, i think ill just amplify the current rear speaker, they're good enough for rear fill. ill amplify the forn hex's and use the current wiring...just need a nice run of 0 guage to the boot for all the goodies :D


Hi Mz,

Have a look though my install thread, may give you a few ideas: http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/ice-and-blue-and-me/316638-alfa-159-hifi-install-3-way-active.html

There is a window rail that crosses behind the speaker hole in the door, but as long as the Helix aren't "too" deep, then you should be OK!
I have been, it's quite an intriguing read...i'm trying to save up enough to buy all the insulation and wiring to do it all in one fell swoop. dont fancy stripping it out more than once...

just ordered a nice capacitive touch screen and some other goodies to get the car pc up and running before i start gutting the alfa :O
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK peoples, i need a little help.

I'm pretty deiceided on what cables ETC im going to run, here's a breakdown:

- 5m HDMI boot to screen
- 5m power for screen
- 4m USB for hub in armrest
- 4m power for hub in armrest
- speaker cable up left for left speakers from amp
- speaker cable up right for right speakers from amp
Will splice into the wiring for the rears before they enter the doors and just amplify the stock speakers using stock wiring (for now)

Will run to X-overs under the front seats, then from there go to OEM wiring for speaker in door (which will become a HEX). then contiune fron X-over to the tweeter in the dash (also going to be replaced with HEX tweeter)

- 5m 0guage cable under car for powering everything.
- dizzy block in boot
- 5m switched live for PC turn on
- 5m loom for PC n/off switch & status LED's
- two Cat5e cables front to back (for future rojects and steerign wheel controls)
(will be bulding a small sub enclose with 2 kicker solobaric L5's 8" in a dual bandpass box when funds allow, hence running 0 guage, so im not caught short of power)

Now next hurdle, the screen i have slides into a double DIN mounting, but requires bolting in, no quick release.

Q1) what double DIN facia adapter have people used with good reuslts? (ie interior trim colour match, ease of fitting)
Q2) How hard/easy is it to access the side of the radio (both sides) to bolt/unbolt my screen?

all comments/suggetsions welcome! :)
 

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This may help; have a look at this Clarion pdf. You may be able to use a similar dashkit: http://www.clarion.com/cip/bracketmanual/BKX1001_03.pdf

I don't think all the dashkits offer the bolt-on plates, though most offer the cage. The plates may be adaptable to your screen.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This may help; have a look at this Clarion pdf. You may be able to use a similar dashkit: http://www.clarion.com/cip/bracketmanual/BKX1001_03.pdf

I don't think all the dashkits offer the bolt-on plates, though most offer the cage. The plates may be adaptable to your screen.

:)
many thanks :) exactly what i was looking for!

anyone know how long a piece of 0 gauge ill need to run from front to back?? most kits seem to come with 16feet....or i can get it by the meter for £15 meter :O that seems a bit steep when a kit is £35 ish...but i don't know if 16 feet will be enough?
 

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16' might just get you there. This presumes you have another short piece to go from the battery to the main fuse, and you mount the fuse relatively closely to the firewall, which will help keep the distance from the fuse to the boot to a minimum.

You can always add a distribution block if it's too short, then run secondary wires from there to each component/carputer.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Started today,

I won 8M of 0 gauge and 10m of 4 gauge from ebay for £30....so that sorted me

Ran the 8m form front to back under the car into the parcel shelf, covered the original sub-woofer "hole" with a piece of MDF and mounted the power distribution in there...

Ran all the necessary positive and negative cables...and im spent for the day

here are some pics



The power distribution...note the accidental holes...woops lol



where it comes out...i got crafty with the dremel to make holes for the cables in the sub-woofer holder



One of the amps mounted (the second one will go on the side of the sub-woofer box, so if needs be i can remove the sub and its amp in one go without disrupting anything else...



The power for the PC and the ground for the sub (note ALL cables are blue...lol)
 

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Good work. Be mindful that some amplifiers do not 'like' having their casing grounding to the chassis (via the screws/bolts); this can cause ground loops and thus interference (eg: alternator/engine 'whine'). See how it goes, but if you get noise issues, you may need to isolate it (eg: mdf to parcel shelf; amp to mdf).

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Or I could cheat and use plastic/rubber/ptfe washers? This amp was bolted directly to the seat backs in my old car and was fine (I assume the seats are grounded). So hopefully ill be fine....(although I may washer them anyway to be safe lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tadaaaa....its all in and done.

Well almost. my exams came up quick, so i had to streamline the installation, ive run all the cables, amp strapped to the parcel shelf, PC in, Dash modified, screen in. all working!

The amp is running the stock speakers for the moment till the exams are done then ill substitute in the diamonds and make my sub box (got two 10" drivers sitting next to my bed as a coffee table lol)

feels so good to get rid of that crap alfa media player...

pictures will follow soon-ish :thumbs:

EDIT: the amp is fine, with respect to interference, being screwed directly to the parcel shelf. no hisses, pops or whines, just clean sound (the stock speakers are frightfully good when amped btw...)
 

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Good work.

:)
 
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