Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 2006 147 Turbo diesel started coming up with VDC error, motor control system failure and generally running rough.

I thought i would have a look under the bonnet (i have no idea why as i'm not a mechanic) and noticed that this bit had come loose.
It appears to sit on 4 little black plug things which controls something. I cleaned it up and attempted to reattach it but the black bits seem to have worn and i need to get a new one.

I have showed 3 men and none of them have ever seen one before so i have no idea what it is.

Anyone able to assist?

Thanks the bit.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Hello. It looks like the control arm for the swirl flaps in the intake manifold. They seem to cause no end of problems. Do a search on here for more info. There will be loads of stuff about them. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Swirl flap control actuator.

This could be bad...running rough all of a sudden with this detached implies you have swallowed a flap...investigate immediately to avoid further damage. Your valves pistons and turbo are either already damaged or at risk.

Head off I'm afraid in worst case scenario.

VDC is stability control ..not to be confused with ASR. These two issues are seperate as the MCSF is usually down to engine management sensors either going faulty or sensing something outside of the normal parameters.

ABS and VDC are related but VDC errors are normally down to faulty yaw sensors rather than ABS gone bad.

If it were me step one would be read codes for VDC issues and what codes have caused the MCSF light.

Do not drive the car and get it recovered to a good indie for a look at the inlet manifold to see if the flaps are in place.

With any luck the arm has come off with the flaps still in place and you can do a de-flap and replace any faulty sensors.

Either way it needs codes read and inlet mani off for starters.

Hope it turns out to be a dodgy sensor or two and a de-flap. You could get away with around £500.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,768 Posts
From what ive seen on net ive not seen any of this type of manifold loose a flap, should be plastic flaps.
Leaking air via the spindles -yes
Flaps flopping causing overboost n underboost -yes
Depends what the op wants and can afford
Try autolusso pages on manifolds metal vs plastic for likely worst case scenarios.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
- First of all determine if you have plastic or metal swirl flaps. It looks identical to my plastic flaps.
- Just because the bar has come off, doesn't mean a flap has broken off
- My bar was off for 2 years and I did nothing about it
- You will probably have some pressure leaking from the spindles that it attached on to. Is their black oil around the spindles?
- I used to get a bit of blue smoke and slightly rough idle on a cold start, with a small drop in boost at higher revs

If you haven't got oil residue that I mentioned above, you can just re-attach the bar. You can buy a securing kit of ebay.
If you have got oil residue, I would recommend blocking those holes.

If you have the plastic swirl flaps and you have oil residue.....you could actually do nothing! I did for 2 years.
The plastic flaps are not as much of a problem as the metal flaps and don't tend to break off, I believe. Or if they do, they just get munched up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,219 Posts
That is the swirl valve conecting rod from the earlier ally manifold, the swirl valve bushes wear which allows then to lift up and down which pushes the rod off, they are probably leaking aswel.
You will need to get the code read to know if it is causeing the engine light.
Good news is its not the manifold that looses the flaps and causes engine damage.
Bad news is that you probably need a new manifold and possibly an actuator depending on the fault code, this is a big job, about £130 for the manifold, £100 for the actuator plus about 6 hours labour which involves taking the cam belt off and as its off you should really replace it unless its only just been done which is another £100.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
That is the swirl valve conecting rod from the earlier ally manifold, the swirl valve bushes wear which allows then to lift up and down which pushes the rod off, they are probably leaking aswel.

You will need to get the code read to know if it is causeing the engine light.

Good news is its not the manifold that looses the flaps and causes engine damage.

Bad news is that you probably need a new manifold and possibly an actuator depending on the fault code, this is a big job, about £130 for the manifold, £100 for the actuator plus about 6 hours labour which involves taking the cam belt off and as its off you should really replace it unless its only just been done which is another £100.

Why does he probably need a new manifold?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,219 Posts
Because it is the wear in the swirl valve bushes that allow the valves to lift and so the bar comes off, not helped by the poor design of the plastic parts where the bar attatches, if the valves are lifting enough for the bar to come off they will probably be leaking badly.
With the bar off the valves if they are not gummed up will be free to rattle around by them selves, so some cylinders will be running on 1 inlet port and others on both.
The fiix is a new manifold, or you could get the old manifold cleaned out and de flapped but if the actuator is creating the enginge fault light it would still need to be changed.
The brass botch fix caps might keep the rod on but it wont fix the leaking valves of coked up manifold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
Because it is the wear in the swirl valve bushes that allow the valves to lift and so the bar comes off, not helped by the poor design of the plastic parts where the bar attatches, if the valves are lifting enough for the bar to come off they will probably be leaking badly.
With the bar off the valves if they are not gummed up will be free to rattle around by them selves, so some cylinders will be running on 1 inlet port and others on both.
The fiix is a new manifold, or you could get the old manifold cleaned out and de flapped but if the actuator is creating the enginge fault light it would still need to be changed.
The brass botch fix caps might keep the rod on but it wont fix the leaking valves of coked up manifold.
An engine light will only come on if the electrical connector is not connected to the motor on the underside. If the bar has come off, the motor will still be moving flap 3 so no error will appear just because the bar is off. The OP said he had a VDC error, so maybe its another issue.

Nobody should care if their flaps are working anyway, as they do bugger all. There is no noticeable change to driving the car (8 years with the same GT) so getting a new manifold for that reason seems OTT.

Everyone's manifold is probably coked up to some extent. If it doesn't affect driveability, then seems reasonable to leave it alone. Blanking EGR helps, I believe.

I fixed my leaking valves for the grand cost of £2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,219 Posts
The engine light can come on if the actuator cant move because of a jamed number 3 valve, the actuator acts on number 3 and the others are moved by that on top by the bar, I think the code is p1109,

As I said with the bar off and if they're not jammed the valves will be spinning randomly, you can probably fix them in place with a £2 tube of araldite but if that fixes the whole problem would be upto the owner to decide.

Most professional garages would fit a new or cleaned defapped manifold.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top