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I am planning a full audio upgrade for my GTV but need some help with regard to component selection and suppliers. What I plan to do is the following:

1. Replace the head unit with a single din touch screen Bluetooth unit possibly with R/F remote.
2. Source a compatible bezel. The facelift GTV has the facelift 156 radio installed so a bezel would be required.
3. Upgraded front speakers.
4. Upgraded rear speakers.
5. Subwoofer or 2. Nothing bigger than 2x10" subs because the boot is only that big.
6. Installation hardware and protection devices (Fuses, trip switches, cap) yes Paul we disagree here but we can discuss :thinking:
7. Amplifiers.
8. Signal processors if required.

This will be a slow build so there should be plenty of time for discussion. Any help with any of the items would be valued. I do have a list of "wants" but it would require lots of months between purchases because they are that expensive! :paperbag:
 

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Subscribed! I'm doing a budget DIY build for now but I'd like to see this develop and copy as far as possible. If Paul approves :biglaugh:.
 

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Could always fit good round 5-inch speakers in the front behind the 5x7 grilles, or fit a 5-inch round speaker into a custom 5x7 holder and fit that exposed.
A few guys (as the guy in that guide I posted) opt to fit 6.5" as that makes it easier to manufacture and mount a spacer / mounting bracket
 

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Ian, i've done this already & what i can tell you is replace the front & rear speakers, i fitted Rockford 5 x 7's in the front, 6.5's in the rear, built a box that houses an 8 inch sub just below the parcel shelf in the boot, then mounted an amp behind the tail lights, lost no space, a few guys heard my car, sounds great. I do need to upgrade my sub to a DVC though.
 

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your an engineer and you mentioned Cap.. i worry...

6 " front
good headunit (Kenwood)
leave the rear speakers alone (your ears face forward)
one 10 in a pressure loaded enclosure
No processor

k bye
 
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Ian, fit 6 or 6.5 inch fronts. It really is very easy.

All you need is to cut the one bracket point on the door card closest to the door hinges. Cut 6mm MDF rings as backing for the speaker so that you can clear the window. It also seals that front bottom recess nicely. You can always glue the cut-off door card piece back if you want to return the door card to the original state.
 

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the sub neither plays into the boot or into the cabin directly but bandpasses through ports to the rear shelf
 
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I am planning a full audio upgrade for my GTV but need some help with regard to component selection and suppliers. What I plan to do is the following:

1. Replace the head unit with a single din touch screen Bluetooth unit possibly with R/F remote.
Could I please buy your old head unit?
 

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Also subscribed, as I want to upgrade the sound in the GT, in the next while; after I've eliminated the wind noise because of the small tear in the door frame rubber. Car is a bit like being in a wind tunnel, so I have to crank the sound up. Door rubber seals are about R3k each :surprise:

I should be able to upgrade the GT's sound by mainly replacing the components (hopefully)
 

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I am planning a full audio upgrade for my GTV but need some help with regard to component selection and suppliers. What I plan to do is the following:

1. Replace the head unit with a single din touch screen Bluetooth unit possibly with R/F remote.
2. Source a compatible bezel. The facelift GTV has the facelift 156 radio installed so a bezel would be required.
3. Upgraded front speakers.
4. Upgraded rear speakers.
5. Subwoofer or 2. Nothing bigger than 2x10" subs because the boot is only that big.
6. Installation hardware and protection devices (Fuses, trip switches, cap) yes Paul we disagree here but we can discuss :thinking:
7. Amplifiers.
8. Signal processors if required.

This will be a slow build so there should be plenty of time for discussion. Any help with any of the items would be valued. I do have a list of "wants" but it would require lots of months between purchases because they are that expensive! :paperbag:
Hi Ian

First - a disclaimer - audio taste is highly subjective. but here are a few suggestions which you probably already know -

Decide what you want from your system, because the solutions will be different - Audiophile sound will be different to Clear and Loud - surprisingly, audiophile need not be expensive to sound really good.

My own experience is that good audio sound requires -

* a decent signal producer - iow a good head unit
* front speakers offering a good frequency range (which almost invariably requires at least good front splits with separate external cross overs),
* mids - correctly positioned for your car - does the GTV have space in the passenger side panels
* 'tight base' (2 x 10 inch enclosed sub has worked best for me - with a separate sub control [via the amp]). Tried band pass (their frequency ranges are too specific to cope with a range of music) and vented single 12" sub (not nearly as tight) as a closed 2 x 10").
* proper speaker cabling (gauge and impedance to suit are critical)
* a good amp - again, outside the usual brand names - Rockford, JL etc, there is some good stuff that we do not regularly hear of but the audio folks know and trust and these days they are small and fit in tight (but ventilated spaces).
* installation - think carefully about whether you want to do this yourself - specialists are just that because they know their $hit - the problem is finding one you can work with and trust not to rip you another ring and, will work sensitively with your baby (not break panels or panel clips etc)

I have never needed to use a capacitor but then I have never needed ear splitting volume or bass. Also, its annoying not to be able to use your steering wheel controls, so if your GTV has these and this matters to you, you may need an interface for this.

