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Dont know about you all, but I have been embarrassed by the thin and slippery standard wheel (even the later P2 onward one) over many years and always wanted to get a spare wheel I had "improved" and made more like a quality feel to it.

Oddly, I have struggled to get a local person who would do a retrim of a sterring wheel, all saying it is hard to do properly and usually not worth teh effort.

Well finally got it done and fitted this week....

Attached images of the wheel, its been recovered in two different leathers, one perforated and one normal plus stitched with a tan/beige thread to key into the rest of the interior.

Best improvement is that I had the rim "thickened" with added padding - not a huge amount but now has that quality grippy feel that fits so much nicer around the hand. :)

Big thumbsup to Petersenproject in Germany who did the work. Happy to follow my design and give samples etc. Excellent quality at £120 all in.
 

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Nice, a refurb steering wheel, matched to the gear stick and handbrake gaiters is on my long term list : )
 

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MarkyMark - that's brilliant. I reckon that's better quality than when it left the factory. Hopefully the stitching will settle down/smooth off over time. It's really quite inspiring as I notice my Spider's wheel is getting a bit shiny and smooth. I don't think it's too thin, though. I guess it depends on how thick you're used to getting your hand around :eek:

-Alex
 

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Very nice job!!:thumbs:The price is meant to be expensive or cheap?I am only asking cause when i had a fiat coupe i had done a retrimming on both the steering wheel and the gearstick and paid 120 euros.Very good quality, but only in leather.;)
 

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Also just did the 166 steering for my Spider, flatten the underside and thicken grip, reduce diameter to 360mm and new leather with red stitches :)
 

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Yes little extra for the knees is no luxury.

Haven't build in the steering yet, already build in a custom 156 radio to work with controls.
Got all the wiring but, do not have the wiring schedules from 166 yet...
 

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Yes little extra for the knees is no luxury.

Haven't build in the steering yet, already build in a custom 156 radio to work with controls.
Got all the wiring but, do not have the wiring schedules from 166 yet...
The bad news is the resistances seem to be completely non standard ( as far as these things are standard anyway! ). They are NOT the same as the 156, sorry to say.

On the 4 way connector from the switches, the red and black wire are +12v & earth for the LED illumination. The other two wires are the resistance ladder for the controls.

The resistances are ( where 'R' is Ohms ) :

Return symbol ( right side pull switch ) : 0R
Up : 391R (390)
Down : 862R (820)

- symbol : 1683R (1600)
+ symbol : 3203R (3300)
Menu symbol ( left side pull switch ) : 7123R (6800)

Figures not in brackets are real world measured values and will vary a bit between wheel samples. Figures in brackets are the likely preferred values from the E12 resistance series* ).

*E24 may be a better fit for one of the values.

Unless you count the rather naff infra-red universal adaptors, I know of no off-the-shelf interface for the 166 wheel. That's the other bad news.
 

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Took the wheel with me to Thailand got got it retrimmed somewhere in bangkok
Hang on; you went on holiday to Thailand......and took a steering wheel with you??
 

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Hmm this sounds diffecult... so it works some sort of decoder?

I got all complete cables and clockspring from the airbag til the 3color connecter of the radio.
The facelift 156 got the same cables and connecters.

It will work! i will demolition a new 166 if i must :D
 

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The big difference with the 156 is that it is a 3 wire system. The switches on each side of the steering wheel have a separate return wire to the head unit.

I'm not certain of the order but the Mute, Vol+ & Vol- have a common feed with the Src, Skip < & Skip >, but they return their signals with different wires ( so 3 wires in all ). The resistance values are ( so I've read ) 70R, 150R & 300R.

The 166 is only two wires on the resistance ladder.

There are a number of ways by which you can get it to work.

Unfortunately, I don't have time now to detail my thoughts, but I'll provide more details on it tomorrow.
 

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No hurry, love to hear the possibilities.
Please try to keep the English simply if possible.:)

I only want to have the vol + - en skip buttons.
 

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One of the problems you're going to have using a 156 head unit is the 3 wire control system I've already mentioned. The limitation here is the 166 wheel is a two wire system. It would be quite difficult to add a fifth wire to the clockspring.

One possible way around this is as follows :

The LED switch illumination uses a dedicated + and earth through the clockspring. What you may be able to do is earth the LEDs using the horn earth. The horn is earthed through the steering column so that should work. That would then allow you to use the LED earth wire as the third signal wire for the 156 head unit.

I stress that this is my thoughts on how you may be able to do it. I've not tried it.

In practice you would :

Remove the LED earth wire ( the black one ) from the 4 way connector connector and attach it to the steering wheel body. Rivet, tap & screw ...

There is a length one 4 way ribbon cable connecting the two switch units together. One of those ( I'm not certain which at this stage ) wires needs to be disconnected from the right side switch unit ( Up/Down & Return/Enter symbol ) and connected instead to the 4 way connector.

That should give you the 3 wires needed by the 156 head unit.

Unfortunately, it isn't the end to your problems. :(

( More coming with a diagram!!!! )
 
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