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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone im new to alfas as of this month. I bought a 2003 alfa 156 2.4jtd lusso. I love the car, the red leather seats and that strange 5 cylinder diesel roar. HOWEVER!!!
1)the temperature gauge has never got above 1/4 mark, normally sits slightly below - Does this just mean a thermostat change will cure or are there more dasterdly problems that might cause this. How long/how much?...
2) the engine management light has come on 4 times in the 3 weeks i've owned it, when i put my foot down at about 1500revs after i've been cruising along with hardly any load for a while. It flashes up for 1-2secs then goes off. whats it saying?
3) the clutch has started slipping, how much, could i do it myself (used to own triumph dolly sprint and rebuilt it...some idiot pulled out on me...hence the new alfa), and wheres best to take it if not?
thanks for any replies, im flailing around with no knowledge here...:(
 

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i would say a thermostat will cure the temp problems very common not the easiest job though.
as for the clutch ive never done one but im told it is a nightmare on these sorry
 

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hey 'haveyoubooked' -dolly sprint ,I can see your A real petrol head and a gluten for punishment also ,I also suffer from this affliection(having owned a series of classics including a tr7 with a sprint engine) but sometimes great cars have great design faults
welcome to alfa ownership ,ive just changed my thermostat and it seems to have fixed the problem and stays mostly bang on 90 ,a diesel might stay at a lower temp anyway ,although after that i had a cooling fan issue , and had to sort that out also

currently rebuilding a mk1mr2 engine
 

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I just replaced the thermostat in my 2.4 and it now sits just below 90 in the cruise instead of just below 70 which it did on the old stat.

Can't comment on the clutch as I've never replaced one either.
 

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Thermostat for temp problem. Got one waiting to go on mine.

What is the mileage of your motor?

Is it a 150 or 175 HP 10 valve?

I had similar problem on mine around 60k miles, got slowly more frequent. I managed to push Alfa into providing a replacement turbo fitted for £420. :cry: It was alledgedly faulty but I was outside the warranty. Local dealer fitted a recon (looked like new) turbo which howls like a police siren. Got some remarks this morning at Red Dot whilst getting a remap done.

Anyway, I don't know how long these duff turbo's were produced but you need to get it along to someone (an Alfa dealer perhaps or indi specialist) who can put it on to an examiner and read the fault code(s) which will be stored in the ECU. You need to do it within 20 engine starts of the fault occuring else the ECU erases the code. They can then tell you the cause of the fault.

Best of luck :)

Jerry
 

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Had a new stat fitted about 2 weeks ago on mine and bill came to £180. Sits nicely at 90 now. Which reminds me, I still have to pay my man.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hi everyone, thanks for all your replies i will try putting a new thermostat in, ignore the engine management warning and hope that the clutch doesnt get any worse. I really am loving the alfa, ive done 400 miles this weekend with no glitches despite the problems ive mentioned. I love the bose and leather its like been sat in a living room whilst doing ridiculous speeds up the motorways...! its done 90k in answer to someones question. And yes i am a petrolhead (until now), ive always had classic minis and a dolomite sprint, just building a race turbo mini at the mo. thanks again
 

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Change the stat it might make a difference.
I have changed a clutch and it is a ***** 13hrs with a lift and a fully equiped workshop and it still slipped even after.if you are going to replace it look for the uprated one on ebay.
 

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Bear in mind if the temp has been low the engine management would be giving you a rich fuel mixture , therefore wrong readings for the ECU, GIVING YOU A WARNING.
Clutch was replaced on mine after 74,000 new DMF BUT WAS ONLY JUST IN TOLERANCE,no slippage since though and car has been fine.
 

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Thatis the Lambda probe sensing overfueling and being unable to correct it due to the faulty thermostat keeping the engine cold and the ECU in the cold start programme, replace the thermosts and it will stop.

Replacing the clutch (and flywheel (advisable on diesels)) DIY would set you back around £600 and I'd drop the subframe on a JTD, roughly 7 hours start to finish (but be prepared to do some suspension work too, this is when you find everything is shot).
 

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Hi, My 2.4JTD temp sat at the 1/4 mark from the day I bought it and when asked a very very competant specialist said it was definately not right and would be putting excess wear on the engine. I had a new stat' fitted (under Motorcare warranty:lol:) perfecto 90 degress on the button. I also had / have engine management light issues. When I test drove the car before buying it the light came on at 3250 and when it was on there was noooooo power. One MAF later & I still get the light flash on for 1 - 2 sec's under acceleration when above 3250 revs but no noticable drop in power and nothing picked up by the diagnostic check - so keep it nailed:thumbs: and ignore it. As for that noise - how do they get a diesel to sound that GOOOOOOOOD:)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hey thanks again, i no watcha mean about that diesel sound. That clutch sounds a complete and utter cow! may have to change the flywheel too then?! Thanks for all your advice, im gonna get that thermostat donethis week if i get a few hours to spare. My turbo howls like a banshee as well, thought it might be nacd but if yours sound the same then its probably alright.
Just wonderin if theres any way to calibrate the trip computer as its total milage readout is way less than the one on the speedo when they are both reset after i fill up (around 100 miles difference when its a full tank to empty). Also i had a "63 mph" exceeded flash up just as i got past what speedo and satnav said was 95mph!. I assume they must get their speed information from the same sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hey up everyone. Just an update. It seems the car hasnt had any stick for the last 8 months. The bloke i bought it off was in his late 50's and had a company car too so he hardly used it (not touched in 3 weeks when i bought it!). So when me as "enthusiastic" driver got hold of it some probs showed as described.

However, the clutch seems to have adjusted itself with my heavier aggresive changing, and the same for the engine management light flashups - on that note, i bought a thermostat last week and tried to fit it tonight (wrong one, mine has another 2 -3 outlets!!!). To get to it i had to take the air feed to the throttle body off to get the battery out to get to the stat... Anyway in the bottom of the throttle body was very small pool of oil.

I'm thinkin that during said old geezers lazy drives around town the oil spill off from the turbos 3000 miles of never above 2500revs drivin collected in the throttle body. So when i start booting it that oil would have been sucked into the engine, overrichening the mixture, giving warning an me that loss of power. Now oil is damn near gone (in last 2 weeks no light on) theres no probs. Is this a possible explanation?

Thermostat ended up costing me £77 of internet insteas of £40 i paid for the wrong one i got from my local autofactors. its got more sensors and pipes on tho. grrrr
 

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i had the same problem with my stat had to buy genuine in the end £77 with a temp sender fitted in it (wrong one)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
aah that was just the stat. seems it fits 2.4jtd models upto may 03. june they changed and put another pipe underneath which is t shaped and threads into the stat housing (comes with part) and also sensor is fitted - i guess thats why it costs more. Got my refund today it was £37 and some pence cant remeber exactly. It was a QH (quinton hazel) part which are good quality to fit 2.4jtd 156 >05.03 models from local autofactors LINCO....

Labour 1 hour!!!!!!!! took me 20 minutes just to get the damned battery off, and 20 mins to get it back on after i realised i had the wrong one... remove turbo boost pipe, remove primary power distribution box, remove battery strap, try and remove battery, curse and push distribution box back some more, curse and bend turbo pipe out the wayt somemore, cut knuckles, curse.... Is it to big a battery or are they all a pain in the but. Im used to workin on my turbo classic mini and thats easier than that piggin battery!!!!!
 

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if you think thats bad wait till you get to the egr cooler thats bolted through the stat stud get the bandages and swear box out your going to need it
 
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