The Alfa's factory install (like most cars other than high end models with very very expensive audio systems) is mostly crap in all respects making the already compromised in car audio dynamics way worse. Fixing the above makes a HUGE difference.

My experiences are with a 155 and 156 GTA. I have had aftermarket systems in them for years and tried various things. They both work well in my opinion and have been trouble free for years - and I mean - trouble free. I put this down to the installer - Shafiek Modack, he is a quiet, geeky, perfectionist, one man show who operates out of the Diep River (Cape Town) office park - Car Hi Fi Centre - 0832310454, [email protected]. I have used him for many years. He has been around for a long time there and has worked on some very high end cars and knows Alfa's. It helps that he is also a general audio installer and fixer (home theatre etc) - he knows his ohms and frequencies. Even just chatting to him may be helpful to your build. Good luck!:thumbup
 

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Also subscribed, as I want to upgrade the sound in the GT, in the next while; after I've eliminated the wind noise because of the small tear in the door frame rubber. Car is a bit like being in a wind tunnel, so I have to crank the sound up. Door rubber seals are about R3k each :surprise:

I should be able to upgrade the GT's sound by mainly replacing the components (hopefully)
Hi Martin. In the ICE lounge - there is guy that have done plenty good write ups on his work in his GT - his handle name is shiny_car.

I posted a link in Steven's 147 speaker thread - read through this:
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/ice-...-to-fit-aftermarket-speakers.html#post5322452

Do a quick search on what he has done - very informative :thumbup:
 

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Shafiek Modack, he is a quiet, geeky, perfectionist, one man show who operates out of the Diep River (Cape Town) office park - Car Hi Fi Centre - 0832310454, [email protected]. I have used him for many years. He has been around for a long time there and has worked on some very high end cars and knows Alfa's. It helps that he is also a general audio installer and fixer (home theatre etc) - he knows his ohms and frequencies. Even just chatting to him may be helpful to your build. Good luck!:thumbup
I never knew he was till working, used to deal quite a bit with him when i still did the car audio for AudioVision. Good chap to chat to and a well of knowledge.
 

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and Shafik is doing Gladen and Mosconi.. just saying.. lol


here are some really old installs in my opel astra and ford focus
 

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Discussion Starter #18
your an engineer and you mentioned Cap.. i worry...

6 " front
good headunit (Kenwood)
leave the rear speakers alone (your ears face forward)
one 10 in a pressure loaded enclosure
No processor

k bye
I'll take your advice but as for the cap:
1. It's not for bass enhancement but to protect something much more important: my alternator. A cap discharges in a few miliseconds. But charges back up in afew seconds. It builds a "bridge" between the alternator and amps and therefore doesn't require the alternatorto run above design spec. Saving diodes, windings and electronics from popping.
2. It will actually limit sound system output with regard to juice requirements so your system is more stable between the sound system and the car's electronics. It does this between charge and recharge amd the proof is in the fact that you don't get dimming headlights and instruments dropping to zero readings when the bass drops.
3. Even on modern digital canbus systems which my GTV lacks, it still proves it's worth by rather protecting the system before your sound system install rather than just protecting and enhancing amplifiers and bass notes.

That is my answer. Basically power factor enhancement rather than improving sound system performance. If my alternator requires an 80 amp output instead of 160 amps on a 90 amp alternator them it is good enough and the alternator will last.

Lastly: If I wanted more juice for highamp output I would have fitted a much larger battery with a much larger alternator :smoker:

But thanks for the input :smash:
 

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yup and in 6 momnnths to a year, it will be stuffed and do more harm than good. put in an optima yellowtop and get klaar.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Ian, i've done this already & what i can tell you is replace the front & rear speakers, i fitted Rockford 5 x 7's in the front, 6.5's in the rear, built a box that houses an 8 inch sub just below the parcel shelf in the boot, then mounted an amp behind the tail lights, lost no space, a few guys heard my car, sounds great. I do need to upgrade my sub to a DVC though.
Hey Avi thanks for this. I was thinking of RF front and rear but I have 2X10" dvc subs brand new at home, Pioneer units. Would like to install them or else sell off to someone needing some serious bass.

I had a 2x10" subwoofer enclosure in my 159i that ran off a 1000W rms amp and the thunder was real. I basically ran them to oblivion and would like to fit the new subs in asimilar bandpass type enclosure vented through the rear parcel shelf or behind the rear seats. A 6" vent per sub should be enough. But they hit hard and my days of rolling bass are long gone.

I have a 7 channel parametric equaliser (analogue) and would like to incorporate this into the system. The head unit I prefer also has some trick parametric equalisation and stock graphic equaliser onboard.
 
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