[GTVblackandred]

Please can somebody help me! I have read the posts for changing the clutch master cylinder on the 2.0 T Spark, but I cannot tell where the reservoir pipe enters the bulkhead on the V6. There is an aluminium heat shield against the bulkhead. I can see the brake master cylinder OK, then there is like a metal box bolted to the bulkhead roughly where I would expect the clutch master cylinder to be located. Must I remove this? I can't even get my hand down to unbolt the aluminum heat shield. Is it an engine out job on the V6?

Help! Please!

 

[Rich_wookey]

I removed the clutch master cylinder on my spares car, and had the same issue. Because I wasn't refitting it, I cut the pipe! (It Turned out to be completely different to the cylinder we wanted to replace on a LHD car, so was a waste of time!)

If I ever had a duff master cylinder on a RHD car, I would 1st try a seal repair kit and fit with the cylinder in place

Rich

 

[pkr]

I'm not sure exactly how different the V6 is from the TS ( the RHD manual doesn't seem to make any distinction between the two so I assume the master cylinder is inside the car as on the TS ).

This is a picture of the TS clutch master cylinder -

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m615/pkr1/2011-11-15_09-16-44_DSC_0097_zps3nl1w4ep.jpg

You can see the fluid pipe coming through the bulkhead and connected to the cylinder body. With the photo in mind, you may be able to get your hand up there to see if the V6 is the same.

The box you can see in the engine bay may be the lid over the bonnet release and throttle cable quadrants.

 

[GTVblackandred]

It has taken me a long time and the job transformed into a major brake system rebuild and suspension and underneath painting.

This ranks as one of the hardest jobs I have done on a car so far!

I think accessing the master cylinder from the engine side of the bulk head on the 3.0 is probably easier than for the 2.0. I removed the breather pipes to the rear of the rear cam cover, removed the alloy heat shield from the rear bulkhead. The bottom plastic nut was a bit tricky to get my fingers onto with a socket but it was harder to get a spanner on the nut on the back of the master cylinder. Spraying WD40 and letting it work its way in was important I think. I unclipped the reservoir pipe feed and rubber pipe.

I removed the drivers seat, drivers under dash trim, disconnected the accelerator pedal and proceeded to remove the master cylinder. It was very difficult. You have to learn to cope being upside down with your head in the footwell with a torch to undo the accelerator link rod from the electric servo and to unclip the accelerator spring. The hardest bit was refitting the new master cylinder and getting the left side nut on. I used gasket sealant in the socket and some washers to hold the nut without dropping it. I used a series of extensions and shoved the accelerator metal so I could get a horizontal shot at the protruding bolt for the master cylinder. Very tricky.

Reassembly on the engine side was easy really in comparison. I bought new 7mm ID EPDM pipe from Car Builder Solutions and this went through the bulkhead easy with some WD40. On the positive side at least I know how to do it. Just hope I never have to replace the brake master cylinder!!!