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Discussion Starter #1
Afternoon

Had a replacement rad turn up yesterday which I installed this morning

I then put coolant in along with water into the header. Left the cap off and started the engine

Let it warm up and get to about 95 when the fans would kick in

Done this for half hour with the fans kicking in three times

Level of water in the header dropped about an inch, but that's all

Does this sound right?
 

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ok this is what i did not very scientific but it worked great


run engine with cap off to temperature then bled the system with the top left radiator tap then ran the heater on full for few min then bled the tap again then put expansion tank cap on and did the very same process over again, the heater is important because there is air in that system too possibly.
 

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When bleeding the radiator always have the heater on at full heat, make sure all the hoses feel hot. Take her for a spin and check the coolant again when you get back. Check it daily for a few days just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had the heater on full blast for about 20 mins but the temp would not rise enough with them on to kick the fans on

The hoses were very hot, squeezed them a bit too while engine running

Will give it a run tomorrow and top up where necessary
 

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Well I had the heaters on full blast from the start, have always found this to slow the temperature build up in a car. Once these were turned off it took 5 mins to reach temp for fans to kick in
 

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You don't need the heater on at full blast.. the fans running doesn't do anything for the process. You only need the heater dial turned to "Max" so that the heater valve (a simple sliding hatch that blanks the hot water inlet to the heater) is open, so that coolant can move through the matrix freely, pushing any air out.

To bleed the rad'.. Turn the heater dial to Max. Pour coolant sloooooowly into the header tank until the level reaches "Max".

If the radiatore has a bleed valve on it (usually a screw in the top left or right corner) then unscrew it progressively until air comes out. When coolant starts coming out, tighten it up. (Don't remove it completely otherwise it's tricky to insert it and tighten it up while coolant is piissing out all over the place... :D )

Top up the header to Max.. and that's that.

After you run around for a few miles and the beast has cooled down again, the level may have dropped a little (mid-way between marks maybe) but in theory, once you've reached "that's that" you don't need to do anything else.

Since it's your motor however, :D if I was you I would let the engine idle while I checked that the hoses were getting hot (tells you there's coolant in there and that it's being circulated). Just check that the radiator gets hot all tyhe way to the top (feel the fins but don't burn yourself and make sure you don't lose any fingers if the fan comes on). :D

On the other hand, the fans coming on is also a good sign (that they work at least.. ) although these are controlled by a sensor near the 'stat and if you have only air in the radiatore (it will feel much cooler at the tope than at the bottom) then the fans won't actually be cooling anything except your trapped air.

Massage the hoses to help everything along... but bleeding is simples.. otherwise there would be 1000 people at the factory bleeding cooling systems as cars come off the ramp. There aren't.. they just top the beast up with coolant and Roberto is your mother's brother.

Ralf S.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great advice everyone, thanks, will go out today to check it

Fantastic write up there Ralf
 
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