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Help Removing Rocker Cover on GT 1.9 JTD

12K views 37 replies 11 participants last post by  sdays  
#1 ·
Afternoon!

My cambelt broke this morning :weeping: and after scanning a few threads on the forum I am hoping that I might have got away with a handful of broken rockers, but I would like to whip the rocker cover off and have a look. Can anyone tell me if I have to separate the injectors and fuel rail from the rocker cover, or do they come off all together?

Any tips gratefully received, I couldn't see a how to thread so I will create one as I go.

Here's a picture of the engine........

Cat
 

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#4 ·
Unlucky....sorry to hear that, when was it last done?


re the window,do you also have door open warning light when the door is closed?

If so water ingress is shorting the door sensor,this cause the window to go down every time you open the door but not back up again when you close it.

Hope the cambelt snap damage is minimal. If less than 60k since last done its got to be tensioner or failed water pump.

Good luck
 
#7 ·
Thanks!
Re the pesky window,
I will double check but I am pretty sure the door warning light isn't on. I've checked the switch in the door (working) checked the connector in the door next to the a-post (all OK with no signs of damage, chafing or corrosion), checked the fuses (all OK). The problem with the windows has been going on for a while now, really inconvenient in car parks!! I've been resigned to living with it as one of those mysterious Alfa electrical gremlins :irked: I know there are multiple threads on here relating to window issues and I think I have tried everything in them.

Re the belt, I have only myself to blame, as it's (cough) 67,464 miles since the first cam belt change. However I did notice that the (remains of) the belt has worn along one side so possibly something was not right with the pump or idler pulleys. Whatever I will change the pump regardless having read up on the issues!

I think I will post a separate thread on the mysterious window issues as I'd love to get to the bottom of it.
Cat
 
#10 ·
Operation Cambelt has commenced!

Objective: Remove the Rocker cover to view the damage

Method:
Disconnect the battery
Undo the fuel pipes from fuel rail to injector and remove - I numbered them 1-4 from the cambelt end so I know how to put them back.
Clean up around the injectors to make sure bits don't drop into the holes.
Undo the injectors and move to one side, cushioned on something soft!
Undo the bolts in the middle of the rocker cover revealed by the injector removal
Undo the fuel pipe into the fuel rail and unbolt the fuel rail - you might need to undo some more small bolts holding the electrical cables down so you can move the whole fuel rail/injector assembly to the side
Undo the bolts holding the cambelt covers on, this reveals another bolt to undo under the back one, you will need to jiggle this out of the way to get the rocker cover off if you have not fully removed the cambelt covers (detailed in the thread describing cambelt replacement, but I haven't done this bit yet).
Undo the two hoses that go on to the vacuum pump, near the oil filler cap
Undo the bolts for the rocker cover, tap gently with a copper hammer if it won't shift. Watch out for two locating dowels and a gasket when you remove the cover.

After inspecting the rocker arms and lifters, turns out I only have four broken rockers, which is a relief, and a new cambelt kit, water pump and rockers (from GSF) are ordered for a mere ÂŁ118.08 while I have a gasket on the way for ÂŁ7.70

Phew! Now to put it all back together and hope no valves are bent.

Hope the above assists someone in the future...
Cat
 

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#14 ·
After inspecting the rocker arms and lifters, turns out I only have four broken rockers, which is a relief, and a new cambelt kit, water pump and rockers (from GSF) are ordered for a mere ÂŁ118.08 while I have a gasket on the way for ÂŁ7.70

Phew! Now to put it all back together and hope no valves are bent.

Hope the above assists someone in the future...
Cat
Aren't there little roller bearings liberated when these break? Did you get them all recovered? Looks like you got away lightly:thumbs:
 
#17 ·
TBH you don't often hear of premature cambelt failures on the diesel, It is normally down to extending either the time or mileage at which it is specified to change it or not doing the water pump and tensioner etc at the same time, to be safe I would change at 60k or 4 years whichever comes first.


glad to hear you have been lucky though!


Alfafrv you will enjoy the GT far more than your 159 in tems of driving experience but may find it ''less refined''
 
#18 ·
i did a test drive and i found GT more "refined" :yes: 159 beats GT mostly in interior cockpit styling i'd say.some people say in build quality as well but i'll be investing in strongflex bushings to make sure all squeacks gone
i'm getting gorgeous blackline 1.9 JTDm with one previous owner only,tb/pump done today,clutch about a month ago.
can't wait until tomorrow :thumbup:
 
#19 ·
You should change all the rockers really, sometimes they break up at a later date otherwise. Good work though :)

Have you bought the timing tools for the engine? You need to insert both timing tools into the rocker cover while the cover is off the engine to ensure both camshafts are in time with one another as they can shift in the gears. You can't get the rear timing tool in with the rocker cover back on so now is the time to check it.
 
#20 ·
Ummm.
How likely are the camshafts to shift in the gears?! Have reassembled everything and the engine won't turn over :yikes: well, it turns 30-40 degrees in both directions, but not more.
Going to go recheck everything.......

In other news, the water pump was still intact, so still no idea what caused the belt to fail like it did.

Edit: I thought it was all going too well
 
#28 ·
It lives!!

After a bit of messing around trying to get hold of the cam timing tool.... eventually borrowed from a friend of a friend as no-one else could deliver before next Wednesday... the engine is back together and running.
Going to do an oil change before taking it for a test drive.

Phew!

Now all I have to do is get the driver's window shut.

Thanks very much to all contributors for the help and advice :thumbup:
 
#29 ·
if anyone can get you the dimensions of the camlocks you can make em out of hard wood...

I know, sounds mental but I did exactly that on my old E36 and it worked a treat, got the dimensions from the Haynes manual,a given that the job they do is vital but you don't need them to be machined out of steel....IMO they charge way to much for what they are.

oh and for the flywheel locking pin I used a suitably sized drill bit.

all that said

Alfa Romeo Cam Lock Tool
 
#34 ·
Hi all, sorry to resurrect an old thread. I'm going to replace my rocker cover gasket as I have a small leak that needs sorting. I have the cam locking tools but unsure when to use the inlet locking tool; if you can't fit it whilst on the engine is it only used to lock the inlet camshaft whilst the cover's off? What happens when you take the locking tool out before fitting the rocker cover back on - does it not matter as long as the exhaust locking tool is in?

Thanks for the help,
Sdays
 
#37 ·
You only need both timing pegs to set the inlet and exhaust cams relative to each other, on the bench. Unless the timing of the two cams has slipped, that won't be necessary - if the pegs go in easily, no adjustments are required.

You refit the cam box to the head with only the exhaust peg in place. The crank is locked using the other part of the tool (the post part screws into a handy bolt hole at about 10o'clock to the crank pulley). A bit of silicone RTV on the waterpump bolt shanks is a good idea as they penetrate the water jacket and can leak. Then install the cam belt, setting the horizontal marks across the belt to coincide with the index marks on the cam pulley, HP pump and crank. Then adjust the tensioner correctly, tighten the tensioner locknut and check it is still set correctly. Remove the cam peg and crank lock, rotate the engine 2x and check everything is aligned by locking off the crank again and reinserting the peg. If so, and it should be, remove the timing tools and feel smug.