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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.

I had a new clutch fitted to my GT JTD last week and since then its hard to initially get into gear for the first change only.

I.e. if I get in the car in the morning and try to shift into 1st or reverse its very hard to engage. However once I get it into 1st I can then put it back to Neutral or any gear straight away very easily which suggests the issue isn't actually do with how hot or cold the car is.

Any ideas?
 

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My gearbox was just like this after my new clutch 30k miles ago...

I tried swapping the gearbox oil, molyslip, cleaning up the gear selector mechanism, re-bleeding the slave cylinder etc.. Nothing ever really helped it.

I certainly find it eases when everything has warmed up nicely... I also find that if I go into third gear first with the clutch depressed, I can find first much easier..

Gearbox is smooth as butter with the engine off....

Almost feels like a slight draggy clutch causing difficulties finding gear when stationary, but the car doesn't creep forward at all when held in gear with the clutch depressed.. By the time I really understood it, I'd covered about 12k miles so was far too late to take it back to the garage!

I suspect a slight misalignment inside the bell housing, or something sticking up and turning when it should be stationary.. Doesn't feel too serious, and I've found a way of managing it...

Let me know if you find anything, as I'll be interested to know!
 

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Ahhhh I'm gonna regret dragging this back up.... But RC got me thinking...

What are the failure modes for the hydraulic cylinders?

I'd agree that it seems like a hydraulic issue not actuating the fork enough - however there's no fluid leaks, no soft pedal because of air in the system, and the brake fluid res is nice and topped up.

Any failure modes of either cylinder that would cause incomplete movement, but with no external leakage?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My car is going into the garage tomorrow so should hopefully let you know

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
 

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Ahhhh I'm gonna regret dragging this back up.... But RC got me thinking...

What are the failure modes for the hydraulic cylinders?

I'd agree that it seems like a hydraulic issue not actuating the fork enough - however there's no fluid leaks, no soft pedal because of air in the system, and the brake fluid res is nice and topped up.

Any failure modes of either cylinder that would cause incomplete movement, but with no external leakage?
I totally agree what your saying.. But you need to ask yourself what faults can happen internally on the hydraulic cylinder maybe a weak internals just enough not giving it's 100% hence only working when it does
 

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I totally agree what your saying.. But you need to ask yourself what faults can happen internally on the hydraulic cylinder maybe a weak internals just enough not giving it's 100% hence only working when it does
Thing is, that it was a new slave cylinder that went on about 5k before the pressure plate failed... So in theory that one is is good nick...

Plus it's not like a cable system where the cable can stretch or similar.. If my left foot is displacing a volume of incompressible fluid in the master cylinder, then the same displacement occurs in the slave cylinder right?

In my mind, they either work or they don't... and when they don't, they leak...

Trying to avoid chucking money/parts at it without at least a bit more info to go on!

Will wait and see what hazkirby comes back with I guess...
 

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Hi.

I had a new clutch fitted to my GT JTD last week and since then its hard to initially get into gear for the first change only.

I.e. if I get in the car in the morning and try to shift into 1st or reverse its very hard to engage. However once I get it into 1st I can then put it back to Neutral or any gear straight away very easily which suggests the issue isn't actually do with how hot or cold the car is.

Any ideas?
Interesting that it started with a new clutch, was it an Alfa clutch? Mine does the same on its original one: difficult just for the first change in the morning. If I start the engine with the clutch out (recommended practice in cold weather) the first selection is easy, even if I engage the clutch before dis-engaging it again for the first change.

On mine it may be a facet of the F40 box's notchiness, but could also be the driven plate sticking to the flywheel or pressure plate, like brake pads sometimes do to disks.

So: if you start the engine with the clutch out (and let the juddering of the first few firing strokes shake the driven plate free) does it make the first change easy on yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The only thing that made it easier is going into 2ND first. I had the issue you are describing before (but for all gears) on original clutch about a year ago especially when colder weather kicked in, and refreshed the clutch fluid / bled the slave and the issue went away.

Just spoke to the garage about the new clutch issue and they said there was air in the system so now should be resolved. Sounds like it wasn't bled properly first time round.

So two similar issues resolved by bleeding/fluid flush. I will pickup car in about an hour and will post back how I find it.

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Just spoke to the garage about the new clutch issue and they said there was air in the system so now should be resolved. Sounds like it wasn't bled properly first time round.
Hmmm....

Can't say I've actually tried re-bleeding the slave... Will pick up a small bottle of DOT4 and give the clutch system a bleed through this weekend.. Certainly doesn't feel like air in the system like it did last though!

Let us know how it feels!
 

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I've got exactley the same issue. I had a new clutch fiitted 2 days ago. 1st and reverse are getting progressivley worse, but were fine when i picked the car up from the garage. I had a complete new clutch kit but didn't replace the flywheel. Could this make a difference!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I didn't have fly done either.

It's much better now although still notchy. Guess that's normal on a cold day



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I tried bleeding mine twice when mine was playing up.. Trust me replace the slave it will feel 100 times better..mine is silky-smooth!

The internal piston gets weak causing it to fail and not get full compression hence gear crunching
 

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I tried bleeding mine twice when mine was playing up.. Trust me replace the slave it will feel 100 times better..mine is silky-smooth!

The internal piston gets weak causing it to fail and not get full compression hence gear crunching
If the slave isn't producing enough travel the clutch will drag. You can test for a dragging clutch by selecting 1st (with the engine running), then hold the clutch out and select neutral. Wait a few seconds with the clutch held out and try 1st again. If the clutch is dragging the driven plate will be turning again and 1st will be difficult again. If the clutch is good and the plate is still stationary, it will be like engaging the gear with the engine off, which should be easy.

The test will be more sensitive with the gearbox warm, after a motorway run, since a warm box turns more easily, but it's harder to tell the difference between pass and fail because the synchros work better when warm.
 
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