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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
<<<< NOTE: REMOVE NEGATIVE LEAD OF THE CAR's BATTERY BEFORE COMMENCING WORK >>>>

Dreaded Immobiliser Error light: :)

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/alfenia20l/immobiliser/immobiliser-error.jpg

1. Remove the bezel from the bottom of the steering wheel

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/alfenia20l/immobiliser/cover-on-off.jpg

now you can see the Ignition Barrel & Antenna:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/alfenia20l/immobiliser/antenna.jpg

2. Remove the Cover between steering wheel & Door.

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/alfenia20l/immobiliser/remove-fuse-panel.jpg

Open the 2 10mm bolts that holds the fuse panel in place:

Now move it IN & DOWN to get better access, see next picture

3. Open the 2 10mm bolts that hold the ECU in place:

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj289/alfenia20l/immobiliser/ecu-location.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)

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Re: 156 Immobiliser

And then.......

Let me guess, unplug the aerial wire and the connector to the Main ECU (I call the one you've shown in the "tiny" picture the code box) and then reconnect them and all may be well?

If you are malformed you can unplug them without removing the code box......and sometimes plug them back in again:lol:


EDIT: Dammit - Pat posted just before my post hit the internet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Re: 156 Immobiliser

Once fixed re-connect the 2 wired connector to the ECU.

Re-assmble as much as you want for testing, might be best to leave things loose until its confirmed to work.

When re-fitting the steering column bezel there are 2 GUIDES in the top 1/2 that have to fit into to holes in the bottom 1/2... BE CAREFUL doing this.

When power is re-connected the ECU should/will recgonise the key & the car will start.

Might be best to clear any stored errrors on the ECU.

BTW: Removing the steering wheel bezel may not be required as its usually the wiring at the white connector that either breaks or is loose.... form what i've read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: 156 Immobiliser

Tools:

Flash Light
10mm spanner [ rachet type make life easier ]
10mm socket & long extension [ 1/4" drive ]
cross headed screw driver [ for removing the steering wheel bezel ]
Mulitmeter [ to check continuity ]
soldering iorn [ to fix broken wire ]

RUBBER BACK .... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bump :)
 

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Now place a Multimeter across these 2 wires & it should read approx 8 ohmns. If O/c or 1. the wiring is damaged.
What if mine reads 0,004 Ohm (so there is connection but certainly not 8 ohms) ? I got a spare that I know works but it's 100km away so would be nice to know if it is broken before making the drive :)
I have not "opened" the loom to see if the wires are shortcurcuting somewhere - would be silly if it is actually ok ;)
Starting the car the other day it cut out after about 5 sec and then immobilizer lamp came on on. Since then it have stayed on and it won't start at all.
 

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What if mine reads 0,004 Ohm (so there is connection but certainly not 8 ohms) ? I got a spare that I know works but it's 100km away so would be nice to know if it is broken before making the drive :)
I have not "opened" the loom to see if the wires are shortcurcuting somewhere - would be silly if it is actually ok ;)
Starting the car the other day it cut out after about 5 sec and then immobilizer lamp came on on. Since then it have stayed on and it won't start at all.
Sounds like a short circuit - either in the antenna or the wiring.
 

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quick Q if i replace the ecu and the antena then hold the key that goes with them but turn the car over with original bust key will it start?
 

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thanks guys :) got a v6 156 the other day that will not start was a bargain. a bloke is coming out tommorow to sort it YYYIIIIPPPPPPEEEEEE!!!!!
 

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Mine some time when the immo light came on, car will no starts. but if I put the key in it's socket and switch it on for a while. Switch it off again then, I can start my car with no problem.
:)
 

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I think these are in the right order....

Dreaded Immobiliser Error light:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/imclaren/immo/immobiliser-error.jpg

1. Remove the bezel from the bottom of the steering wheel

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/imclaren/immo/cover-on-off.jpg

now you can see the Ignition Barrel & Antenna:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/imclaren/immo/antenna.jpg

2. Remove the Cover between steering wheel & Door.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/imclaren/immo/ecu-location.jpg

Now move it IN & DOWN to get better access, see next picture

3. Open the 2 10mm bolts that hold the ECU in place:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/imclaren/immo/remove-fuse-panel.jpg

4. Push the ECU towards the front of the car & it should then be possible to drop it down:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/imclaren/immo/ecu.jpg

5. Remove the smaller white connector by squeezing the clip at the top of it towards inwards. The connector looks like:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/imclaren/immo/connector.jpg

Now place a Multimeter across these 2 wires & it should read approx 8 ohmns. If O/c or 1. the wiring is damaged.

I found it easier to remove the fusebox. All the plugs at the back are keyed, so they only fit in one socket.
 
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