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Discussion Starter #1
Had my 71 Gt 1300 junior taken to peter baldwin at eilsher garages near cambridge. An old boy who only does race cars and carbs.

After initially finding that there was so much soundproofing over the top of the accelerator stoo I had never been getting full throttle. So removed all that. Adjusted rod linkage on throttle. Screwd accelerator stp down as far ad it would go. New points. Bad earth on condensor . Checked plug gaps. Adjusted timing. Set up carbs for the k+ns I fittrd 6 mobths ago.

So for a 40 year old engine that should have 87bhp at 6200rpm it now has 105bhp at 6200rpm

The difference is unreal. Doesn't bog down. Noisier now the throttles are wide open. And much nicer to drive.

£240 but well worth it.
 

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Quality:cool:
 

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Wow, very nice surprise. Are you sure that somebody hasn't fitted a 1600 engine in the past and kept quiet about it? Because those power figures sound about right for a 1600.

Some years back Mick Walsh (Classic & Sportscar editor then) was racing his 1600 Duetto. Kept wondering why he didn't do well in his class. Took the car in for some work and found that it had been fitted with a 1300 but no record of it.

Also, I think older engines often produce good power. A bit more clearance means less friction and so long as the compression is OK you'll get very good power from an older engine.
 

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You can easily check the engine size by looking for the symbol on the cam chain cover at the front of the Engine.

Both my Bertone's have produced peak power figures in excess of the original specifications along with nice chunky torque curves. The Nord is an excellent engine and even at the age they are now can still push out the power.

Gaining full throttle travel was something else I found useful too.... !

Just to temper this though, you do need to remember that the crank shaft RR figures are rarely perfectly accurate as they are based on the 'at wheels' figure plus an uplift for transmission losses and of course different machines will give different figures. They at their best when comparing a before and and after figure for tuning, which as you say has shown a very useful increase in your case:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My engine number is definatly a 1300, its the origenal with the car as I have the import paper work it had from the factory to nairobi.

Plus, isnt the 1300 a shorter block than the 1600, 1750 + 2000. Which is why my k+ns were such a ***** to fit against the inner wing.
 

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My engine number is definatly a 1300, its the origenal with the car as I have the import paper work it had from the factory to nairobi.

Plus, isnt the 1300 a shorter block than the 1600, 1750 + 2000. Which is why my k+ns were such a ***** to fit against the inner wing.
Yes it's shorter, but K&N's are still difficult to fit depending on their depth, the ones on my 2000 practically touch the inner wing.

Good output for a 1300:thumbs:

What was the torque, did you get a print out?.
 

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Ahh, yes that's beyond tight, mine go over the lip on the inner wing as they are about twice as deep. But clearance is tight between the bottom of the filter and the top of the wing.

I think most of the RR set ups can do print outs, certainly the one I have of my 1750 is taken from an old 'Sun' machine which must have been a couple of decades old. It used the 'coast down' system to work out power at the flywheel from the losses in the transmission, 134BHP at 5830 rpm was my peak, with 134ft/lb at about 2000 revs, staying above 130 right up to 4500 rpm. You can work out torque if you know the revs and the power as it's a linear equation.

I didn't get a print of the 2000 session which was at a different place, but the dial on that was reading power at the wheels, 120BHP on mine. I think that would equate to about 140 at the fly.

Not bad at all for these old lumps:)
 

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I had a semilar test done on my former 75 2,0 L (single spark) and it worked out at 132 HP at the fly. The loss in trans was about 20% afa I remember. The 750 2,0 L's official power output was 128 HP.
It had done about 45k km = 28k miles.
Erik
 
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