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Discussion Starter #1
My driver's door started to make that annoying click so a replacement was bought from E.B. spares and that came at a very good price, with stainless fasteners and really wasn't difficult to fit. Curious as to how the old one was worn I ground away and drilled one end of the pivot pin (upper on driver's door, lower on passenger's door) and it pushed out quite easily. The culprit part is a soft metal (lead alloy?) insert in the arm that flattens thus introducing play into the hinge. Once the insert was removed I used a vernier to measure the diameter of the hole in the arm and it is 8.93 mm and I found that an M6 rivnut is also 8.93 mm (length I used was 15 mm total) and was made suitable by taking a small amount off the rim to reduce its diameter, this enabled it to fit inside the recess on the lower part of the bracket. The bracket I drilled out using a new 8.9 mm HSS drill bit and after making a couple of thin rubber washers to fill the spaces between the sides of the arm and the bracket the whole lot was assembled with some white grease. As the rivnut was very slightly oversize it was pressed in using a bench vice. The rivnut was then given a slight squeeze to expand it and the job was done.

Photographs show the various parts.
 

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My driver's door started to make that annoying click so a replacement was bought from E.B. spares and that came at a very good price, with stainless fasteners and really wasn't difficult to fit. Curious as to how the old one was worn I ground away and drilled one end of the pivot pin (upper on driver's door, lower on passenger's door) and it pushed out quite easily. The culprit part is a soft metal (lead alloy?) insert in the arm that flattens thus introducing play into the hinge. Once the insert was removed I used a vernier to measure the diameter of the hole in the arm and it is 8.93 mm and I found that an M6 rivnut is also 8.93 mm (length I used was 15 mm total) and was made suitable by taking a small amount off the rim to reduce its diameter, this enabled it to fit inside the recess on the lower part of the bracket. The bracket I drilled out using a new 8.9 mm HSS drill bit and after making a couple of thin rubber washers to fill the spaces between the sides of the arm and the bracket the whole lot was assembled with some white grease. As the rivnut was very slightly oversize it was pressed in using a bench vice. The rivnut was then given a slight squeeze to expand it and the job was done.

Photographs show the various parts.


The alternative method is to buy a new one for a Fiat Doblo and use the arm from the old one in it. There is a thread on it it somewhere


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Discussion Starter #3
The alternative method is to buy a new one for a Fiat Doblo and use the arm from the old one in it. There is a thread on it it somewhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's ok if the arm is in good condition, but in my case it was slack at the bracket that attaches to the car.
 

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Great work and information thank you 👍

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 

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I have just bought a P3 GTV and my drivers check strap is worn at the pin where it attaches to the body.

So I assume, if you buy the Fiat Doblo 51772768 is not for me as you have to change the arm over and that is where my wear is, or can you split the anchor rollpin and this is where the wear is or is it always the hole in the arm that widens and introduces the play?

How much longer is the Doblo arm? will it cause the door to foul the A pillar and damage it?
 

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EB spares and TotallyAlfa have the right bit in stock for about 25 quid. The job only becomes difficult if the torx bolt on the door pillar shears.
 

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EB spares and TotallyAlfa have the right bit in stock for about 25 quid. The job only becomes difficult if the torx bolt on the door pillar shears.
Brilliant, thanks.

Just checked and the are £50-£60 inc vat and postage and the Doblo one is a tenner off 'the bay'

My tightness will simply not allow it!

I might just take it out and get our local engineering firm to drill it out and re pin it.

I saw on an other italian forum you can use dental floss (don't laugh) to pack/soften it. I did it once and it worked a treat on a Maserati.
 

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my drivers door has recently started to make a double-clunk noise when it's opened/closed. one of the bolts holding it to the door was loose, I tighten that but it didn't do much good and actually worked loose by the next day as well.

I know it sounds lazy but can it be dismantled or removed without stripping the door card off?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Short answer, no. The item is extracted from inside the door, however if you want to try to refurbish in situ you could try but access is very restricted. as far as the locating screws a touch of Locktite would help.
 

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If I recall correctly when I replaced the check strap i only removed the speaker , this allowed enough access to fit the part. No need to remove the door card.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That may well work for some too. But what about maintaining the integrity of the moisture membrane behind the door trim.
 

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I ended up buying a new one from Luffman for £54, common sense got the better of me and just bought it.
 

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Fitted it last night and yes, you can do it through the speaker albeit tight.

Works a treat and not clic clack.

Also fitted new wiper blades, fuel filler cap with a rubber retainer and fixed the electric aerial, the trick is with the aftermarket one to fix it to the OEM bracket but move it up and secure it with one bolt rather than two. Works a treat.

Next up, seat bolster foam repair, I have a passenger seat coming that I am hoping to rag the bolster foams from.

Irritatingly, I had the AC man gas her up and the compressor now kicks in but makes a h3ll of a racket so thats next on the list...
 

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Fitted it last night and yes, you can do it through the speaker albeit tight.

Works a treat and not clic clack.

Also fitted new wiper blades, fuel filler cap with a rubber retainer and fixed the electric aerial, the trick is with the aftermarket one to fix it to the OEM bracket but move it up and secure it with one bolt rather than two. Works a treat.

Next up, seat bolster foam repair, I have a passenger seat coming that I am hoping to rag the bolster foams from.

Irritatingly, I had the AC man gas her up and the compressor now kicks in but makes a h3ll of a racket so thats next on the list...
I will be very interested in how you get on with the "bolster swap" as I am considering the same.
 

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Fiat Doblo arm is about 6mm longer than the Alfa original.
So it fits straight on but are there any issues with the leading edge of the door hitting due to the wider opening from the additional 6mm length?
 

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I don't think so, the car isn't assembled enough at the moment to try this. My main worry is that it will open a lot more in the regular narrow car parking spaces and whack someone.
I have some 6mm ally from which I will make a spacer the same size as the rubber seal to fit inside the door and take up the slack.
 
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