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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I have been going at it trying to get the tear callipers off for over an hour. Not the cage, just the caliper that goes over the pads. I have managed to get the top bolt lose on the passenger side and the bottom bolt lose on the driver side. I tried to move the caliper round and out the way to get the pads out but had no luck so I need to get the other two bolts out (one each side). Am I missing a trick? Do they turn the other way for some reason? The only luck I have had so far is with a17mm spanner and a hammer to loosen the bolts and then get a 13mm spanner to use with the 17mm spanner to get the bolt out. I am sure if you have done this, you will be able to get what I mean.
 

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Spent an hour trying to turn the calipers on one bolt?

Dude I'd have spent maybe 2 minutes trying before just taking both mounting bolts out and sliding the whole caliper off...

Allows easier access to the pads, proper inspection of the slide pins etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe I have not been clear, it's these bolts I have been trying to get out. I am not looking to take the whole caliper off the car, just the bolts so that I can get the "cover" off and then I will have room to remove the pads, push back the callipers, change the discs and pads and remount the cover.
 

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That's what I was talking about - two bolts, caliper/piston out of the way (leave the carrier/frame attached), pads changed etc...

What trouble you having with the bolts?

13mm on the mounting bolt, then a 15mm holding the slide pin... Shouldn't be done too tight!

This PDF guide is pretty useful, got me through my rear pad change on my first go: http://www.alfa156.net/tech/Alfa156Brakes.pdf
 

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I used that guide too.

From memory the carrier can be left alone and it is possible to slide new disc onto the hub with only the caliper removed. This makes the job reasonably easy. The hand brake cable can stay attached but make sure it is off and maybe loosened a bit from the bolt under the lever. The caliper is held by 2 bolts with nylock and no washers. My memory is a little hazy but i don't remember it being weird or particularly Alfa. I did the fronts at the same time so I'm struggling to recall exactly. Maybe your discs have just been on for ages and nobody thought to copper grease anything. I think i couldn't get a socket on the bolt head because it was too deep and had to use a ring spanner instead. There was a lack of leverage but i used my trusty rubber hammer.

I can recommend plus gas. It's better than wd40. I'd also recommend buying new bolts when it goes back together and some copper grease.

Judging by your bolts expect the discs to be well and truly stuck to the hub.

Turning the pistons back in can also be fun unless you have the right tool.
 

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Discs definitely won't come off on my car without removing the caliper carrier. Whether or not this is necessary seems to vary with the different models. The carrier will come off with spanners if the bolts aren't stuck. Sockets won't fit unless the rear strut bolts are moved out of the way, which is a whole different problem in itself.

And you need the right tool to TURN and push the rear caliper pistons back in, you can't just push them.
 

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Discs definitely won't come off on my car without removing the caliper carrier.
Wouldn't on mine either.
Think the 276mm rear discs may be easier to get out than the 251mm.
(I had the 251mm)
 

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Done my discs on my gt recently rear discs seized on hub but did come off with carrier in place. Fronts had to remove carried
 

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Wouldn't on mine either.
Think the 276mm rear discs may be easier to get out than the 251mm.
(I had the 251mm)
+1 on this, when I had 251's on you can't remove the disc with the carrier in place, but when I upgraded to 276's I found that you can with a bit of jiggling.
 

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Is the carrier a different design then?

Bigger disc coming off easier doesn't seem intuitive!
Because the caliper is further out I'm sure it gives you more space to get the disc off of and on to the hub.
 

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Sure I've got 251mm discs and never taken rear caliper mounts off ... It almost impossible with the strut in place anyway.

And in response to OP's dilemma ... Take both caliper bolts out and lift caliper away. Hold inner bolt with spanner and remove outer bolt. They don't flip like some cars ...
 

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With my 147 (251mm disks) the old disks removed without removing the calliper cage, however, to fit the new ones the extra thickness meant that the cage had to come off, there just wasn't enough space to get the new ones in.
By the way I was very happy with the Brembo disks and pads from Euro Car parts - not only were they the disks with coating on the hub and edge so they won't rust as quickly but the pads came complete with fitting kit. The click and collect price meant that the disks and pads together cost less than I was charged just for parts last time I had new rear pads!
 

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Just resprayed my rear calipers this weekend, you need to push back on the hydraulic caliper to free the pads, u can use a normal flat screwdriver for that, there is a notch which u can reach from the top, just push it off the pad and everything becomes nice and loose and u can slide them out. First remove the top and bottom screws, its a 13 spanner.
 
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