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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stalled for the first time today whilst approaching a roundabout, was braking and changing down and I think I hit the wrong gear?

Anyway I made it out the other side (damn that steering gets heavy when the engine cuts!) and started back up, but now the gear change feels weird?

Notchy when engaging, all gears as far as I can tell... Stiff to actually push into gear, but feels absolutely fine side to side..

Parked up on the drive now, probably won't be taking it out again until Monday so will see what that brings..

Anyone got an idea of what's going on there?!?

I replaced the top-hat bushes on the selector about a month ago, and cleaned/lubed the selector mechanism.. Up until just now it's felt smooth as silk!
 

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Sounds to me as though your clutch isn't disengaging properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is what was happening a while back, ended up changing the slave cylinder which seemed to cure everything and give me a nice feel on the pedal again... Clutch still feels good to my foot, but yea it could similar...
 

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Does your car have the self adjusting pressure plate? If so perhaps the juddering of a stall somehow tripped it a notch or two 'tighter'.
 

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Hopefully someone here knows what plate you have, failing that, a dealer. As for telling whether it's tripped: good question. If you have an external slave cylinder you might (I think) notice that the rest position of the operating arm has moved in the release direction, but the difference is probably small. If you can get a pry bar to the lever while the engine is running and find that moving it beyond what the cylinder achieves gives a clean gear change that might be an indication that tha plate has tripped. Don't overstress the mechanism though. Bleed the cylinder to make sure it is achieving full stroke first.

I hope for your sake that I'm all wrong on this, because as far as I am aware, the plate must be removed to be reset.

As a first step: if you get the car on smooth level ground with the hand brake off, then try to select 1st gear (with the clutch depressed) and the car tries to move, then that does at least confirm that the clutch is dragging. Then bleed the clutch and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As a first step: if you get the car on smooth level ground with the hand brake off, then try to select 1st gear (with the clutch depressed) and the car tries to move, then that does at least confirm that the clutch is dragging. Then bleed the clutch and try again.
I'll try that today, see what it shows me! Its an '07 plate if that's any help?
 

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Edit to above: wait 5 seconds after depressing clutch before engaging 1st to allow the driven plate to slow down.

Check that the slave cylinder bracket has not cracked, bolts tight, no leaks, cylinder not moving when operated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No clutch drag when selecting first at a standstill... Tried a few times on my drive, absolutely no movement or difference in engine noise when getting into gear..

Gears feel fine when at a standstill and the engine is off, but clunky and awkward when the engine is running and I'm stationary..

I did an engine oil change yesterday and fitted new rear pads, struggling to see any way that might be related though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just checked out the slave.

All clean, no leaks or movement in it's housing at all.. Bled through fresh fluid, got a little black junk but no air at all...

Clutch pedal feels the same as before, no change to the gearbox feel. Checked the gearbox oil too as I was in there, just above the min level on the dipstick and looked very clean...
 

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If a dual mass flywheel develops axial play (due to the juddering at stall) it can push the whole clutch assembly towards the gearbox, and the slave piston with it. When you press the clutch the slave doesn't have enough travel to put the dmf back where it belongs and release the clutch fully, so the gears are stiff. If you press the clutch several times before starting and HOLD IT DOWN the dmf should be pushed back and the gears will engage smoothly. If you then release the clutch and rev the engine in neutral, then return to idle and declutch and try a gear it should have gone stiff again - if this is the problem.

Perhaps the clutch drag is too slight to be detected by the car rolling test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK will try that.. Would it be worth slipping some sort of shim between the slave piston and actuator arm to give it a little extra reach?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No beuno :-(

Lots of pumping the clutch, held it down, started the engine, still stiff as hell! Revved in neutral and returned to idle speed, still the same.. Although the free revving engine seems to return to idle quicker than it used to? Might be imagining that however...

I think there might be a little drag however, very slight movement of the car (a slight rocking) when I try and engage gear, and a corrrsponding small dip in revs (20-50rpm I'd guess)..
 

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The hydraulics will self adjust for the shim, so no, it won't help.

I'm not sure I made one bit of that test clear:

........the dmf should be pushed back and the gears will engage smoothly AFTER THE ENGINE IS STARTED.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here's what I did:

1. Pump the pedal to it's full extent a few times with engine off.
2. Hold pedal down, start engine.
3. Attempt to find gear.
4. Gearbox in neutral, release clutch pedal.
5. Rev engine to about 3000rpm and let it return to idle.
6. Clutch in again and look for a gear.

At no point while the engine was running was it easy to find a gear, I could clonk it into first but it didn't feel correct..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Could my fiddling with the brakes have cocked up the hydraulics somehow?

I wound the calipers back in using a winder tool, but haven't re-adjusted anything anywhere.. Just a thought as it seems to be a damned unlikely coincidence...
 

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Ok, so probably not that then. I think the best I can suggest is that if you can be absolutely certain that the release mechanism is working properly then the problem, whatever it is, must be inside the bell housing or gearbox.

Ideally measure the slave working stroke and compare with AR data - which I don't have. Otherwise get your head into the footwell while someone operates the clutch and check that all the pedal travel is being transfered to the master cyclinder. A friend's Scoda once gave 'your' symptoms because only two of the three bolts holding the master cylinder had been replaced. The whole unit was flexing off the bulkhead. The pedal didn't feel right though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think at this point I've exhausted my set of troubleshooting tools...

As far as I can tell the clutch hydraulics look good, but I agree it doesn't seem to be disengaging properly... Might have to be a trip over to the local garage tomorrow morning and just let them look at it, I should be able to borrow one of their courtesy cars to get to work while they poke about with it...
 
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